Durability of the RB25DET

[khoyos]

didnt do post mortem. just kept the blown engine in the workshop n sold as junk. but since its well tuned with conservative map, either oiling issues or mechanic thrashed the car right after installation of aftermarket turbo, before i got the chance to have the car tuned... i suspect the latter...

 

[Blood Red]

khoyos...saman itu mechanic!!!!

 

[DRFT_240sx]

thats terrible and u still went back to the same mechanic?

 

[khoyos]

thats terrible and u still went back to the same mechanic?

i never sent my cars there before and after the turbo replacement project cos i have my own regular mechanic. it was a one time deal due to some barter trade dealing that includes installing the turbokit for rb25 into my car...

 

[farizio]

Farizio, I think I know which car you're talking about. :D

i know, saw him on azmir's blog (and your blog too) haha

 

[cosmicgate]

1)These are very hard to crack, as a matter of fact i've not seen or heard anyones crack before.(If you are using caplang stuff that's a complete different story). I am not sure which rb25 of a skyline u are running though but please do keep in mind atmospheric ventic bovs such as the HKS type will cause your car to stall on change gears and can be quite dangerous(air vent inside engine interferes with ur AFM).

2)incorrectly gapped plugs in my opinion plays minimum effect to the engines in my opinion. IT IS WHAT HEAT RANGE u run that is important. With the weather in Malaysia its a nono to run 6, 7 is okay for stock. For slightly mod or heavy modded, 8 or 9 is your choice. You need those to avoid foulding your plugs everytime and to prevent over backfiring, which is nuts. *Imagine PUFFF PUFFF PUFFF PUFFFF PUFFFF* frm your car even at idle!

3)There are quite a few reasons to spoil ur coil packs. One of it is age, and the most common one is over boosting. It is well known that RB engines are heat generators, alot of ppl buy cut- through ornament plates or just leave out the ornament plate to cool off the coil packs. This is very popular in colder countries where rain is not that frequent. In malaysia however, alot of ppl avoid that becase they are scared that water might get inside the coils. It is very common to have cracked coils, a nice investment(which offer no performance upgrade) is aftermarket coils which as u expected is expensive, cheap solution is super-glue or tap with industrial strenghth tapes over the sides of the coil.

4)The HICAS screwing part is very subjective. As you mentioned with a bracked for R33, i would assume the MOST common cause of this is aftermarket ECU like the PFC which is very well known for the "HICAS-LIT-UP" problem. This first few batch generations of PFC are well known for this screw ups i am not entirely sure of the "xxxx enginered ones"(can't remember whats the newer PFC called" I don't have a rb25 so im nt sure if this will cause long term manage though.

5)This is not true. The amount the ECU retards the timing depends on exactly what existing timing it has on the engine. Alot of ppl run 0.86 bar at stock turbo without any problem from this. I have seen ppl hit boost limit on 1 bar on stock S1 rb25 because the S1 version has stronger ceramic turbine as compared to nylon ones of the later generation. But of course the limit is still 0.8 bar to be safe. Not only it is not recommended, its is not recommended at all because its not worth the power gain, unless you want to hear the different grunt sound RB makes at 0.45 bar compard to 0.8 bar.

6)cheap fix is oil blowby tank. How expensive can it be?

7)This is not entirely true. Although i've seen cases like this but it is nothing to worried about unless you are paranoid about the "ting ting ting" sound. It is just the turbo cooling itself off if you wanan know. If the studs are falling off do u think ur exhaust still holds for that long?

8)You will hear your injector ticks(depending on your injectors,wheather aftermarket or not).This is very disctinctive from a RB25 but its quite faint, however alot of ppl mistaken injector ticks from valve lifter ticking. Valve lifter ticks for a reason = dirty oil or something bad when compressing oil pass through the lifters.

9)refering to my number 5) ceramic turbos are there for a reason. Its ceramic because it spins faster because of weight and therefore spools faster however there is a downside to it,because of how ceramic are(go google if u dunno what ceramic is), its fragile and can only withold a certain threshold of speed and temperature before giving up entirely as compared to the steel ones. so boosting at 0.95 bar is an invitation to hell to your engine(although i've said ive seen ppl running 1 bar proven but not completely recommended at all!)If you're lucky when it explodes, the turbine exists the exhaust housing, if you're unlucky it might hit the engine. You don't wanna imagine what happens next.

 

[CSx8213x]

Under5ive at USJ alot experience in RB engine and standalone ecu ... you can give them a try ....
0123739222 Alan ... if you want .. u can arrange with him to check out others RB25 stock internal done 300++hp .. Mine one still stock internal too ..