Insufficient Braking Power

GSR06

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Anyone who can advise me on this. I am currently using 2-pot braking system at the front (I believe it's an Evo 2) & I recently just changed the brake pads (I don't know the brand as mechanic didn't tell me) but I still feel that it doesn't have sufficient braking power. How would I know whether it's the brake pump failure or any other factors that can cause this?

Any advise anyone...?
 
Still using original master cylinder pump? if yes, go buy and change it immediately!
 
how long already changed to new brake pad??

if still new less than 1000km then most probably you need bedding-in (running-in) of the new pad... :adore:
 
Yeah, run in the brake pads first. Also agree to change the master cylinder / brake servo.
 
Still using original master cylinder pump? if yes, go buy and change it immediately!

Yeah, run in the brake pads first. Also agree to change the master cylinder / brake servo.

Hi reintel and Izso,

Can please advise me as I am not expert in this? Why must change the master cyl / brake servo? I recently got a set of rear disc brake and I'm going to install it to convert my rear drums. Some people who done it said that it's okay. But some said I need to change the master cyl also.

May I ask is it really necessary? and why need to change? Thank you..
 
if change rear disc brake from similar car model double check the masterpump used on the original rear disc model...if same code so no need to change masterpump/servo....just direct fit....


but if different masterpump code then might be better swap it as well to fully utilize the advantage.....




but mind u on some rear disc brake design would suffer from less handbrake grip :adore:
 
Veloc,

If you think about it logically, a 2pot design has two 'pots' pushing down on the brake pads that clamp onto the rotor. If your original design was a single pot then the master cylinder would only be made to give out x amount of pressure to work with the single pot. Using the same pressure on a 2pot effectively means more pedal travel just to push down on the pots.

In the case of drum vs disc, I've done the same thing for my own Wira. At first I thought about changing the master cylinder and the distribution valve since the rear drum would probably have less pressure than the front, but after swapping out the drums to discs, it works just as well. So I'm not going to touch the distribution valve but may consider upgrading to a Evo servo just so I get less brake travel.

Handbrake grip is caused by poor matching of the handbrake cable. You need to get the right length to ensure it grips on the calipers properly
 
Thanks Izso and Pomen...

So it's just the travel right? Not any loss in braking power? Nothing dangerous? If so, I'll just leave it first until I feel it is insufficient then change.
 
what is the heat range the pad can withstand....if u bought the ultra high performance, i.e 600degree or even 800 degree....then u really need to warm it up to the heat only can feel the braking force...cold start & rolling...it wont grip...
 
i felt the same way when i was using vr4rs 2pot rotors last time... felt ok but somehow just seemed like not enough. i then replaced the rotors with project mu rotors. my god the braking power went from "seemed like not enough" to AWESOME! price a bit "termenung" though...
 
Yes man. Still using the original master cyclinder but there is no leakage... If I applied emergency brake, 2 front wheels can still locked up. Does it mean that the brake pad & master cyclinder are working fine?

Still using original master cylinder pump? if yes, go buy and change it immediately!


---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

Bro, just 2 weeks ago. Actually, I felt the insufficient braking power if before I changed to a new pad.

how long already changed to new brake pad??

if still new less than 1000km then most probably you need bedding-in (running-in) of the new pad... :adore:


---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:30 PM ----------

Bro,
I believe my brake pad isn't a high performance... I checked through the internet & it might be related to Power brake booster...as I feel hard brake press now....anyone can help me to confirm this?... I mean the symptoms...

what is the heat range the pad can withstand....if u bought the ultra high performance, i.e 600degree or even 800 degree....then u really need to warm it up to the heat only can feel the braking force...cold start & rolling...it wont grip...
 
Yes man. Still using the original master cyclinder but there is no leakage... If I applied emergency brake, 2 front wheels can still locked up. Does it mean that the brake pad & master cyclinder are working fine?



---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

Bro, just 2 weeks ago. Actually, I felt the insufficient braking power if before I changed to a new pad.

What car are you driving? Perhaps you need 2-pot front upgrade :biggrin:
 
Bro,
Rotors mean what in this content? Pistons? How much did you pay for it actually?

i felt the same way when i was using vr4rs 2pot rotors last time... felt ok but somehow just seemed like not enough. i then replaced the rotors with project mu rotors. my god the braking power went from "seemed like not enough" to AWESOME! price a bit "termenung" though...


---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------

This is my biggest problem. I am driving a SGTI & I am actually using 2-pot braking system already. Else, it can't stop my car on time...haha...

What car are you driving? Perhaps you need 2-pot front upgrade :biggrin:
 
This is my biggest problem. I am driving a SGTI & I am actually using 2-pot braking system already. Else, it can't stop my car on time...haha...

This means UPGRADE! :biggrin:

4-pot front, 2-pot rear, Evo master cylinder, steel braided hoses and DOT5.1 brake oil!

:biggrin:
 

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