EG clubs/owner etc

[mADmAN]

you can't use front, endlinks are different. To use front dc2 stabilizer, you need to use front dc2 subframe. probably can mod, but never tried.

wat mean u stabilizer? if u mean strut bar then direct plug n play...

but if u mean ARB...u sure about this? coz when i bought my hatch it already had a DC2-R front ARB installed... not sure wat subframe (I later changed it to the DC2-R subframe due to a steering rack leak)...not sure if theyre the same subframe before and after but before i only had 1.0 turn to full lock... after changed, 1.5 turns

---------- Post added at 03:28 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:23 AM ----------

Oh ya, just want to check with you guys does anyone using rear camber kit by HardRace? what is the marketprice now? any user review from here ? I found one seller selling RM250,if this is the reasonable price I am going to buy, coz my rear left hand side tyre is showing me smth like this

yeah the price is thereabouts... buy...theyre pretty decent as a brand...

Will try to search out the price from dc2r stabilizer bar front and back...and maybe a replica ASR brace as well :wavey::wavey:

if u planning on the DC2-R ARB... then theres no more "maybe" in regards to the ASR brace...unless u wanna risk tearing ur subframe

Since my car can be drive for few month to years , I think is time to go for K-series...
BTW need some opinions as well, if I want to make a K conversation
Which is the best economic way to do so?
eg: Buy a K20ar halfcut OR Engine lantai K20ar , replace and search remaining parts ?

some shops has a K series conversion package..seeing how u dont really need halfcut since u wont be using the dashboard or mebbe even the brakes...i suggest checking out some shops that can do the conversion....coz even if u buy the halfcut ull need to get the mounts, header, n i think a few other stuff as well..

u could also check out pentagon and take a peek at their K-Tuned K-swap package...im sure ull drool...

 

[shiroitenshi]

wat mean u stabilizer? if u mean strut bar then direct plug n play...

but if u mean ARB...u sure about this? coz when i bought my hatch it already had a DC2-R front ARB installed... not sure wat subframe (I later changed it to the DC2-R subframe due to a steering rack leak)...not sure if theyre the same subframe before and after but before i only had 1.0 turn to full lock... after changed, 1.5 turns

The turning rate is related to your steering rack, not the subframe. The caster angle determines how much the wheels turn outwards. I remember that the endlinks on EG ori is different than DC2s. And I was told it wouldn't fit stock EG subframe. I guess it's possible to bolt on?

Damn, now I shall go try put on an front DC2 ARB on an EG subframe to test if it fits.

Anyway, of course la strut bar plug and play, I don't think people call strut bars, stabilizer bars anymore.. or do they? Stabilizer bars are another term for ARB, since they work to 'stabilize' the car. (same can be said with suspension, but oh well, another of those 'Malaysian terms' thing, I guess)

 

[mADmAN]

lol....ur actually the first person i know who uses stabilizer bar as ARB...heh heh heh... usually the ones i hear mean strut bars..

another term for ARB is also sway bars.

 

[shiroitenshi]

lol....ur actually the first person i know who uses stabilizer bar as ARB...heh heh heh... usually the ones i hear mean strut bars..

another term for ARB is also sway bars.

How the heck does strut bars stabilize the car? LOL. I guess that's the quirks of Malaysian terms.
Took me quite a while to understand long time ago that bar = valve in Malaysia. Grind valves, Grindbar -WTF?

 

[mADmAN]

WAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.... thats the first ive heard of grindbar... mebbe coz of the level of "england" some people have so they dont pronounce valve properly...lol

 

[shiroitenshi]

Anyway, just had some free time, so taking apart my old b16a for a rebuild. been stripping down the engine from 1am since I can't sleep. bearing on journal number one can see copper already. Guess my b16a was almost due for rebuild already, lucky I didn't run it to oblivion yet. :rolleyes:

I just can't help remember all the fun I had while abusing that b16a. Revving it until 9K, putting random oil when it started consuming oil.. I'm so tempted to get an EF/CRX and plonk it in. Unlike the B20B, I'm quite reckless with the b16a because it's just so damn lasting.

Anyway, all done for tonight (this morning?)
going to measure ring clearance tommorow and then send to machine shop for honing or reboring if required, depending on how much ring clearance I get.

 

[mADmAN]

good opportunity to put in some B16B pistons too...n yeah i gotta agree... B20 abit more manja... B16A on the other hand...u can just rev the shit out of it... though it may be torqueless... but theyre hell alot of fun...

anyway.... do post up pix of the rebuild....

 

[shiroitenshi]

Now I remember why I stopped visiting ZTH, website always down/slow. >_>

I thought just need to rehone, but looks like need to rebore as well. 320K+ kilometers definitely wears out an engine.


Here's the piston 1 crank cap bearing, all lower bearings all show near similar wear top not so much, but piston 1 has the worst, can see the copper layer already. So I have to get new bearings and check for clearance, new 81.25 pistons, then only rebore.

 

[peterj]

Very urgent matter all sifu especially those had MSD or other ignition booster done on their civic... i need a MSD badly cause now stock distributor cant handle my boost and fuel ignition....even with a good cable..... everytime when i just wanna stick on my seat when the full boost kick in and also vtec kick in at about 6k rpm.... poping sound all the way .... air fuel tuning done nicely 11. something : 1 when full boost.. when poping no sign of jerking or pinging,just the car feel like not heavy accelerate anymore... so now suspecting weak ignition at high rpm since now boosted with extra air fuel.... i got two choices, MSD or AEM coil on plug kit.. but i now looking for MSD 1st since i think no need going too high end , MSD should be enough... i wanna ask all sifu what MSD product i need to get to have constant,good and stronger ignition then stock when high rev? since the MSD got tons of products, fren ask me to get the coil is enough but even coils, it got tons of categories also.....and of course i wanna know the price range and the mod need to be done..... i just hope it wont mess with my tuning, just increase the ignition efficiency is enough.... ALL SIFU PLS HELP!! A Vtec turbo cant full throttle is a Tragedy

---------- Post added at 10:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:26 PM ----------

another symptom of weak ignition and running rich.... plug is black not reddish...

 

[mADmAN]

uiks??? u tebo already?? stock internals or ???

anyway....

http://www.mudah.my/MSD+ignition+ss+blaster+coil+set+for+b+series+hond-15116422.htm

n if can spend more money...

http://www.mudah.my/MSD+Ignition+Coil+6AL-14096606.htm



forget about the AEM.. those are super expensive...and if not mistaken, u need to use those with the AEM ECU...if ur on hondata u may opt to get the hondata CPR and then the coils can source locally.

 

[peterj]

uiks??? u tebo already?? stock internals or ???

anyway....

http://www.mudah.my/MSD+ignition+ss+blaster+coil+set+for+b+series+hond-15116422.htm

n if can spend more money...

http://www.mudah.my/MSD+Ignition+Coil+6AL-14096606.htm



forget about the AEM.. those are super expensive...and if not mistaken, u need to use those with the AEM ECU...if ur on hondata u may opt to get the hondata CPR and then the coils can source locally.

yea, stock internal.... follow what the top fuel turbokit spec since it customize for the b16a....using a block guard and 2mm head gasket for the moment,valve already cant hit piston..lol..... hks gt3037s, f con v pro, 504cc skyline injector etc...... forged internal upgrade will be in future when high boost, now max target 1.0-1.2 bar only...but only running 0.7 or 0.8 for the moment since can rev high caused by the weak ignition at high rev......... so the blaster coil set will sure already produce far more ignition power and constant ignition then stock when high rpm??

 

[shiroitenshi]

Very urgent matter all sifu especially those had MSD or other ignition booster done on their civic... i need a MSD badly cause now stock distributor cant handle my boost and fuel ignition....even with a good cable..... everytime when i just wanna stick on my seat when the full boost kick in and also vtec kick in at about 6k rpm.... poping sound all the way .... air fuel tuning done nicely 11. something : 1 when full boost.. when poping no sign of jerking or pinging,just the car feel like not heavy accelerate anymore... so now suspecting weak ignition at high rpm since now boosted with extra air fuel.... i got two choices, MSD or AEM coil on plug kit.. but i now looking for MSD 1st since i think no need going too high end , MSD should be enough... i wanna ask all sifu what MSD product i need to get to have constant,good and stronger ignition then stock when high rev? since the MSD got tons of products, fren ask me to get the coil is enough but even coils, it got tons of categories also.....and of course i wanna know the price range and the mod need to be done..... i just hope it wont mess with my tuning, just increase the ignition efficiency is enough.... ALL SIFU PLS HELP!! A Vtec turbo cant full throttle is a Tragedy

---------- Post added at 10:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:26 PM ----------

another symptom of weak ignition and running rich.... plug is black not reddish...

got another option, run external coil, retaining honda's original igniter.
http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx?taxid=34&taxid2=1720
This assumes your igniter is not at fault for causing the misfiring

Of course the best solution is running MSD digital ignition system. Eliminate the igniter and run external coil.

Also curious. what AR turbine you are running?

P.S.
Hondata coil on plug kit only works on USDM ECU, JDM ecu no spare output for it.
It's not a good choice as it still outputs single ignition signal. the CPR just splits it into four. LLLAAAAMMEEE..

AEM coil on plug system requires AEM EMS, you can use the camshaft trigger unit for motec or other aftermarket management that has four ignition outputs, but not for hondata.

so, back to MSD. :P

Eh, FCON VPRO?
http://www.vidtechslotmachines.com/fcon/pdf2602.pdf

According to this, you just need to wire in the camshaft trigger (i assume the crank input is configurable in the software to accept cam trigger input) from OEM distributor and connect coil on plug to the outputs on the FCON V Pro. It can drive 6 coil on plugs.

Which version are you running?

ECU already got feature, why considering additional electronics?

 

[mADmAN]

gotta agree.....since u already have the feature in ur ECU... kasi hentam COP one shot la..no need to bother with MSD anymore

 

[peterj]

mine is silver casing, hks web said it is version 2.0... the hardness look same like inside the pdf files... 1 long, middle one short and the right 1 is moderate length...... problem is nobody can tune it.... that is the problem... so i just consider the MSD.... problem is where to get it wnd what to get... if just like the link given by sifu madman enough already or not? just the cap ,external coil and of course will get the plug wires...will that enough?.. or must also get that another pieces of msd ignition booster ecu together?

---------- Post added at 05:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------

forgot to add on... the gt3037s i get is the ar60... that to be discontinued by hks soon...... bit laggy, the the pull is sufficient ..

 

[shiroitenshi]

mine is silver casing, hks web said it is version 2.0... the hardness look same like inside the pdf files... 1 long, middle one short and the right 1 is moderate length...... problem is nobody can tune it.... that is the problem... so i just consider the MSD.... problem is where to get it wnd what to get... if just like the link given by sifu madman enough already or not? just the cap ,external coil and of course will get the plug wires...will that enough?.. or must also get that another pieces of msd ignition booster ecu together?

---------- Post added at 05:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------

forgot to add on... the gt3037s i get is the ar60... that to be discontinued by hks soon...... bit laggy, the the pull is sufficient ..

AR 60 on a B16? Daily driven? Fuyoh.

Ooookay... To understand what you need and why, need to understand basic ignition system of OEM honda. We have 3 main components, the ECU, the igniter, and coil.

ECU send signal -> igniter -> coil

Simply put, if either one of those system act up, then automatically you will have misfiring. the MSD digital ignition replaces the igniter unit, external coil replaces the internal coil unit. Hope that is simplified enough to understand.

So if you have igniter issues causing misfiring, change igniter. If coil, then change coil.

I think got v pro tuner in Sunway area. ask around. The only other guy I know running vpro got his car tuned by Keiichi from Jun Auto when they came down to Malaysia.

 

[mADmAN]

if theres no tuner in ur area then i really think u should get rid of it and get something which u can find tuners for...

unless u wanna learn to tune it urself of course

 

[peterj]

me at kuching sarawak

---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:30 PM ----------

and one obvious problem..when the poping kick in..... the rpm tend to be crazy, bouncing ... is the ignitor or the coil caused this??

 

[shiroitenshi]

me at kuching sarawak

---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:30 PM ----------

and one obvious problem..when the poping kick in..... the rpm tend to be crazy, bouncing ... is the ignitor or the coil caused this??

Guess where rpm get it's signal from?

Hint: Coil only has two wires going in, for igniter signal and ground. No outputs.

And thus, you have found a possible cause for your problem.
You should have said it earlier. Simpler troubleshooting.

 

[peterj]

hurm, currently using fren's distributor , dunno the condition of the ignitor, seems like tomorow gonna change back to my own distributor with ignitor changed 2 weeks ago(h.cut ignitor...) ... what if the problem still exist?

 

[shiroitenshi]

hurm, currently using fren's distributor , dunno the condition of the ignitor, seems like tomorow gonna change back to my own distributor with ignitor changed 2 weeks ago(h.cut ignitor...) ... what if the problem still exist?

RPM crazy and bouncing is usually igniter issue. You never try the solution yet, you worry the problem still exist. Aiyoh!

Somemore solution no need money spent one. :hmmmm:

If gatal want to spend anyway, MSD 6AL with Blastercoil 2.