1.6ers Owners (Mitsi/Proton)

Wira Aeroback 1.6 (M)
-Year 1994 for sale.
-Standard engine
-Lancer head

RM20k (neg)
 
Last edited:
Would like to ask all u 1.6 owners here, whether changing to 2 inch exhaust piping suitable for 4g92 sohc??
 
2 diff exhaust specialist shop telling me 2 diff story.
One saying that must change to 2 inch piping as i m using 1.6 inch piping is not big enough.
Then another shop told me that 1.6inch is enough for my car. And 2 inch will be too big.

As for ur information i m using a S-flow muffler and 2 centre bullet wit 1.6 inch piping right now. Hope to hear some advise from u experienced modders

Thanks
 
Bro..your car is Manual or auto??...if auto ..this setting i think should be good for your car...coz auto need more back pressure..but if your car are manual..i think that piping not enough big...coz you use 2 bullet with S-flow...this only good respone on low end...but when high rpm area.....air cannot go out 'lancar'....

collect me if i'm wrong...:)
 
Mine is auto,
What i dunno is wether the air cannot go out smoothly or not enough back pressure now...But when going up hill susah, its like reving quite high and not moving as quick.
 
pifecto14 said:
2 diff exhaust specialist shop telling me 2 diff story.
One saying that must change to 2 inch piping as i m using 1.6 inch piping is not big enough.
Then another shop told me that 1.6inch is enough for my car. And 2 inch will be too big.

As for ur information i m using a S-flow muffler and 2 centre bullet wit 1.6 inch piping right now. Hope to hear some advise from u experienced modders

Thanks

hi,

Firstly, how stock is your engine? Are you using a sports manifold (extractor)?
On my car i use a hotbits muffler, 2 inch piping, a single bullet in the center and a twin exit muffler (2 inch entry ) However, i have alot of stuff in the engine (pnp, pulley, timing etc etc etc), k&n and a fuel regulator to compensate for any fueling issues. mine is an auto.

Try 1.8inches and get rid of one bullet as the s-bend muffler already slows down the flow alot. What you've heard about an auto needing lots of backpressure is actually crap. What you need is a properly set up engine that gives you lots of torque AND for the engine to make torque, a nice free flowing exhaust is always the first step.

regards
 
Target Design said:
all sifu here please give some comments...thanks
now my wira aeroback using 4G13p Siemens ECU 2003 january model...now i planing to change engine to mitsubishi 4G91 DOCH M/T (RM3500) or Mitsubishi 4G92 SOCH A/T (RM2000)......which engine are more good for my car??
and any different between Mitsubishi 4G92 SOCH with Proton 4G92 SOCH???why halfcut shop sell this two engine with different price...and Proton more expensive than Mitsubishi...different RM500...
izzit posible i change engine to mitsubishi 4G92 SOCH A/T and use back my 1.3 M/T gearbox??
thanks!!!!


1. Between the 1.5 twincam engine and the 1.6 Single cam- go for the 1.6 looking at the price you are offered. I personally drive the 1.6 SOHC. In stock form the 1.5 slightly faster. But when its done up etc.etc. the 100cc make a difference. I drove a 1.5 Twincam mod to the limit too. Must drive very hard to get power out. Compared to my car still slower. so bite me.:confused_smile:

2. I chalked a victory lately over a B16A with my 1.6SOHC car. Its the skill not the power.i.e. shift at the right time if your car is within a +/- 10 HP bracket from the other guy's car
Another experience i Have : 1.5 SOHC 12 Valver 4G15 car benchmark session. I cannot keep up (same body as in satrias) up to 3rd gear at 140 Km/h I need about 150-160 Km/H only then i can gain on the car and overtake. Go figure 20-30 HP advantage is not much in the real world. My third gear is tops out at 160Km/H, but this 1.5 3rd gear only 130 Km/H and yet the 1.5 in 4th and I am in 3rd - the fellow in front of me. :mouth_closed:

My car engiine is modified to the brim, whereas the 1.5 only have the exhaust and filter done to it.:_:

3. You can use your 1.3 gearbox. The cable type you have have a better feel, but possible go change the flywheel to a 8.5" one (The 1.8 cars and 1.6 Mivec use one). The foreman must machine the gearbox housing a bit for you and the ratios are much nicer.

4. Got money put EVO III . end of story no nedd to modify anymore.:cry_smile:

Good luck buddy, Whatever you choose, I hope it works for you. Want to test give me PM ;)
 
but that 4G92 SOCH halfcut mileage already run 77xxx Km...but just sell RM2k with A/T gearbox...izzit worth if i install to my car?

HAHA..anyway..thanks for your comments...
 
Last edited:
Target Design said:
but that 4G92 SOCH halfcut mileage already run 77xxx Km...but just sell RM2k with A/T gearbox...izzit worth if i install to my car?

HAHA..anyway..thanks for your comments...

hi,

PLEASE ask yourself what is the purpose for you to get the engine (and gearbox) first. if:

1. you want to have a nice ample powered city driving car. ie. one for traffic jams then change the engine with the auto gearbox. relaxing to use with the auto in kl traffic. For example, my 1.6 auto with strut braces, fender bars, koni adjustable coil over shocks, p.u. bushes, 16in alloys on 205/45 tires has a hard ride. in fact i'd say when the car was new it already had a jiggly ride due to the short stroke of the suspension (compared to newer cars, the wira/satria multilink which while is a stable setup, has not enuff suspension travel - look at the suspension of the current batch of toyota altis or civics). I think the auto box makes my wira a less stressfull drive around kl.

2. you want to play around abit and get full performance, use the engine with the 1.3 gearbox. sell the autobox to a kedai potong or whatever. There are lots of performance options for this.

if i am not mistaken, the gear ratios for mitsubishi based proton cars are pretty similiar. 4.3 final drive for 1.3,1.5, 1.6 and even 1.8. 4.007 for all the autos - means 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 perdana. However the 3spd auto is around 3.600 final drive. MIVEC gearboxes are around 4.5 or 4.7 (cant remember which) which gives it good acceleration - as coupled with a very high rev engine, it still can pull high top speeds (unlike the non mivec engines). therefore, if you use a mivec final drive, on a non-mivec engine, chances are you get good acceleration, but a low top speed. as for example, a 1.6 mivec redlines at around 8k rpm, your 1.6 sohc redlines at 6.5k rpm, rev limiter cuts at 7k rpm...your top speed is down already coz the engine cant pull as high as it needs to achieve the top speed of a 1.6 mivec. unless you like traffic light racing or sprinting then this is the option for you.
 
if i really take that halfcut engine...sure i will sell out that Auto gearbox and using back my 1.3 gearbox.....manual no problem for me...i just worry about that engine only coz mileage already run 77xxxKm.....mileage high also depends with other halfcut...
 
riggy said:
hi,

Try 1.8inches and get rid of one bullet as the s-bend muffler already slows down the flow alot. What you've heard about an auto needing lots of backpressure is actually crap. What you need is a properly set up engine that gives you lots of torque AND for the engine to make torque, a nice free flowing exhaust is always the first step.

regards

Changed spark plugs, adjustable fuel regulator, plan to change K&N air filter soon.
Where can i get 1.8inch?? As i went to both exhaust shops they only have 1.6 and 2.0 inch thick pipings. Any suggestion to where can i get it fixed.
 
guys, i have a question to ask .... what u think if this combination....

1.8 block
1.6 sohc head
mivec piston

Better torque ?
 
pifecto14 said:
Changed spark plugs, adjustable fuel regulator, plan to change K&N air filter soon.
Where can i get 1.8inch?? As i went to both exhaust shops they only have 1.6 and 2.0 inch thick pipings. Any suggestion to where can i get it fixed.

since you got the regulator, use 2 inch pipe , run 45psi on the regulator and when you change to K&N, dont use open pod, use the replacement element only. You get better torque (which u need for an auto) with this.

extrememech : yes... you get better torque from the bigger cc, and higher compression.
 
riggy said:
since you got the regulator, use 2 inch pipe , run 45psi on the regulator and when you change to K&N, dont use open pod, use the replacement element only. You get better torque (which u need for an auto) with this.

compression.

U mean drop in filters for K&N ??
45psi ?? i running at 38-40psi currently. Doesn't running on too high will lose throttle response??
 
pifecto14 said:
U mean drop in filters for K&N ??
45psi ?? i running at 38-40psi currently. Doesn't running on too high will lose throttle response??


yes,,drop in replacement filter

. i think stock pressure is around 36psi, you only went up slightly, furthermore with a 2in exhaust set up, i think you should run slightly higher than what youre running now. Throttle response? if the car feels like its going, then whats the actual issue? the only difference if you increase or decrease pressure is that either the engine pings if its too low pressure or slightly draggy if the pressure's too high. (usally this means its too rich when its draggy) best is try the higher pressure i suggested then work your way down.

regards
 

Similar threads

Posts refresh every 5 minutes




Search

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience