4AGE 20v BT semput and died

[levin818]

FP that control by relay is for safety purpose, ie: the ECU will shut down the FP when accident happening in order to avoid fire.

---------- Post added at 09:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

If i were the wire man i will at least use the crimping tools to clamp the join.

 

[shem_lexluger]

Yes Wong I agree.

I am ready to rewire the FP relay after tracing all five wires under the relay socket. Three wires have been disconnected by the mech which are the main 12v power source wire (blk-red), the power source when cranking (blk) and the wire from the ECU FC pin (grn-red). Took me days to trace these wires. The fuel pump power wire (blu-blk) and engine ground wire (wht-blk) are still intact.

I did a test run by temporary connecting all the wires I'm about to rewire later and the FP relay worked fine. I also disconnected the mech shortcut FP wiring of course. Will rewire n solder properly tomorrow.

 

[levin818]

Huh... sometimes DIY is better than sending our car to the workshop.

 

[shem_lexluger]

Just a personal note to say the car has been running fine for the past one year since this DIY fix was made and there's no mech visits other than normal oil servicing.

 

[KeMa]

I also facing the same problem. The problem occur after i clock 1,000km upon overhauled the car. when first occur the car just would suddenly off engine after it reaches it's operating temp. Diagnose it shows an error code 22 and 14 which represent ignition problem and water temperature sensor. Tried to borrow few of the water temp sensor but the problem still persist. Then i start changing;

1. Ignition Coil
after one week still occur

2. Distributor (it seems the distributor is already in bad condition)
still does not resolve the problem

3. Change to a new Blacktop 5 speed fuel pump
after one week happen again..this time..completely couldn't start!

Then diagnose again, shows faulty code..so then open up the ECU...there are two spots that burn out at the IC Board. Then i change to a 2nd hand ECU.

after a piece of mind for 300km..then the car starts jerking after i past 2,500rpm..DAMN!!! Last night i try to reset the ECU. During the reset process, the car is fine...like rev from (30m/h ~60km/h) , (30m/h ~70km/h), (30m/h ~80km/h), (30m/h ~100km/h) ..rev up to 7k rpm.
After that, i did my normal driving style..again the car starts jerking and semput after 2,500rpm..

Have discuss this with levin818...so now the possible reason could be the O2 sensor or the petrol filter..

Will also keep you guys update on this. Hope we can have a fruitful discussion and i could solve my problem

 

[KeMa]

OK just now change the fuel filter and also check the O2 sensor. O2 sensor was fine.But still the same problem persist...erratic rpm...the car still jerking... i really don't know what else to do...


Somebody please help..i still suspect the ECU problem. And one more thing, when diagnose..there is an error code. The error code is 42

Error code 42 = Vehicle Speed Sensor

 

[levin818]

KeMa, how do you check your O2 sensor?

 

[levin818]

Try this

 

[KeMa]

levin818

i refer to your post :

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/toyota/322013-checking-your-o2-sensor.html

and it seems my O2 sensor is fine. There are around 8-10times of the multimeter's needle fluctuates

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

levin818

i refer to your post :

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/toyota/322013-checking-your-o2-sensor.html

and it seems my O2 sensor is fine. There are around 8-10times of the multimeter's needle fluctuates

OK just now change the fuel filter and also check the O2 sensor. O2 sensor was fine.But still the same problem persist...erratic rpm...the car still jerking... i really don't know what else to do...


Somebody please help..i still suspect the ECU problem. And one more thing, when diagnose..there is an error code. The error code is 42

Error code 42 = Vehicle Speed Sensor

O2 sensor problem would NOT make engine dies/semput....it only make your car running rich....

i suspect it was the FICD or the Idling control servo or perhaps the ecu capacitor leaks again....

but first try swap the crank sensor...

 

[KeMa]

Last Saturday(10 Jan 2015) i change the ECU. Since than i have not face any engine jerking anymore. The timing were also very stable. I thought my rainy days are over than suddenly while i was driving for work this morning the car suddenly stall...It could not start! i try many times. Oh My God...i am just right in the middle of the traffic jam..during rush hour.. This is so sucks!

What i did was...quickly open the ECU, and reconnect back the pin..then the car could start as if nothing happen..stable timing no jerking. So drive to the side of the road and again engine could not start.

So this is the ECU. is a 2nd hand ECU...warranty for 1 week. And when i disconnect the pin, i find the ECU kinda hot. Is it a harness problem that causes the ECU to shot

I am pretty sure is the ECU problem. what would guys think?

 

[levin818]

Code 14 - "No IGF signal"
mean either the Igniter faulty or the ECU faulty
For your situation, pretty sure its the ECU. If not, you will duplicate the same problem when plug in your old ECU.

 

[KeMa]

Ok..i have change the ECU...so now the engine running ok. Only thing there seems to be like pinking/knocking sound now. I have adjust the timing at the distributor but still no different