How to improve handling

Blaze

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Hi Sifus out there,

I drove a Gen2 recently, and i must say, the handling is pretty good, especially cornering. Even at cruising speed, it is a very pleasent drive.

My question is, what does it take to get my wira a/b to behave the same as above?
What do i need to change? add? etc.

Appreciate your suggestions?

Thanks

;)
 
change to bigger wider rims, performance tyre,strur bar, anti roll bar, ultra multi point bar, adjustable performance suspension n u shall rock like a race tuned car...
 
Thnks evo5755,

I am not really looking into making my a/b into a race machine, i just want to have that comfort. I am planning to soundproof my a/b to begin with...

Do you think it is even remotely possible to achieve the same handling and comfort as Gen.2?
 
try this...

1. soundproofing - engine bay, doors, firewall, under the rear seat,
- use foam in the chassis - kl auto accessories has it for around 500-600rm -

2. use strut bars front and rear, use PU bushing for roll bars, front lowerarm bar and also rear multilink if the budget allows,

3. use premium OE replacement shocks like monroes with stock springs for the comfort (the strut bars and PU bushes plus the foam should be able to compensate for this)

4. use 15' rims, with premium tires (not simex, not silverstone, not nankang, not hankook) and use a little harder tire pressure for more consisent grip and handling. Somehow, 15' seem to ride a little better than 14.

car should ride well and handle good also.
 
hey riggy,

Good stuff... Thanks...
Will start looking into your recommendations...
 
what what car's displacement? a 1.3 will not recommand to use a 15" instead a 14" will do(what my mech told me, cos 15" will cos ur car even more underpower is its a 1.3) well im using a wira a/b and i did this to mine and i pretty satisfy with the moderate outcome by replacing a springs which is slightly harder than ur stock springs, strut bar, and some camber adjustment(im still using da stock 13" rim). i can do corner at 100km/h++ without problem.. but at 170 somehow the car starts to lose traction.. :P

*pls do not flame me, its just my lil opinion for low cost mod.
 
a 15" Lightgrams certified wheels (Rays TE37 or CE28, Enkei Racing Series, Advan etc.) will behave better than any JRD 14", hehehehe
 
Just change u suspension to 1.6 model lorr....if u aready is 1.6 i nathing to say liao...that is max for wira body..
 
Originally posted by Kopi@Oct 13 2004, 18:38
a 15" Lightgrams certified wheels (Rays TE37 or CE28, Enkei Racing Series, Advan etc.) will behave better than any JRD 14", hehehehe
taiko.. expensive oooo 0.0
me cant afford those leh .. now planning to get those 1.6 14'' rim only..
 
try 'front sway bar' which locate front lower... forget the really name ler.. :P
anyone know?
 
it's called an anti-roll-bar.


if you'd want Gen2 handling? buy one!
ahaha LOL :lol:

a Wira Aeroback is very flexible, infact the most flexible chassis in the M-car range of Protons. The Wira fares better than the Satria, but the stiffest is the Putra!
all shape makes the difference in stiffness!

so to get good handling, you'd need to have a strong foundation.
the Gen2 is WAY stiffer.
 
You need to rig the chassis back as the A/B has a big defect: huge boot opening and heavy hatch door. Your tail end will sway and wiggle under hard cornering.

You can try to make the rear end stiffer, but it will dsirupt the balance of the whole car. If you stiffen the rear, the front will start losing traction and you get serious understeer.

I agree that the gen.2 has far more stiffer chassis, infact the Wira has been outclassed by a few evolutions to be compared with the newer gen.2.

What you can do is to get some stiffening to your Wira. You need:

1. Slightly bigger tyres. 14" is nice, but the higher side wall will flex, hence the swaying motion. Try 15". Even the 1.8 uses that size on the track.

2. Harder suspension: change your suspension; i.e. the dampers and the coilovers. You can opt to change only the dampers, like Sachs has come out with a new line for Wira to be used with stock dampers. I've tried it and I should say there is a marked difference.

3. Stiffen the rear chassis: strut bar is a good way of doing it, and try sourcing out for the anti-roll bar kit. the 1.6 suspension comes with it.

The above suggestion is for those who do not want to go to the extreme. If you want extreme, double stitch the welding seams, weld shut the rear doors and hatch, throw in an FIA approved roll-cage and put in Ohlins racing suspension kit with remote reservoir.
 
guys.. just wanna ask on hadlinghandling.. in particular.. suspension setups..

mine is satria 1.6 ..

while cornering.. (assume long corner at 100kmh).. i felt cornering to right (as most weights transfered to left suspension) is a lot easier (at steering wheel) compared to cornering to the left (as most weights transfered to right suspension). here.. i felt the steering wheel is a lot heavier and extra force needed to control it..

situation: tyre pressure is stable and wheel allignment done. suspension no leak. Fender/front/rear bars installed (UR)..

probability : FYI, my front right (driver side) appeared to be lowered more then left (passenger). its visibly seen. let say.. 2 fingers (to fender) vs 1 finger .. could this be becoz of my right side springs?.. i heard sports springs are difficult to default..

any sifu' spls enlightened me here..
 
Originally posted by gibod_78@Feb 7 2005, 19:27
guys.. just wanna ask on hadlinghandling.. in particular.. suspension setups..

mine is satria 1.6 ..

while cornering.. (assume long corner at 100kmh).. i felt cornering to right (as most weights transfered to left suspension) is a lot easier (at steering wheel) compared to cornering to the left (as most weights transfered to right suspension). here.. i felt the steering wheel is a lot heavier and extra force needed to control it..

situation: tyre pressure is stable and wheel allignment done. suspension no leak. Fender/front/rear bars installed (UR)..

probability : FYI, my front right (driver side) appeared to be lowered more then left (passenger). its visibly seen. let say.. 2 fingers (to fender) vs 1 finger .. could this be becoz of my right side springs?.. i heard sports springs are difficult to default..

any sifu' spls enlightened me here..
either springs sag or shocks leak :o
 
Wira A/B SE has very good handling.

Try compare with normal Wira A/B then u'll see the difference :D
 
Originally posted by soulfly@Feb 7 2005, 21:18
Wira A/B SE has very good handling.

Try compare with normal Wira A/B then u'll see the difference :D
1.6 abs with anti roll bars...that makes the diffrent bro.. :P
 
Originally posted by gibod_78@Feb 7 2005, 19:27
guys.. just wanna ask on hadlinghandling.. in particular.. suspension setups..

mine is satria 1.6 ..

while cornering.. (assume long corner at 100kmh).. i felt cornering to right (as most weights transfered to left suspension) is a lot easier (at steering wheel) compared to cornering to the left (as most weights transfered to right suspension). here.. i felt the steering wheel is a lot heavier and extra force needed to control it..

situation: tyre pressure is stable and wheel allignment done. suspension no leak. Fender/front/rear bars installed (UR)..

probability : FYI, my front right (driver side) appeared to be lowered more then left (passenger). its visibly seen. let say.. 2 fingers (to fender) vs 1 finger .. could this be becoz of my right side springs?.. i heard sports springs are difficult to default..

any sifu' spls enlightened me here..
satria gearbox is on the driver/right side...
so that's why the driver/right side is slightly heavier
 

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