DIY Voltage Stabilizer

servo

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Just cruise on the net and found this...for sharing and discussion..... :D

DIY for that little extra torque on the low end
Origin of the idea: Japan
Purpose of the mod: Use extra capacitors to simulate a fast reacting battery under start and underload condition
Tools used: Snip, piler, Electric Drill, soldering iron


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Colt357TW/4126532a.jpg
parts, capacitors of varies size, 105°C and 16V highly recommended

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Colt357TW/eacd8afb.jpg
put the capacitors on the bare board and line them up

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Colt357TW/75add614.jpg
use soldering iron to connect them together....geez, that look like Godzilla's work

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Colt357TW/1faaeded.jpg
more soldering

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Colt357TW/6b6380f3.jpg
hmmm, its gonna be a larger than a ciggy pack, i better clean up some room under my hood

100_0004.jpg

insolate the inside of the container so my crappy soldering work wont short things out

100_0003.jpg

more insolation, I use two color of RTV to seperate the polar on the wiring, and hopefully I wont have to mod this again

100_0002.jpg

this is how it look like on the underside san box

100_0005.jpg

drill two holes on the box wall and squeeze wire thru, we are almost ready to test it

100_0006.jpg

again use RTV or silicone to seal the box watertight. After this is done, we can try it on the car by connect the red to positive then black to negative( will causes a couple small sparks as these caps charge, it is normal)

I just test it by used 4th gear to go from 70 to 170km/hr with AC on high 1 hour ago, the engine doesnt give the shake as it previously did. Works better Sard Sweeper with much lower overall cost.
 
19168.jpg



http://www.ptrs.com.tw/sard/products/elec/Sweeper.JPG
it supposes do the same thing as SARD sweeper, after all, I opened a SARD sweeper and mod this one


the electricity generate from automotive alternator has a frequency like black curve on figure 1,
with these capacitors helping out we can make the current less ripple and more or lese come to green line
figure 2 is the resistance formula for capacitor(s)
figure 3 is probably the most effecient way for capacitor to share and stablizing the ripples

some users of HKS version report loss power when engine reving over 6000rpm, so I went to test my setup earlier tonight, however I didn't get to go that fast when i spoted flashing lights around next bend on the highway

a4601481.jpg


I went overboard and triple the caps used on my setup over SARD one, so here are the caps spec.

4700uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
3900uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
3300uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
2200uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
1000uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)

wiring diagram? look above on figure 3, just connect all negative of cap on the board with soldering iron, then connect all positive side, try to draw it so the middle part of both path are on the side and easily attach a foot of 10AWG(I used 8AWG) cable on the middle and to the side of casing

black wire to negative post on the battery and red wire connect to positive post on the battery. Be advise engine brake would be a little fade once this device installed, but you should notice engine is running a lot smoother and more powerful on start and/or AC/audio is on.

I will be testing on 4AT and NCVT models later this week
 
Question.. how to connect them together - series or parallel? and did it have any specific sequence to line them up because of the different capacitor rate?
 
sobs...where to geth the materials..and the diagram for the baard
 
really nice work.... but if you could draw out the schematic diagram than i will understand.... thanks mate!!!
 
man how much these cost u huh?? any wirering diagram ... i wana try la...
 
Gee... Look at those soldering <_< . It will be much easier if it's all connected parallelly. But how to arrange all the caps? From big to small or randomly?
 
bought those caps for around RM70bucks pcb board and wires... however it didn't work when i tested with a computer 12V DC power supply.. it only managed to go 1.2V instead of a steady 12V.. i wonder why.. who wants those caps i offer at RM30.. 2pcs 4700microfarads, 8pcs 3900mf, 6pcs 2200mf, hows that?
 
how many volt? y so xpensive?

i'm interested if the price is lower...

4700uf with 16volt i can get rm1.2 only each.
 
105ºC capacitors?? i dunno la.. thats how much i pay.. thats how much i'm letting it go.. anyway.. how to be sure all the caps are wired parallel??
 
Originally posted by ezwong2002@Dec 3 2004, 21:51
bought those caps for around RM70bucks pcb board and wires... however it didn't work when i tested with a computer 12V DC power supply.. it only managed to go 1.2V instead of a steady 12V.. i wonder why.. who wants those caps i offer at RM30.. 2pcs 4700microfarads, 8pcs 3900mf, 6pcs 2200mf, hows that?
Did u connect as the diagram below ?
 
What's the diff between the small and big capacitors? I mean, for example, is there a diff between using 2 1000uF and 1 2000 uF capacitors?

Will there be a big spark when the capacitor bank's connected to the batt for the 1st time??
 
hai MR.servo..........
the wiring connection still not clear.........ok.......fixed it with parallel connection as per fig.3.....but which caps go first ....etc etc......could u please specify on the wiriing diagram connection.... thnxxxxx mr.servo......I would like ti try this DIY.....
 
read the first post carefully, tis is not his own diy, he found it online n share to us, stop complaining not clear or watlor.....:)
 
can't find the 105 c capasitor...
jus got 85 c capasitor....
the capasitor can stand the heat or not?
 
cannn.........

juz put it as far from the engine as posible, btw, do keep the connection wire short enof for u to adjust.....dun made long long like 1 meterlor...
 
Yesterday i Went to Pasar road and purchase 28pcs 4700mf 16v 85c cap.
Total cost less than 60 bucks all in.
After intensive soldering for 3 hours, finally put the product to the test.
after 10 min of driving, power increases from standing start up to the red line, engine felt smoother, head lights brighter and stable idling.
Before 12.9v; After 13.8v.

Very Gooood :lol: :lol:
 

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