My Snail Rebuild Integra DB8

[l2s_turbo]

Wah shiok ah...

 

[ddv_nk12]

bro regarding tuning..i think is better for u to road tune as the power loss to the wheels are calculated and the exact AFR is to be set. yours is a B20B or B18C?

well going VAFC or hondata it depends on the budget.if big budget than straight HONDATA. maybe when u back to seremban than can chit chat.

i have seen ppl go on dyno and come bk to road tune to a different mechanic to fine tune..

Thanks for the advice bro. Anyone back home to fine tune?

SE86, his is B16 head, B20 block

Thanks YH.

ok..than hondata bro..

Yes bro, went for Hondata. Felt the pinch but I think it is worth it la.

Wah shiok ah...

Damn shiok la... But don't know why, feel like still not fast enough. I mean yeah la. Just Hondata what can I expect right? Haha. Need to save up more for more upgrades. Guess another 2 or 3 months again for the next mod if not longer.

 

[mADmAN]

WHOAH.....HONDATA!!!

i iz jeles... im in the middle of trying to squeeze my finances to fit a hondata...but abit the susah since got baby coming hahahahahahaha

 

[ddv_nk12]

No need jealous la. My car still slow. Like got no difference only. Slowly do up la. Got baby coming already, that's more important. Hehe. I also better quickly do up my car before I start worrying about all these.

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

Here is how it happened. I went to see my mechanic just to TC. Went there, while we were talking, I said, come let's dyno the car now. He asked why? I said gonna fix Hondata. So, that's how it started. More of an impulsive purchase. My last two purchases are also the same. IMPULSIVE!!

Went to dyno the car first to see the difference before and after since I've also not dyno-ed my car before.

First time seeing a dyno machine live. So can't help it but to take a pic of it.

Car already on the dyno machine.

Some cables, don't know connecting to what:

The monitor (as if you didn't know that, hehe)

That's it. First dyno run completed.
Result:

Dyno graph shows: 22.04 kg-m torque/ 219.9 HP at 7900RPM

I was surprised and shocked by the result. I was like 220HP??? WOW!!! Then only I remember that its minus 20-30% of it to get WHP which means about 154WHP. Now am I still happy? NO. Initially I was thinking somewhere between 150-160WHP. Then, a few post before this on this thread, I was told that I could expect about 180WHP. DAMN!!! That's already like 20WHP lesser than what it supposed to be.

Fine, no point crying about it. Just install and tune Hondata and PRAY for the best. Back to the workshop from the dyno shop.

My mech was working on the ECU itself while I had to do something else. Left the workshop, so no pics.

When I came back a few hours later, my mech had already installed the Hondata and started tuning (i think). He was playing with his laptop in my car:

Then, he went road-tuning 4 times while I stayed back. So many times, is this normal?

Finally, he was happy with it. He told me to test-drive to the dyno shop again to dyno-tune now.

Almost immediately, the car felt lighter. The lower RPM range was quicker. Not a lot of difference but I could feel it. The problem with my car is the lower RPM pull. It was very slow and heavy.
This was my old video of my 2nd gear pull.
Slow lower RPM - YouTube

Part II: Dyno tuning coming up!!

---------- Post added at 11:49 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:23 PM ----------

Here is Part II

I had to do it in another post because I don't know why almost every time I have a long post, I have to re-login and once I do that, everything is gone. Hehe. Lazy to type again.

Anyway, now we are at the dyno shop.

I snapped a pic of the dyno guy putting something into my exhaust but can't seem to find it now. Btw, what is that thing?

To dyno tune, the dyno guy is the one who did it, I don't know why:

He took quite long to tune. Maybe something was wrong. We even had time for beers while tuning. Time to time, my mech would spray water on the radiator, IM and fuel rail.

I have a few videos on the dyno runs. I will post them later on.

In the end, this was the result:

2nd dyno graph shows: 23.79 kg-m torque/230.5HP at 7850 RPM.

Summary:
+ 1.75 kg-m torque
and
+ 10.6 HP
with Hondata

Is this good? Normal?

I don't understand what those curves and figures in the graphs mean. All I can say is that both my mech and the dyno guy said it was good. To me, I don't know whether I should be happy or not because they didn't tell me what is good. Anyone here care to explain?

Guess that's it for now. I will post the pics as soon as I can. Stay tuned for more IMPULSIVE PURCHASES. Hehe.

 

[yeehau86]

bro, is there any air fuel ratio report on your dyno graph? if dyno at Dynojet JC Racing it will be at the bottom.

---------- Post added at 12:17 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:09 AM ----------

here's an example:

 

[ddv_nk12]

bro, is there any air fuel ratio report on your dyno graph? if dyno at Dynojet JC Racing it will be at the bottom.

---------- Post added at 12:17 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:09 AM ----------

here's an example:

Yes bro. If you look at the second graph, there is a black line AFR. No figures but its like a almost horizontal line. It starts off at about [email protected] RPM. Then dips to about 13.0 at 3.9k RPM. From 3.9k RPM to 5.8k RPM, it goes up and down a little, very little actually maybe about 12.8 at the lowest point and 13.2 at the highest point. From 5.8k RPM all the way to 7.9 is pretty much a straight line. Then dips a little more at about 8.5k RPM to about 12.7.

I hope this is what you want to know. If yes, what does this mean?

---------- Post added at 12:30 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------

I don't have the bottom portion shown in the graph you posted. Makes me wonder more now...

 

[yeehau86]

If the graph falls below the red ---------------- benchmark in red in the sample that i've shown, means that the car's FC is bad. That's what they told me when I dyno-ed my car last time. The benchmark for me that time was 13, not sure its applicable to all or not. Vice versa if it is too high above the line means its running too rich. Correct me if I'm wrong.

---------- Post added at 12:39 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:36 AM ----------

No, it's ok as you can refer to the vertical on the right of the second graph AFR for the figures. Just that you may need to use a ruler to compare to the benchmark

 

[ddv_nk12]

Ok. Now I understand. I think I remember my mech said that the car has to run a little rich but I can't remember if he said why is that so. My AFR is also around 13. I hope my FC will improve. Will it improve?

---------- Post added at 01:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:48 AM ----------

This is the thing that they put inside my exhaust. What is it and its purpose?

And these are the dyno runs:

Dyno Stock B20 VTEC - YouTube

If anyone here understands what is spoken between the two of them here, care to share? Just curious.

And another run:
Dyno Stock B20 Vtec - YouTube

 

[Izso]

The thing in the exhaust is the equivalent of a O2 sensor for the dyno to measure how rich or lean you're running.

That's a nice even torque curve (prior to the VTEC kicking in) and 230bhp is helluva a lot! But I just realised yours is a 2L. You probably could do better with more impulsive purchases.

Nice AF line though, very linear so you're running leaner as the RPMs go up. Did you check your engine temp at the high end?

---------- Post added at 07:06 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:02 AM ----------

btw, cannot really hear what they're saying in mandarin so can't really translate for you

 

[Wilson13B]

sorry bro dv was in a rush when replied ur post..

tuner - Ah Han from tung chun motorsport. higly highly recommended.

install in glove compartment - and place magnet bar on dashboard, and on vafc stand. if u wanna use the display for throttle position, correction,vacuum etc... u can place on dash. when display not in use or wanna hide keep in glove compartment...if parked for long time, just remove and take with you. it comes with 2 sockets which can easily be removed and put back on within 5 seconds.

170whp~180whp is what that commonly expected...and actually if you are going to dyno @ works..expect higher figures. but bro...don rely so much on these figures...doesnt really mean much...

But last time my friend one hide in the same way with magnet bar/stand on the dashboard,the car still give some god damn theft broke into and the SAFC,VAFC,HU,Audio AMP.etc varnish ~ so gotta be careful with that ~

 

[ddv_nk12]

Ok. That must be for the AFR reading i guess.

Aiks, 230BHP and 230HP. Are they the same?

Didn't chek the engine temp, I don't know if that was included. But my mech kept spraying water at some parts in the engine bay in between the dyno runs.

Nah, its ok if you can't really hear 'em.

 

[Wilson13B]

Bro ddv_nk12 , about the WHP calculation,it's not true/accurate......a engine that had high power will lose less to the drivetrain components,if according to your calculation by percentage then it ill be the bigger the engine horsepower,the more horses it lose to the drivetrain.....get a proper WHP dyno ~

---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

Ok. That must be for the AFR reading i guess.

Aiks, 230BHP and 230HP. Are they the same?

Didn't chek the engine temp, I don't know if that was included. But my mech kept spraying water at some parts in the engine bay in between the dyno runs.

Nah, its ok if you can't really hear 'em.

BHP more accurate,as it name,it called as Brake Horsepower which the machine will apply load to the vehicle wheel to stimulate real world driving ~

 

[mADmAN]

20-30% loss??? typically i hear is about 15% only...

but if based on 15% then ur pushing 187hp before hondata and thats already a healthy engine...

after hondata ur pushing 196hp.

anyway...engine looks good..nice and healthy... time to get some higher compression pistons and some high cams :D

 

[ddv_nk12]

Bro ddv_nk12 , about the WHP calculation,it's not true/accurate......a engine that had high power will lose less to the drivetrain components,if according to your calculation by percentage then it ill be the bigger the engine horsepower,the more horses it lose to the drivetrain.....get a proper WHP dyno ~

---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------



BHP more accurate,as it name,it called as Brake Horsepower which the machine will apply load to the vehicle wheel to stimulate real world driving ~

Guess I will need to find a BHP Dyno machine. Anywhere you know bro?
How much is it to do a dyno run to test the BHP?

20-30% loss??? typically i hear is about 15% only...

but if based on 15% then ur pushing 187hp before hondata and thats already a healthy engine...

after hondata ur pushing 196hp.

anyway...engine looks good..nice and healthy... time to get some higher compression pistons and some high cams :D

Owhh..Posion posion. Haha. Just joking. Bro, all the while I've been thinking that I need high compression pistons in order to use anything more than Type R cams. But yesterday, my mech said that I can use Skunk2 Pro 2 or Toda B without high compression pistons. True? But I think better do up the block 1st, and then proceed to the head. What say you?

Anyway, I think as for now, I wanna save up for a good clutch. As ad_eg mentioned, I need a clutch to support the power or something like that. Any suggestions?

Bro madman, mind to tell your mods and hp/tq? I have always used your car as a benchmark. Hehe.

 

[mADmAN]

yeah....u can even use toda c or c2 with the stock b20 bottom and still make decent power...

my mods and HP? 85mm bore...12.5:1 with B18C-R cams and PnP head i making about 186hp with VAFC.

unfortunately compression doesnt really increase hp that much... but i did get an improve ment in torque.. im at 20kgmm now from 18 previously.

during tuning the tuner said i need something to help tune my ignition.. then i can get more... VAFC alone not enough coz compression too high...heheheh

 

[ddv_nk12]

yeah....u can even use toda c or c2 with the stock b20 bottom and still make decent power...

my mods and HP? 85mm bore...12.5:1 with B18C-R cams and PnP head i making about 186hp with VAFC.

unfortunately compression doesnt really increase hp that much... but i did get an improve ment in torque.. im at 20kgmm now from 18 previously.

during tuning the tuner said i need something to help tune my ignition.. then i can get more... VAFC alone not enough coz compression too high...heheheh

Your mods damn nice already. Just change the cams next. Then maybe can sell me your type r cams. Hehe. Where you dyno bro? I think if you dyno the same place I did mine, your figures will be a lot higher.

 

[Wilson13B]

Guess I will need to find a BHP Dyno machine. Anywhere you know bro?
How much is it to do a dyno run to test the BHP?



Owhh..Posion posion. Haha. Just joking. Bro, all the while I've been thinking that I need high compression pistons in order to use anything more than Type R cams. But yesterday, my mech said that I can use Skunk2 Pro 2 or Toda B without high compression pistons. True? But I think better do up the block 1st, and then proceed to the head. What say you?

Anyway, I think as for now, I wanna save up for a good clutch. As ad_eg mentioned, I need a clutch to support the power or something like that. Any suggestions?

Bro madman, mind to tell your mods and hp/tq? I have always used your car as a benchmark. Hehe.

Sunway JC Racing quite good ~

 

[pwhyze]

Nice DB8 bro! From what I've read,if you are going for Todas,Jun,etc.. higher compression is recommended since the cams were designed with high CR in mind. It's not necessarily compulsory but it'll bring the best out of the cams. Anyway, what bolt on mods you have?

 

[jo-e34]

DD- 12++ to 13++ AFR means your machine is running lean....u might asked the tuner to tune for more power and save fuel at t he same time........boss....

 

[ddv_nk12]

Nice DB8 bro! From what I've read,if you are going for Todas,Jun,etc.. higher compression is recommended since the cams were designed with high CR in mind. It's not necessarily compulsory but it'll bring the best out of the cams. Anyway, what bolt on mods you have?

Thanks bro. I just have simple bolt on mods like IHE. That's about it.

DD- 12++ to 13++ AFR means your machine is running lean....u might asked the tuner to tune for more power and save fuel at t he same time........boss....

Does it mean that if my AFR is rich, I'll get better FC and more power at the same time? I told my tuner about my car running rich previously. He said he can tune to make it leaner. The smell from the exhaust was really bad. Now still there but not always and not as bad as it used to be.

---------- Post added at 09:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------

Any plans on what to do next? Not expensive stuff. Maybe some cheap stuff to help the appearance of my car?