How I blew by RB26DETT....please share

[frootloops]

any idea how much is the Defi-Link Display or new Defi Advance ZD?hehehe

 

[gobiz]

Just to share: How not to blow RB26. I blast my RB26 hard...when i say hard, i really mean damn hard...
since 2005, engine is very healthy, compression spot on... the secret is:

1) frequent oil/filter change - i don't follow the 5k intervals, it depends on how rough it was driven at any point of time

2) Never over-rev (use ignition cut instead of factory fuel cut = safer)

3) Prep/warm the oil fully before a hard drive (above 80deg)

4) Aware of Knocks/Pings

4) Aware of oil temp

5) Aware of oil press

6) EGT....that's it, tht's the secret. HONESTLY

actually, its a strong engine if built well...

GREAT ADVICE!!!

Oil temp gauge is a must.

Oil pressure sensor is usually inaccurate, needs replacing to indicate true oil pressure.

Oil cooler (AND relocation kit) would be great too. The filter is very HARD TO REACH.

I was being paranoid and thought I had spun some bearings driving my car back from Port Kelang.
But didn't make sense since my oil is fresh, oil pressure is good, didn't rev past 6500rpm etc.

This morning I rechecked my engine, I'm think the rattling sound is piston slap because at cold start it's there, with a bit of vibration felt on the cam covers. However when the car is warm, it's damn smooth with no rattles heard.

 

[V-Spec]

Gobiz, glad to hear it's all good. So she will be in hibernation till you're back then. :)

 

[Temujin]

Gobiz, glad to hear it's all good. So she will be in hibernation till you're back then. :)

Gobiz won't be gone that long.. It'll be just a short hibernation I reckon..

 

[gobiz]

yep, hopefully just short hibernation....so sad can't attend the gathering, wanted to drool over all the insane machines.....

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Yes im totally agree with Rakzakzsa...and also the important thing to take care is the Oil engine. Last time im using Torco oil but I realize that the oil is thin and become lesser when regularly drive. So I do research what is the suitable oil for the GTR engine. And lots of GTR owner said that they are using castrol egde. So I did try the said oil and it’s proved. Till now im using the said oil...but recently I quite grotesque why my oil pressure is low. When I warm up the engine, supposedly the oil pressure indicator show at the middle of the meter but now one bar fall. Any idea or advise? Do your car have a same reading?

Bro, is hard to tell that is a problem or not since we all know the stock GTR oil pressure sensor always doggy one. As long as when u driving, keep your eye on your oil press meter, when accelerate above 4k or higher rpm, your oil pressure should not less than middle(4 bar).

---------- Post added at 01:45 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:19 AM ----------

Sorry for off topic here. I hvt blow my RB26DETT(touch wood) but i would like to know usual price for rebuild is around how much? I think i should start saving $ for that, currently running 42k+ km(i bet should be more since stock dash meter is swap to NismoMeter). Let say i replace with Tomei parts), just agak-agak figure how much? And what parts normal need to be change.

 

[bangkai_jk]

Not mean to digging out an out thread but are those oil pressure sensor on r34 are similar to r33,32? I assume those info in r34 are more accurate on r34?

 

[Temujin]

Not mean to digging out an out thread but are those oil pressure sensor on r34 are similar to r33,32? I assume those info in r34 are more accurate on r34?

get an aftermarket one lah kawtim. the defi triple dash like kyle's would be awesome.

 

[gobiz2]

Not mean to digging out an out thread but are those oil pressure sensor on r34 are similar to r33,32? I assume those info in r34 are more accurate on r34?

Ppl just usually buy Z32 one. Cheaper I heard.

I think I also want to check using mechanical oil pressure gauge.

My engine starts fine and idles fine, can't hear any knocking. It's just the oil pressure now on the lowish side. Maybe I check later today.

 

[bangkai_jk]

L

get an aftermarket one lah kawtim. the defi triple dash like kyle's would be awesome.

Actually I have the defi already lol

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Don't drive like me. Confirm save your engine.

 

[gobiz2]

Don't drive like me. Confirm save your engine.

I feel the same about my driving. In hindsight, regular sessions of maintaining high boost high rpm driving on MEX isn't the best way of preserving our engines. :stupid:

 

[Temujin]

Don't drive like me. Confirm save your engine.

relating to blowing engines, ur a gone case bro. no fully built engines can withstand the might of [PIMPIN].

I feel the same about my driving. In hindsight, regular sessions of maintaining high boost high rpm driving on MEX isn't the best way of preserving our engines. :stupid:

u pulak, it's the case of using stock oil pump. unless u drive like [PIMPIN], i don't think the way u drive would be able to blow an RB30 just like that.

 

[nyantong]

If you guys wan to look for Nissan specialist, best to look for Onward Motorsports in Puchong.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

u pulak, it's the case of using stock oil pump. unless u drive like [PIMPIN], i don't think the way u drive would be able to blow an RB30 just like that.

LOL I missed the regularpart!

Actually the weakness of the stock oil pump has been exaggerated because they aren't that weak. It took me a long time to blow an engine due to stock oil pump failing and even my recent efforts on Sepang no less did not kill the oil pump and over 8000rpm was something I do a lot on the street on a regular basis as it is.

It was sustained high revs over an extended period that killed my oil pump and we're talking outstation drives, constantly maintaining a high speed not a brief flirtation with the limiter once in awhile.

 

[gobiz2]

u pulak, it's the case of using stock oil pump. unless u drive like [PIMPIN], i don't think the way u drive would be able to blow an RB30 just like that.

My Nissan standard oilpump is actually FINE! :proud:

I am pretty sure that my engine failure was caused by oil starvation, where when high rpms are maintained, A LOT of the engine oil goes to the cylinder head and does not return quickly back into the block.

It can also be caused by the oil pickup pipe being exposed due to high G-forces during hard acceleration or cornering.

Hence the engine bearings are starved of oil, leading to friction and displacement.

Same thing occurred to the RB30 engine in the green Z31.

Highly tuned RB engines probably will benefit from a rear oil return and sump baffle.

LOL I missed the regularpart!

Actually the weakness of the stock oil pump has been exaggerated because they aren't that weak. It took me a long time to blow an engine due to stock oil pump failing and even my recent efforts on Sepang no less did not kill the oil pump and over 8000rpm was something I do a lot on the street on a regular basis as it is.

It was sustained high revs over an extended period that killed my oil pump and we're talking outstation drives, constantly maintaining a high speed not a brief flirtation with the limiter once in awhile.

Yes, agreed.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Actually the Zed with the RB30 blew because the car went out on track with less than usual engine oil so it was a gamble and a mistake to begin with - would have killed any engine in those circumstances not just an RB.

But a sump baffle is cheap insurance to begin with if anyone wants to track the car regularly or is addicted to fast Sunday morning runs up mountain roads with high speed corners etc. Ideally one would have an extended sump fitted since the sump baffle plate on its own would be a waste of labour costs. Might as well kill two birds with one stone.

 

[bangkai_jk]

LOL I missed the regularpart!

Actually the weakness of the stock oil pump has been exaggerated because they aren't that weak. It took me a long time to blow an engine due to stock oil pump failing and even my recent efforts on Sepang no less did not kill the oil pump and over 8000rpm was something I do a lot on the street on a regular basis as it is.

It was sustained high revs over an extended period that killed my oil pump and we're talking outstation drives, constantly maintaining a high speed not a brief flirtation with the limiter once in awhile.

:star::star::star::star::star::star::star:

 

[kanan]

Actually the Zed with the RB30 blew because the car went out on track with less than usual engine oil so it was a gamble and a mistake to begin with - would have killed any engine in those circumstances not just an RB.

But a sump baffle is cheap insurance to begin with if anyone wants to track the car regularly or is addicted to fast Sunday morning runs up mountain roads with high speed corners etc. Ideally one would have an extended sump fitted since the sump baffle plate on its own would be a waste of labour costs. Might as well kill two birds with one stone.

Sifus, so changing the stock oil pan to extended oil sump is more vital than changing the oil pump + doing crank collar in this case? i'm in the middle of trying to figure out what the first thing i need to do on my stock 26 to reduce the risk of oiling problem.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Sifus, so changing the stock oil pan to extended oil sump is more vital than changing the oil pump + doing crank collar in this case? i'm in the middle of trying to figure out what the first thing i need to do on my stock 26 to reduce the risk of oiling problem.

That's not quite what I was getting at. It's best to have both if budget allows for it because even with a better oil pump, the amount of oil the stock sump can support leaves much room for improvement.

Plus, sump baffles are cheap so to make the most of your labour costs would be a good idea to get an extended sump which although can cost a few thousand is not as expensive as a replacement engine.

In a perfect world, you'd have the oil pump and crank collar, extended sump and baffle done all at once.