EG clubs/owner etc

[shiroitenshi]

I did ask about K series into EG...cost around 2xk,but was thinking B16A head + B20B block,dont know which build to go =(
Going to convert my D16A6 engine beginning of next year

Conversation price B16A- RM8k++ , then B20B add another 4k++

Headache,sometimes I feel it...is it worth to spend so much,is it still worth to convert? but 1 thing I have to say,my EG is not going to sell off,it stays with us for 20years....is a hard thing to let go,but current engine really giving a lot of weird sound and engine become weaker and weaker...

I still need to spend a lot more on it,a lot of parts never been replace for last 20years
1) Aircon bearing
2) Radiator rusting
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
4) Exhaust bocor
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger >

Current engine RM0.28/km....does anyone know what is the fuel comsumption for B16+B20 build and K20ar?

Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).

Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.

If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.

A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS

Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------

All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.

Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger > That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.

 

[mADmAN]

i think if ur changing the engine mainly coz its giving problems and if ur not seriously after power... then theres no need for the K20...

instead of the B20 hybrid.. why not look into B18C GSR. my mechanic in sri muda told me his package is 9.5k siap pasang... but dunno wats included la... but at least u get the torque of a 1.8 instead of the torqueless B16.

another option if ur not after power would be a simple B20B halfcut..non hybrid/non VTEC.. as in direct plonk in.. then u get the 2.0 torque.

i would go the GSR route and jalan...easy... best all rounder compromise imho... good power.. good torque.. not too expensive..

the balance money u have for the mods.. restore/repair all the stuff thats needed in ur car.

 

[pwhyze]

Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).

Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.

If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.

A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS

Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------

All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.

Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger > That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.

Just wondering...the rubber seals for the windows, did you get them brand new?

 

[peterj]

i think if ur changing the engine mainly coz its giving problems and if ur not seriously after power... then theres no need for the K20...

instead of the B20 hybrid.. why not look into B18C GSR. my mechanic in sri muda told me his package is 9.5k siap pasang... but dunno wats included la... but at least u get the torque of a 1.8 instead of the torqueless B16.

another option if ur not after power would be a simple B20B halfcut..non hybrid/non VTEC.. as in direct plonk in.. then u get the 2.0 torque.

i would go the GSR route and jalan...easy... best all rounder compromise imho... good power.. good torque.. not too expensive..

the balance money u have for the mods.. restore/repair all the stuff thats needed in ur car.

that phrase sometimes does hurt us b16a users.. but when talk a bout talk, i remembered one of ur pic u put.....then i transform my car ... then now u know why when u tell me 4.785, i silent silent

 

[shiroitenshi]

Just wondering...the rubber seals for the windows, did you get them brand new?

Well, of course I got new ones? All from halfcut newest is from 95 models, and how long ago is that?

Now my power windows move up smoothly like it's a new car. Not sure it's worth the 200+ pricetag of the rubber run-channels though.

 

[pwhyze]

Really? Where did you buy them?

 

[mADmAN]

that phrase sometimes does hurt us b16a users.. but when talk a bout talk, i remembered one of ur pic u put.....then i transform my car ... then now u know why when u tell me 4.785, i silent silent

hahahahaha.....thats coming from an ex-B16A user... thats why kekekek

Really? Where did you buy them?

u can get them from LHS Jalan Ipoh or Exceptional in Glenmarie...

search around the forum.. ive posted their contacts and details a couple of times...

i even bought my passenger side front windscreen moulding from exceptional before... RM180 for that piece iirc.

 

[shiroitenshi]

Really? Where did you buy them?

Exceptional. LHS is nearer if you're in KL.

 

[peterj]

Well, of course I got new ones? All from halfcut newest is from 95 models, and how long ago is that?

Now my power windows move up smoothly like it's a new car. Not sure it's worth the 200+ pricetag of the rubber run-channels though.

mine also, the driver side window keep "derail"

---------- Post added at 10:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:49 PM ----------

hahahahaha.....thats coming from an ex-B16A user... thats why kekekek

i heard another more fancy word... torqueless wonder for the b16a

 

[shiroitenshi]

mine also, the driver side window keep "derail"

Derail is fixable, if your rubber run channel still soft, just need to loosen the rail screw and realign. Body shop can do it for you if you not diy type.

One more cause of derail is that one of the plastic wheels in your scissor linkage for windows probably worn out.
I changed because mine hardened already. Can't complain, the doors were from 93' EG9. I got quoted such a good price for them, I swapped all four doors to EG9. The only plus I got was the cromax windows and the thicker side impact bar. Love the solid thud of EG9 door closing.

i heard another more fancy word... torqueless wonder for the b16a

Well, when you want high hp from small cc, have to sacrifice torque due to rod ratio. The boosted torques are fun, but I dislike the throttle lag.

 

[peterj]

mine driver side, the rubber when out of shape dy, harden mayby.... there even 1 spot of the rubber crack and pop out, when my window almost gone top and closed, the poped out parts made it derail.. damn

 

[shiroitenshi]

mine driver side, the rubber when out of shape dy, harden mayby.... there even 1 spot of the rubber crack and pop out, when my window almost gone top and closed, the poped out parts made it derail.. damn

Time to change then, and decide if RM200+ each window is worth doing. LOL

 

[MiNiFans]

Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).

Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.

If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.

A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS

Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------

All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.

Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger > That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.

Bro shiroitenshi,thanks a lot for the guide and info
Hehe,erm so far all my rubbers are in good condition~

As for the bushings, I replaced for numbers of set for the front part , ended up send to TungChun they recommended use Genuine bushing....and I really feel the different between Genuine and Aftermarket, Aftermarket bit soft not reliable...it last me 4-6 months
However,Genuine last me more than 6months now and I still feel hard and stable when come to hard corner...

As for my exhaust,it has been welded for 2-3 times I dont think im going to weld it to cover up the hole again....really drives me crazy the sound >< irritating sometimes

What's Im going to upgrade is the engine,stabilizer bar(I feel floating when high speed around 170-180 on uneven road,any recommend? ),change the rear drum brake to disc brake....
My mechanic said that just buy a halfcut EG9 settle most of the problem Im facing now...but dont know roughly how much I have to spend for whole thing :rolleyes::rolleyes:



Bro Madman,

Erm,honest speaking I am serious about the power
Have to admit I like speeding ONLY when no many road users on the road,always cant control my right foot well

Now I am thinking transplant B16A halfcut everything into my car than go for JPJ inspection,after that only I start my B20B project....

OR transplant K20AR 1 shot =(

Hard to decide

 

[shiroitenshi]

Bro shiroitenshi,thanks a lot for the guide and info
Hehe,erm so far all my rubbers are in good condition~

As for the bushings, I replaced for numbers of set for the front part , ended up send to TungChun they recommended use Genuine bushing....and I really feel the different between Genuine and Aftermarket, Aftermarket bit soft not reliable...it last me 4-6 months
However,Genuine last me more than 6months now and I still feel hard and stable when come to hard corner...

As for my exhaust,it has been welded for 2-3 times I dont think im going to weld it to cover up the hole again....really drives me crazy the sound >< irritating sometimes

What's Im going to upgrade is the engine,stabilizer bar(I feel floating when high speed around 170-180 on uneven road,any recommend? ),change the rear drum brake to disc brake....
My mechanic said that just buy a halfcut EG9 settle most of the problem Im facing now...but dont know roughly how much I have to spend for whole thing :rolleyes::rolleyes:

I also started with b16a long time ago. It's torqueless, but it's fun to drive. For daily driving, FC not that good if you keep maintaining 3-4K for the usable torque. 1-3K rpm, the torque will lose out to wira 1.6. One thing about B16A, well maintained, it is seriously lasting even after abuse. I've put 200000+Kms on that engine without overhaul. Right now it's in my storeroom, still with 81mm bore. Lol.

For handling,
EK9 shocks is the cheapest nice handling shocks, relatively comfy too. Need to mod the rear lower arms, but with aftermarket lower arms/Singapore civic LCA. Very nice fit for B16A, but when you start going with higher hp, it's too soft. I run Omni monotubes now. 10kg Fr/8kgs Rr.

Brakes wise, I've run EK9 knuckles and trailing arms, but after the swap, I have offset issues which limit my wheel choices. Go for Prelude BB brakes conversion for better braking.

Strut bar makes chassis stiffer, but for me doesn't improve handling that much. Rear anti roll/stabilizer bar is one of the best upgrades for handling IMO, it's relatively cheap to get a DC2 anti roll bar, and if can't find the u brackets to use thicker bar on your car, can use fake subframe brace. I use original ASR, but my friend uses the fake one. I asked him to rebore a bigger hole on the subframe brace at the LCA hole so he can reuse the original honda LCA bolts. I don't trust that fake taiwanese bolts. I'm using the ori 10.1 ASR bolts atm, but I'm going to do the same with mine when I replace the LCA next month. I trust honda bolts more. LOL. I'm using 24mm for performance, but the 22mm one is good enough for most people.

I got an old bordermax304 in the storeroom that's not leaking, and modded for EG sedan. Too noisy now for me since I got older, LOL. Also I'm running 2.5" exhaust now.

Bushings OEM genuine is one of the best. I also tried hardrace, and they're quite good as well.

Right now I'm only running pillowballs on my trailing and hard poly on my upper arms front and rear. Lower arms still rubber, contemplating spericals now. Goodbye comfort, LOL.

Bro Madman,

Erm,honest speaking I am serious about the power
Have to admit I like speeding ONLY when no many road users on the road,always cant control my right foot well

Now I am thinking transplant B16A halfcut everything into my car than go for JPJ inspection,after that only I start my B20B project....

OR transplant K20AR 1 shot =(

Hard to decide

K20AR definitely, if your engine still in good condition, fix up everything for handling and keep saving up, so when the time comes to plonk in a powerful engine, you won't find your car handling lacking.

 

[Civic eh5]

tq for information... i plan to spend 20k for my eg... including new painting and new fabric for interior..with this money i can only go for b18cr...which colour better for eg9 with white rim?..im thinking of subaru blue

 

[shiroitenshi]

tq for information... i plan to spend 20k for my eg... including new painting and new fabric for interior..with this money i can only go for b18cr...which colour better for eg9 with white rim?..im thinking of subaru blue

EG with white rim.. Silver is out. I had mine in silver with EK9 wheels. For me white rims only stand out when the car is black colour.

I'm now with OEM EG9 colour black with metallic silver(or gray?) on the door trims.
paint shop says it's not black, I just said I don't care, OEM EG9 that looks black then. ROFL.

I'm not a fan of blue, since it makes the car look old, but if it's your taste, then go for it.

I don't really care for paint codes, so best wait for some other forummers to respond.

 

[MiNiFans]

I also started with b16a long time ago. It's torqueless, but it's fun to drive. For daily driving, FC not that good if you keep maintaining 3-4K for the usable torque. 1-3K rpm, the torque will lose out to wira 1.6. One thing about B16A, well maintained, it is seriously lasting even after abuse. I've put 200000+Kms on that engine without overhaul. Right now it's in my storeroom, still with 81mm bore. Lol.

For handling,
EK9 shocks is the cheapest nice handling shocks, relatively comfy too. Need to mod the rear lower arms, but with aftermarket lower arms/Singapore civic LCA. Very nice fit for B16A, but when you start going with higher hp, it's too soft. I run Omni monotubes now. 10kg Fr/8kgs Rr.

Brakes wise, I've run EK9 knuckles and trailing arms, but after the swap, I have offset issues which limit my wheel choices. Go for Prelude BB brakes conversion for better braking.

Strut bar makes chassis stiffer, but for me doesn't improve handling that much. Rear anti roll/stabilizer bar is one of the best upgrades for handling IMO, it's relatively cheap to get a DC2 anti roll bar, and if can't find the u brackets to use thicker bar on your car, can use fake subframe brace. I use original ASR, but my friend uses the fake one. I asked him to rebore a bigger hole on the subframe brace at the LCA hole so he can reuse the original honda LCA bolts. I don't trust that fake taiwanese bolts. I'm using the ori 10.1 ASR bolts atm, but I'm going to do the same with mine when I replace the LCA next month. I trust honda bolts more. LOL. I'm using 24mm for performance, but the 22mm one is good enough for most people.

I got an old bordermax304 in the storeroom that's not leaking, and modded for EG sedan. Too noisy now for me since I got older, LOL. Also I'm running 2.5" exhaust now.

Bushings OEM genuine is one of the best. I also tried hardrace, and they're quite good as well.

Right now I'm only running pillowballs on my trailing and hard poly on my upper arms front and rear. Lower arms still rubber, contemplating spericals now. Goodbye comfort, LOL.



K20AR definitely, if your engine still in good condition, fix up everything for handling and keep saving up, so when the time comes to plonk in a powerful engine, you won't find your car handling lacking.

My current D16 engine 220k mileage ++ gosh underpower+ fuel comsumption is like huhu....0.3x sen/km crazy

As for the suspension Im using BC V1 for almost 1 year so far so good,comfy 8/10,hard drive 8/10...overall ok la haha

Oh ya, just want to check with you guys does anyone using rear camber kit by HardRace? what is the marketprice now? any user review from here ? I found one seller selling RM250,if this is the reasonable price I am going to buy, coz my rear left hand side tyre is showing me smth like this

" / |" lolx

Will try to search out the price from dc2r stabilizer bar front and back...and maybe a replica ASR brace as well :wavey::wavey:

Since my car can be drive for few month to years , I think is time to go for K-series...
BTW need some opinions as well, if I want to make a K conversation
Which is the best economic way to do so?
eg: Buy a K20ar halfcut OR Engine lantai K20ar , replace and search remaining parts ?

 

[shiroitenshi]

you can't use front, endlinks are different. To use front dc2 stabilizer, you need to use front dc2 subframe. probably can mod, but never tried.

enjin lantai is cheaper, but cannot start, so can't identify problems. Anyway, halfcut also never mind. My friend bought halfcut, but only took engine and harness. The rest the shop took back, like dashboard, brakes, etc.

Camber kit dunno, because I'm on skunk2 from day one. I've been using them for like 4-5 years, before hardrace became popular.

 

[MiNiFans]

you can't use front, endlinks are different. To use front dc2 stabilizer, you need to use front dc2 subframe. probably can mod, but never tried.

enjin lantai is cheaper, but cannot start, so can't identify problems. Anyway, halfcut also never mind. My friend bought halfcut, but only took engine and harness. The rest the shop took back, like dashboard, brakes, etc.

Camber kit dunno, because I'm on skunk2 from day one. I've been using them for like 4-5 years, before hardrace became popular.

Ok noted.

Erm from what I think,I dont think most of the shop wanna to take back the leftover item...Even though they want to take they wont reduce from the total fee,

Let's wait for others forumer do they have any opinion on hardrace rear camber kit or not =(

 

[shiroitenshi]

Ok noted.

Erm from what I think,I dont think most of the shop wanna to take back the leftover item...Even though they want to take they wont reduce from the total fee,

Let's wait for others forumer do they have any opinion on hardrace rear camber kit or not =(

Hmm strange, maybe my friend is a regular. He got discount since he didn't take the dashboard and other stuff. Still more expensive than enjin lantai though, about 3K more, but he's satisfied because he wanted to hear the engine run.