FPR Tuning for CAMPRO S4PH

[drexchan]

Absolutely abnormal. 10km/l is more like it.

Take note that, a properly tuned-up engine should be more efficient and not supposed to be any less fuel economic if it's driven exactly the same way before it's touched.

It's either there's something wrong with the car, or the driver is willingly trading more fuel for more enjoyment. :D

 

[huakenny]

seems lke this problem only happened to NA car?

installed few units to turbo engine....black edition...all perfect

 

[BoxCarRacer]

seems lke this problem only happened to NA car?

installed few units to turbo engine....black edition...all perfect

I guess so...so far...

 

[ericfey7]

Setting higher fuel pressure then required thinking it will give you more power is a big mistake! it will cause your injectors to fail pre-maturely, overwork your ECU, fuel pressure solenoid (if any), fuel pump and fuel lines to maintain close loop stoich air fuel ratio.

An exception to this is when you have upgraded the engine and you are running slightly leaner than you are suppose to. therefore by uprating the fuel pressure slightly to overcome this problem. You will still not get the optimum air fuel ratio with just fuel pressure regulator alone.

this is just my 2cents... there is nothing wrong with installing an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator when it looked good in your engine bay. Happy chinese new year n gong xi fa cai!

agree your point,bro.

 

[xechnologi]

if im going to let say put in piggyback or standalone...is the current fpr tuning should be alter...or just remain the same....right now..my pressure around 32bar....any comment?

current setup:
standard bottom+head s4ph 1.6 gen2
standard filter element+standard airbox
custom extractor with standard exhaust setup
auto gearbox
custom light crank pulley
fpr sard
standard plug and plug cable
pivot voltage stabilizer+ground cable
works cam pulley adjustable

 

[drexchan]

if im going to let say put in piggyback or standalone...is the current fpr tuning should be alter...or just remain the same....right now..my pressure around 32bar....any comment?

current setup:
standard bottom+head s4ph 1.6 gen2
standard filter element+standard airbox
custom extractor with standard exhaust setup
auto gearbox
custom light crank pulley
fpr sard
standard plug and plug cable
pivot voltage stabilizer+ground cable
works cam pulley adjustable

Standard pressure is 3.5bar (WOT), your 32bar is either a typo, or 32psi (which is way too low).

 

[foofis]

if im going to let say put in piggyback or standalone...is the current fpr tuning should be alter...or just remain the same....right now..my pressure around 32bar....any comment?

current setup:
standard bottom+head s4ph 1.6 gen2
standard filter element+standard airbox
custom extractor with standard exhaust setup
auto gearbox
custom light crank pulley
fpr sard
standard plug and plug cable
pivot voltage stabilizer+ground cable
works cam pulley adjustable

wth happen to your powerband ? :hmmmm: irregullar power peaks n drops ?

---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

In my opinion any upgrades which may effect air fuel ratio a retune is required to maximize the modification done. Such as oversized pistons, more powerful fuel pump and performance camshafts.

Air filter & exhaust mod usually makes the air fuel ratio leaner in my experience because most of the fuel are combusted with more air.

yes, to be frank installing fuel regulator on a stock, according to my experience it yeilded nothing to the engine performance. unless your piston is resized, highcams, ported head, changed to bigger fuel pump, then your stock ecu readings unable to give you the correct a/f ratio to your already modded engine. fuel regulator is doing part of the job to give you the correct fuel delivery, and piggyback is the one control your A/F ratio, and your modified parts inside your engine is the key that give your more power and respond. i personally had done full stage 2 mods on my engine, and sharing based on my experience. for campro, basic upgrade should be aftermarket fuel pumps + fuel regulator = results (better acceleration n smoother powerband) tomei and sard are proven fuel regulators, you guys should try them. another thing is, u can contact me if you really interested in drag, i intro you guys a ecu-rechipper, remove revcut n freely rev to 8000rpm n it's gonna be fun, and this is the part your seriously need fuel regulator to do the job as well a piggyback. your 2nd and 3rd gear will really rulez no matter pickup or top speed

 

[drexchan]

wth happen to your powerband ? :hmmmm: irregullar power peaks n drops?

That looks liek an AT. The chart shows reading from the first 3 speeds.

The spikes are cause by gear change.

 

[foofis]

oic, thanks..... never done or seen an automatic on dyno b4

 

[chrococos]

the 3.2bar is set based on the chart....as u can see the af ratio is at +-12....the setting is quite rich below 2000rpm but become more optimum when reach above 4000rpm.in my opinion if ur set the fpr to high reading for example 4.0bar above the possibilities to going lean at high rpm is high.hence the gasket will kabooommmm..moreover, my sifu said the af line will become more constant line when upgrade to management....any others who have the af ratio graft pls...share with me...thanks

 

[drexchan]

why are you multiplying the unit?

You can't have 40 bars of pressure on the fueling system...adui... 4.0 bars is more like it.

Or, are you talking about psi? But 40psi is too low for Campro.

Don't make us confuse can or not? :P

note:
bar = kilogram per square centimeter
psi = pound per square inch

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:51 PM ----------

Oh yes, if A/F ratio is high, it's LEAN. A/F ratio low, it's rich... adui..

 

[chrococos]

its bar...sorry forgot to put the dot between 4 0:) its 4.0bar its lean...more power at bottom but lean on high rpm...sorry guys....

 

[xtremeleo]

wait up.. cheeft, ur fc better then boxcarracer. increasing the fuel pressure out of the range the ecu can adjust does increase the FC, its fundamental

---------- Post added at 10:59 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:53 AM ----------

looking at the graph, d engine produces around 96hp, impressive jugek. its a shame dat d campro is a fuel guzzler, or else ive gotten meself a waja campro dah

---------- Post added at 11:05 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:59 AM ----------

oh, and ive never faced dat whistling problem before, not in a charged engine or an na.. maybe it only happens on d campro jer?

i remember reading dat if u adjust it, after sum time the whistle will be back, its like a haunting, lol. maybe its because the ecu has adjusted itself wit the new setting and tune back to normal. the siemens ecu is notoriously smart (for its own good, grr...) as i remember correctly, it will counter any modification done, by crazily looping itself. bloody smart i tell ya

reflash is the way to go imo, for permanent result

 

[tebalik]

hi..just wanna share my experience

i change FR to adjustable one...n also hav bad incident...

The day before last hari raya,i install FPR brand WORKS,black type...those whistling problem came after a few hours...go back to the shop,they repair it,unplug n service a little then install again.gone home...the whistling problem came again...same adjusment from the shop,stop whistling problem...thn head to home.but,the whistling problem came again..so,go back to the shop..replace the FPR,same type but new item......finish install..drive home,but whistling problem still there.

Lastly...return to that shop...replace FPR with tomei brand..all whistling problem gone,set it to 3.5 bar...

p/s;- i'm using gen2 auto,year 2006....mod= 17inch rims+Iridium spark plug+FPR+install n setting SAFC...others all in standard......feels great in respons for almost 4 years old car...

 

[Tuanku.J]

hi..just wanna share my experience

i change FR to adjustable one...n also hav bad incident...

The day before last hari raya,i install FPR brand WORKS,black type...those whistling problem came after a few hours...go back to the shop,they repair it,unplug n service a little then install again.gone home...the whistling problem came again...same adjusment from the shop,stop whistling problem...thn head to home.but,the whistling problem came again..so,go back to the shop..replace the FPR,same type but new item......finish install..drive home,but whistling problem still there.

Lastly...return to that shop...replace FPR with tomei brand..all whistling problem gone,set it to 3.5 bar...

p/s;- i'm using gen2 auto,year 2006....mod= 17inch rims+Iridium spark plug+FPR+install n setting SAFC...others all in standard......feels great in respons for almost 4 years old car...

hi, u are using SAFC..i heard that after some time, the ecu will reset back to standard because of close loop of the ecu..any comment?..anyway.where didi u install it?...

 

[Waiora_ProTuner]

wow...3 months old topic...oil price gone up 2 times already...

 

[drexchan]

We already know how to reduce the occurring of the whistling problem. It may still be noisy a little during cold start but that's about all.

Whistling during drive has been eliminated.

 

[kcng]

kena this whistling jor
:(

 

[drexchan]

kena this whistling jor
:(

we have a fix.

 

[BoxCarRacer]

Drex,

Mine only came out if there's too much heat in the engine bay e.g: super hot afternoon drive.

Apart from that, its fuctioning as per normal.

kcng,

You also kena?