MLOC (Lancer MX,MR,Mivec,Evo) report in.

Was just browsing the forum for threads about Evo's and am interested in buying one.

Just wanted to know if anyone here knows anything or any history about a particular Silver Evo 6.5(Tommi Makinnen Edition) bearing the registration plates WL* 412.

Has it been involved in any bad accidents locally etc or anything of interest?

Just wondering if anyone knew anything about the car..
Thanks alot for the responses in advance.

Best Rgrds
Kenny
 
Kenny,

no idea abt dat 1.....never remember car number plates too often....but my buddy K20A i know la....some wN?13?8 dat i remember hahahaha :)

TME is a gud buy....should go for it....
 
k3nny,

Yo fren, no idea of tht Silver TME from myside too... Pai Seh!!! :embaressed_smile: But as DDgreystar said, TME is a very good choice as it is a collector item!!! In our club, v hv few units of TME too... Very powerful n scary machine!!! Hehehe... Do hang ard here more often for info sharing, u r very welcome all de time!!! :_: In case u need any other info other than tht car history, u can always post up here!!!

To all members, any 1 got any info abt de mention silver TME?

Cheers!!!
 
Members,

Wanna to ask, is there anyone here install any underneat brace/bar b4? Such as Cusco 4 point bar n etc... Am thinking of putting it, but wanna to know whether it make any different b4 n after!!! I means especially during high speed cornering n handling... Thx!!! Or is there any other after mkt parts tht can further strengthen de car chasis highly recomend by all of u???

:regular_smile:
 
I will have the car checked by Links power sometime this week before committing and should i be worried seeing as the car has done 119,000kms?

And there is rust in the engine bay around the battery. Could that be from the acid from the battery or possibly an accident there before?

Thanks alot once again

Kenny
 
k3nny,

Hi again! 119,000kms should not b a problem if de car was well taken care by de previous owner!!! Examples, all wear n tear parts r being replaced, often do servicing, frequent oil changed n etc... As for tht mileage, u can bargain for better pricing... And for de 'rust in the engine bay around the battery', most properly it was de Battery water overflow!!! If ok u can try to capture some pics to post here, so tht v can help u clearer n better...

Besides if u wanna to know whether de car been accident b4, u can kinda check de 1. side rib of de engine bay 2. open de 4 doors n take down de rubber n check de car body 3. underneat de car 4. test drive de car!!!

If u were to ask LINKS to help out, i think they wil b experience enough to advise u in all this!!!
 
k3nny, yup good idea to have the TME checked by links. they should be able to tell u any problem. also listen for any funny sounds while test driving it.

funny funny sounds are not good at all.

storm, walah.....mau strengthen the ct9a chassis more meh? stock evo already damn good lah...so rigid n stiff liao.

anyway, if u wanna know. my bro met a guy with a souped up altezza...heres the specs:

compressor force-induction to 240hp(on engine)
carbon fibre bonnet, GT wing, te37 rims, tein suspensions, plus a whole of lot bracing bars underneath the car.

he says the car is very very stiff now n he corners like mad....i have seen him go on corners with more than 90km/h on simple corner...until tires also screech...cool damn geng also.

fact is, the stock altezza chassis is definately not stiff at all n it has more body roll than the evo.

for my normal style of driving, the evo is damn already very stiff in stock standard. but my altezza is not ......aduh. but his altezza also is lowered...evo is pretty high

so if u wanna have more fun going into corners, i guess u can go for the bracing members underneath...cusco right? yup. plus a rear struct bar, better front struct bar, stiffer front n rear anti roll bars.....walau corner king liao.
 
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better high speed response n handling i am not sure bro. sorry.

better suspension? i think must be a bit soft while going at highway right? but when do corners must be hard....hmm...

lowering the car also helps

i think good stability while doing high speeds on the highway, softer suspension, better anti rolling bars n a lowered car will help.

but for cornering, i think stiff springs, anti roll bars n a damn stiff chassis helps..

what u guys think?
 
silver_car,

Thx man for all de info!!! Appreciate tht! :regular_smile: Cos at de moment, went i go on high speed cornering my rear wheel kinda sway a bit... n my other buddy from E9 thread oso agreed on this... So i guess must b de IX setting!!! I think i'll b going for de anti roll bars + brace bars in order to counter de problem!!! Hehehe...

As for de suspension, tht wil b de last thing i'll touch on it!!! Its very subjective issue... Suspension tht suit 1 might not suit de other... As for de stiffer spring, wil kinda try it if those bars r not up to my expectation!!!

E7 stock suspension - Stiff!!!
E8 stock suspension - softer!!!
E8MR + E9 stock suspension - Stiff (by Blistein)!!!
 
NoTiGuY,

As i know from few mag.(AutoCar - both Asia n Europe issue, Option Fans, Option n etc), since de E8 is going into US market so de factory side decided to 'softer' de suspension feel in order to suit them... When Mitsu launch de E7, lotsa editors said its suspension is too stiff for street use... So Mitsu kinda fine tuned de suspension kit for E8 into 'softer' mode but without compromise on de cornering stabality... Tht's what i got to know from many Mag...

Jus to share together... did test drove E7 & E8 b4 buying E9... E8 r more comfortable car for street use... :_: Hvnt try de MR b4... Would luv to do so in de future... Hehehe... :shades_smile: What do u think? Its de same for u? Thx!
 
k3nny said:
I will have the car checked by Links power sometime this week before committing and should i be worried seeing as the car has done 119,000kms?

And there is rust in the engine bay around the battery. Could that be from the acid from the battery or possibly an accident there before?

Thanks alot once again

Kenny


Hi Kenny,

First of all, welcome to MLOC tread and enjoy your 'stay' here with us. We are a friendly bunch..dun worry !

To address your concern, I'll assume you are going for a original TME rather than converted version so I'll forget about 'lecturing' the difference and what you should look about between getting a converted vs ori evo (TME in this case).

Mileage:
At 119K, it might 'looks' a bit high but let's do some logical calculation to see if it's a case of overusage. We know that TME production range from year 2000 to 2001 so let's assume you got a year 2001 TME.

That will means an average of 24K a year. This means this car get's service at a frequency of every 2.5 months throughout the year assuming it's servicing is done every 5K . Now at this rate, it would seem a little heavy of a usage. However, if it's a year 2000 TME you are getting, then the positive figure might go even down and negative would go up so you can do your math from here. Ie..is worst than. :Not_Impressed:

However, don't get me wrong. We cannot simply assume higher mileage means worst engine condition. Is definately not true as long as the engine is well taken care of. Imagine an owner who does his servicing every 15K and sell you his car at 30K mileage ! LoL..that means 2 times service only lar.

Rust:

It's very likely to be a batteries water/acid causing the rust if it's indeed around the batteries bays but then again, do take note if it's using a dry cell batteries instead of the water type. You are right on the 2nd possibility as it might also be a case of 'minor' accident causing a knock and repair on that particular part (especialy joints) where welding takes place and without proper layer of re-paint to cover the repaired surface up, rust will appear after sometime.

Wear and Tear (Value vs $$ ):

At 120K, you need to bargain youself for some wear and tear items to be replace. However, we all know it's a used TME you are looking at so what I really meant is to have a price comensuarate with the 'package'. Anyone can sell a used TME or evo at a lower price but if you get one at a higher price, don't jump into conclusion that it is expensive because chances are, it's owner maintain and replace all these W&T parts by the book and trust me, they are COSTLY !

Very often, buyer tend to overlook all these mini minor item and end up forking extra of more than 10K upon getting the car to have all this replace. Item to look out for when hunting and bargain.. CLUTCHES, Tyres, Timing/Oil belts, Drive shaft bearings, brake rotors & pads (is not cheap for full set of evo pads)..etc. Aftermarkets in the car is of course, a PLUS !! (ie..ECU, RIMS, EXHAUST..etc)

Get the service record, bargain with the seller approariately if you get what I meant. Getting Links or any professional garage to check at your potential car is definately a good measures to get an idea of the car status.

Getting a TME is a good idea coz although it is older than the current evos, it is really a Limited edition of the evo lines (with 5000 production runs only worldwide) and personally, I felt that TME has the best 'looks' (fierce lah) in stock form compared to other variant of evos. Hehe..

Remember, some of the very valuable parts of a TME besides it's engine and chasis is it's limited edition of original bodykits and interior (recaros) so make sure you get what you paid and not get conned with some do up fibres TME. LoL

In MLOC, we have original Evo 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9 as well as converted evo 4, 5, 6 and TME so our 'experience' and advice is here to share on both ori vs convert whenever you need it.

Hope this helps ok.. ;)

Rgds,
Ben

p/s: No idea about the silver WL* 412 TME though..can't remember plates. hehe :embaressed_smile:
 
Stormvolution 9 said:
Members,

Wanna to ask, is there anyone here install any underneat brace/bar b4? Such as Cusco 4 point bar n etc... Am thinking of putting it, but wanna to know whether it make any different b4 n after!!! I means especially during high speed cornering n handling... Thx!!! Or is there any other after mkt parts tht can further strengthen de car chasis highly recomend by all of u???

:regular_smile:

Are u refering to this 1?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/yeolek/My%20Car/DSC06575.jpg
Installed in my car by previous owner...so i can't answer your question any different b4 & after..hehe. For me i think when cornering the feel/stable better compare to others EVO i test drive b4.
 
B18C-R Boss, what lah u.....u need it for what wor?..ulu yam trip chase u like hell also cannot see the tail light liao, your car already stiff enuf lah...:regular_smile:

Not my dog, my dog is "choy kao", thi is my GF "no tail dog" both of them also no tail 1.:angel_smile:
 
S9,

not sure... tried both the E7 (which came with the car) and also installed a friend's ori E8 suspension, both also the same to me. If theres a difference between both, then it ought to be the spring rates. Both the 7 & 8 absorbers share the same model number too.

The only real difference i really noticed is that the E8 seats are harder and not as comfy as the 7 and MR.

This is the brace ur referring to? If so, yes, there is a slight difference when mounted on. I tried it on and off twice already.


http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/6811/cuscotypeiilowerarmbar20kz.jpg
 
NoTiGuY, Slivia, silver_car n B18C-R,

Yeah, tht's de 1 am refering to lar... Izzit mounted on de front portion or rear side underneat de car??? Besides this bar, there r this stabilizer/anti roll bars oso good for handling right? Thx for helping with so much info... :regular_smile:

Hope to get de right stuffs to counter de handling problem...

B18C-R, haha... U really give k3nny a very detail info lar... hahaha...:_:
 

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