Hi guys, just sold off my EK and paid downpayment for a Silver Evo 7 located at the corner end of Jalan Imbi. Condition of the car looks great.. my cousin whos a car dealer for exotic cars helped me check out the condition. Mileage on that car is pretty low, around 17k done. No modifications to the car at all, all stock standard. What I need to know is when is the next time I should be doing servicing to the car and also where is a good place to go to. Ive been playing VTEC for the past 4 years so I dont really know where to tune an Evo. I plan to keep it stock standard as that will be my work car. Any help or info would be much appreciated.
Need help regarding carcare for an Evo 7
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Congrats on your new "baby" :)
1) Service - reproduce here for your reference (service internals in miles)
Service Guidelines [Evolution IV – VIII] from Ralliart UK
EVERY 4,500 MILES OR 6 MONTHS
1. Check operation of all exterior lights
2. Check condition of wiper blades
3. Check auxiliary drive belts for damage/tension
4. Replenish washer fluid level
5. Replenish inter-cooler spray system
6. Check break line for leaks
7. Check rear differential oil level
8. Replace AYC fluids [diffs + reservoir]
9. Replace engine oil [fully synthetic oil only]
10. Replace engine oil filter
11. Check brake pads/discs for wear
12. Check tyres for damage/wear
13. Check/reset engine idle speed
EVERY 9,000 MILES OR 12 MONTHS
1. Check all turbo hoses for damage and security
2. Check condition of the air filter
3. Check cooling system for leaks
4. Check brake/clutch fluid levels
5. Check battery levels. Replenish were necessary
6. Check f/r suspension for damage and security
7. Check steering system for damage and security
8. Check gearbox oil level
9. Check transfer box oil level
10. Check brake/clutch pedals for travel/adjustment
11. Check/adjust hand brake travel
12. Swap tyres front to rear [if required]
13. Check condition of body
EVERY 18,000 MILES OR 24 MONTHS
1. Replace brake fluid
2. Replace air filter
3. Replace coolant. Check system for leaks
4. Check HT leads
5. Check drive shafts and gaiters
6. Check fuel pipes for damage and security
EVERY 45,000 MILES OR 60 MONTHS
1. Replace timing belts A and B
2. Replace spark plugs
3. Replace fuel filter
4. Check secondary air system hoses for leaks
5. Check crankcase control system/pipes
EVERY SERVICE
Carry out a full road test to check correct operation of all systems
2) Workshop - to a certain extent the w/shop should know about the workings and servicability of "exotic" parts on the evo - like the AYC and ACD... and also on turbo charging. Apart from that I suppose the mechanicals are the same as any other car.
3) Tuning/performance parts - there are loads of them in the market - never short of options as long as the pocket is deep ;)
Hope this helps.
1) Service - reproduce here for your reference (service internals in miles)
Service Guidelines [Evolution IV – VIII] from Ralliart UK
EVERY 4,500 MILES OR 6 MONTHS
1. Check operation of all exterior lights
2. Check condition of wiper blades
3. Check auxiliary drive belts for damage/tension
4. Replenish washer fluid level
5. Replenish inter-cooler spray system
6. Check break line for leaks
7. Check rear differential oil level
8. Replace AYC fluids [diffs + reservoir]
9. Replace engine oil [fully synthetic oil only]
10. Replace engine oil filter
11. Check brake pads/discs for wear
12. Check tyres for damage/wear
13. Check/reset engine idle speed
EVERY 9,000 MILES OR 12 MONTHS
1. Check all turbo hoses for damage and security
2. Check condition of the air filter
3. Check cooling system for leaks
4. Check brake/clutch fluid levels
5. Check battery levels. Replenish were necessary
6. Check f/r suspension for damage and security
7. Check steering system for damage and security
8. Check gearbox oil level
9. Check transfer box oil level
10. Check brake/clutch pedals for travel/adjustment
11. Check/adjust hand brake travel
12. Swap tyres front to rear [if required]
13. Check condition of body
EVERY 18,000 MILES OR 24 MONTHS
1. Replace brake fluid
2. Replace air filter
3. Replace coolant. Check system for leaks
4. Check HT leads
5. Check drive shafts and gaiters
6. Check fuel pipes for damage and security
EVERY 45,000 MILES OR 60 MONTHS
1. Replace timing belts A and B
2. Replace spark plugs
3. Replace fuel filter
4. Check secondary air system hoses for leaks
5. Check crankcase control system/pipes
EVERY SERVICE
Carry out a full road test to check correct operation of all systems
2) Workshop - to a certain extent the w/shop should know about the workings and servicability of "exotic" parts on the evo - like the AYC and ACD... and also on turbo charging. Apart from that I suppose the mechanicals are the same as any other car.
3) Tuning/performance parts - there are loads of them in the market - never short of options as long as the pocket is deep ;)
Hope this helps.
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I must add that the workshop should also know 4WD system as well.
My personal experience was during on-wheel balancing that requires both front and rear on each side to be jacked-up during the operation. Apparently the guy didn't realise this and nearly launch my car forward while still on the jacks
My personal experience was during on-wheel balancing that requires both front and rear on each side to be jacked-up during the operation. Apparently the guy didn't realise this and nearly launch my car forward while still on the jacks
I bought my car for 170k. Thanks seventh for the info.. any recommendations on which workshop to go to?... I stay in Bangsar. And can I know a rough estimate cost for the servicing. Dont plan to mod the car much coz I dont want my petrol consumption to kill me. Probably just add in a BOV, filter and some other gauges. Would be great if you guys can recommend the BOV, Filter and the gauges cause really new to Turbo cars. Price hopefully its not crazy.
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I find Speedwork's service professional but at above average prices. Checking out USF for a change for my next service.
Air filter upgrade - if you are not planning to go above 350+hp, a panel filter replacement like K&N (RM450+) would do just nice. Cone shape offers better air flow but must be installed with heat shield (RM800+...??) and if possible, cool air duct.
BOV - for that boy-racer sound... "whooooosh"... great but not a big fan. No offence :)
17km mileage is still young and tight :ph34r: don't think is possible to know when was last serviced unless FSH is provided :blink:
I reckon you should count what is already on the clock for your service intervals.
Cheers
Air filter upgrade - if you are not planning to go above 350+hp, a panel filter replacement like K&N (RM450+) would do just nice. Cone shape offers better air flow but must be installed with heat shield (RM800+...??) and if possible, cool air duct.
BOV - for that boy-racer sound... "whooooosh"... great but not a big fan. No offence :)
17km mileage is still young and tight :ph34r: don't think is possible to know when was last serviced unless FSH is provided :blink:
I reckon you should count what is already on the clock for your service intervals.
Cheers
Alrighty cool thanks for the info.. i'll check out Speedworks for the servicing... will they really chop you on the pricing? Would bringing someone familiar with the people there give you a better price? Cause I dont have the budget to be chopped that badly. And whats the rough estimate cost of each service based on the chart you posted earlier 6 months, 12 months and 24 months. Just a rough figure =)
Much Appreciated
Much Appreciated
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Very2 rough estimate:
engine oil 5L - about RM220 fully synthetic
oil filter - standard mitsu - RM22, K&N (yes K&N also has oil filter) - RM80
labour - about RM40 per service
gearbox oil 6L (with some left) - RM400+ using TORCO - can be more cheaper for other brands
AYC oil 1L - RM80 using synthetic auto transmission oil
labour - about RM80 for changing oil + RM40 for bleeding AYC
++
You can get cheaper elsewhere but for first service you probably want it to be done at a place you can trust and know what they are doing. Always ask them to quote first before you confirm on the services to be performed. Saves you a lot of aggravation later on when you have to pay :)
engine oil 5L - about RM220 fully synthetic
oil filter - standard mitsu - RM22, K&N (yes K&N also has oil filter) - RM80
labour - about RM40 per service
gearbox oil 6L (with some left) - RM400+ using TORCO - can be more cheaper for other brands
AYC oil 1L - RM80 using synthetic auto transmission oil
labour - about RM80 for changing oil + RM40 for bleeding AYC
++
You can get cheaper elsewhere but for first service you probably want it to be done at a place you can trust and know what they are doing. Always ask them to quote first before you confirm on the services to be performed. Saves you a lot of aggravation later on when you have to pay :)
This is what i've gathered from my own knowledge. hope it helps.
The 5 speed transmissions in the EVO 4-MR tend to shift best with a GL-4 gear oil that meets specification for synchromesh. Like several evo forummers have stated (evo forums), do not use a GL-5 in the transmission. I would avoid using any gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5 spec. Instead, option only for a GL-4 oil that meets.....specification for synchromesh. These oils will improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers and that means a better shifting transmission.
GL-5 oils should not be used in the Mitsubishi transmission because they are too slippery and reduce the effectiveness of the synchronizer and you don't want that because the synchros basically act like brakes, their job is to bring the speed of the various transmission components up to the same “synchronized” speed with one another so the engagement teeth mesh at the same speed and don't get all torn up.
When it comes to the 6 speed Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen Super Multi Gear Oil, part #MZ313376. Could you use a different oil in this transmission? Most likely you could but consider this, Mitsubishi rarely uses the phase "exact equivalent" and when they state to use the Diaqueen SMGO or the "exact equivalent" it's probably best to follow their advice.
In the transfer case and rear differential you must use a GL-5 "Hypoid" type gear oil. The transfer case features hypoid gears to transmit that power to the drive shaft. The word hypoid is short for hyperboloid which refers to the design of these gears. All you need to know is that hypoid gears; don’t share a common axis, run quiet (for the most part) and they are a strong design. Yet by design the gear teeth must slide across one another during their meshing and this is why you must us a GL-5 Hypoid type gear oil in the transfer case and rear end, you need that slippery oil here. Use the wrong oil and the transfer case will start howling and growling within a couple tanks of gas. Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil in the transfer case and rear end of the EVOs. This oil is a single viscosity, 90 weight, and the part number is #377610. If you can’t find this oil you must find a gear oil that meets the GL-5 Hypoid specification. Again this oil must ONLY meet GL-5 preferably 90 weight. Do not use a gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5. These one size fits all type oils are not recommended anymore than a one heat range fits all spark plug.
Also, multi viscosity index modifiers and dyes both reduce the film strength of the oil; they take up valuable parking spaces on the molecular level and that’s what the transfer case and rear end both need more of, film strength. There are several brands of oil on the market and you can use any of them as long as it meets Mitsubishi's requirements.
Below, the requirements for oil/lubricant replacements.
1)
Item :-Transmission Oil
Specs :- Gear oil SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W conforming to API GL-4
Quantity :- 2.8ltr
2)
Item :- Transfer oil
Specs :- Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630 EX, CASTROL
HYPOY LS (GL-5, SAE 90), SHELL-LSD (GL-5, SAE 90W-90) or
equivalent
Quantity :- 0.55ltr (RS), 0.6ltr (GSR)
3)
Item :- Fluid
Specs :- DIA QUEEN ATF SP III
Quantity :- 0.9ltr,, 1.0ltr (wuth AYC)
4)
Item :- Gear Oil (vehicle with mechanical LSD)
Specs: :- Hypoid Gear Oil
Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630 EX, CASTROL
HYPOY LS (GL-5, SAE 90), SHELL-LSD (GL-5, SAE 90W-90) or
Equivalent
Quantity :- 0.55ltr
5)
Item :- Gear Oil (vehicle with ACD/AYC)
Specs :- Differentials – Hypoid Gear Oil API Classification GL-5 or higher SAE
viscosity No.90W,80W
Torque Transfer Mechanism – ATF-SP
Quantity :- 0.55ltr
0.65-0.7ltr
The 5 speed transmissions in the EVO 4-MR tend to shift best with a GL-4 gear oil that meets specification for synchromesh. Like several evo forummers have stated (evo forums), do not use a GL-5 in the transmission. I would avoid using any gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5 spec. Instead, option only for a GL-4 oil that meets.....specification for synchromesh. These oils will improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers and that means a better shifting transmission.
GL-5 oils should not be used in the Mitsubishi transmission because they are too slippery and reduce the effectiveness of the synchronizer and you don't want that because the synchros basically act like brakes, their job is to bring the speed of the various transmission components up to the same “synchronized” speed with one another so the engagement teeth mesh at the same speed and don't get all torn up.
When it comes to the 6 speed Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen Super Multi Gear Oil, part #MZ313376. Could you use a different oil in this transmission? Most likely you could but consider this, Mitsubishi rarely uses the phase "exact equivalent" and when they state to use the Diaqueen SMGO or the "exact equivalent" it's probably best to follow their advice.
In the transfer case and rear differential you must use a GL-5 "Hypoid" type gear oil. The transfer case features hypoid gears to transmit that power to the drive shaft. The word hypoid is short for hyperboloid which refers to the design of these gears. All you need to know is that hypoid gears; don’t share a common axis, run quiet (for the most part) and they are a strong design. Yet by design the gear teeth must slide across one another during their meshing and this is why you must us a GL-5 Hypoid type gear oil in the transfer case and rear end, you need that slippery oil here. Use the wrong oil and the transfer case will start howling and growling within a couple tanks of gas. Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil in the transfer case and rear end of the EVOs. This oil is a single viscosity, 90 weight, and the part number is #377610. If you can’t find this oil you must find a gear oil that meets the GL-5 Hypoid specification. Again this oil must ONLY meet GL-5 preferably 90 weight. Do not use a gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5. These one size fits all type oils are not recommended anymore than a one heat range fits all spark plug.
Also, multi viscosity index modifiers and dyes both reduce the film strength of the oil; they take up valuable parking spaces on the molecular level and that’s what the transfer case and rear end both need more of, film strength. There are several brands of oil on the market and you can use any of them as long as it meets Mitsubishi's requirements.
Below, the requirements for oil/lubricant replacements.
1)
Item :-Transmission Oil
Specs :- Gear oil SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W conforming to API GL-4
Quantity :- 2.8ltr
2)
Item :- Transfer oil
Specs :- Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630 EX, CASTROL
HYPOY LS (GL-5, SAE 90), SHELL-LSD (GL-5, SAE 90W-90) or
equivalent
Quantity :- 0.55ltr (RS), 0.6ltr (GSR)
3)
Item :- Fluid
Specs :- DIA QUEEN ATF SP III
Quantity :- 0.9ltr,, 1.0ltr (wuth AYC)
4)
Item :- Gear Oil (vehicle with mechanical LSD)
Specs: :- Hypoid Gear Oil
Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630 EX, CASTROL
HYPOY LS (GL-5, SAE 90), SHELL-LSD (GL-5, SAE 90W-90) or
Equivalent
Quantity :- 0.55ltr
5)
Item :- Gear Oil (vehicle with ACD/AYC)
Specs :- Differentials – Hypoid Gear Oil API Classification GL-5 or higher SAE
viscosity No.90W,80W
Torque Transfer Mechanism – ATF-SP
Quantity :- 0.55ltr
0.65-0.7ltr
6 litres in ur transmission? U got to be kiddin rite?
Voodoo,
Since you dont know bout what the previous owner or dealer itself had done to the car, why dont you have all the lubes changed. It would be best this way as you can monitor it yourself and the dates and mileage used on these lubes are known to you. Penny wise can lead to pound foolish.
Anyway, I think I saw the car u just bought. If I remember clearly, yours comes with the optional aluminium door steps, right? Does it have sunroof?
So many of us and i think we ought to meet up sometime.. :)
Cheers~!
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Thanks for the info as transmission system and its mechanics are always a mystery to me :blink:
So...in a 4WD system, you have gearbox, front diff and rear diff... right?
Rear diff is where the AYC is located... right?
center/front diff = transfer case/assembly... right?
That means I will need -
transmission oil - 2.8L
transfer oil - 0.6L
rear diff - 0.7L
I noticed the workshop uses same spec lube for the g/box and front diff while different one for the rear diff - how bad is this practice?
Yeah you're right - the workshop charged for 6L and I counted all the bottles... damn!!! But still have slightly less than 1L remaining - so may not be that bad :)
So...in a 4WD system, you have gearbox, front diff and rear diff... right?
Rear diff is where the AYC is located... right?
center/front diff = transfer case/assembly... right?
That means I will need -
transmission oil - 2.8L
transfer oil - 0.6L
rear diff - 0.7L
I noticed the workshop uses same spec lube for the g/box and front diff while different one for the rear diff - how bad is this practice?
Yeah you're right - the workshop charged for 6L and I counted all the bottles... damn!!!
But still have slightly less than 1L remaining - so may not be that bad :)Wow Notiguy, I was so lost in reading what you advised but its all starting to clear up but still a bit fuzzy about it. Too many terminology in one sitting lol. Thanks will make sure I cut n paste the advice and save it for reference. Yeah the car is sitting in the corner at the end of Jalan Imbi. Oh and yes Noti, I need to know prices, thats whats most important.. need a rough quotation so that I can start budgetting ahead. The car should be on the road within the next week or so. Laters thanks for all the help.
Much Appreciated
Much Appreciated
Wow Notiguy, I was so lost in reading what you advised but its all starting to clear up but still a bit fuzzy about it. Too many terminology in one sitting lol. Thanks will make sure I cut n paste the advice and save it for reference. Yeah the car is sitting in the corner at the end of Jalan Imbi. Oh and yes Noti, I need to know prices, thats whats most important.. need a rough quotation so that I can start budgetting ahead. The car should be on the road within the next week or so. Laters thanks for all the help.
Much Appreciated
Much Appreciated
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so u r the buyer "JEFF" for the siler evo 7 ? hehehe....seen your car....really immaculate condition :) gud buy
i was there a few days after but too late :) hehehe
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heard dat your car does not have xenon ? care to share on your pricing n interest ar friend ?
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VooDoo,
Any plans for upgrades? Or keeping it spanking stock standard :blink: . This first thing I did was the exhaust system - de-cat and rear section - you lose a bit of low down torque (rpm below 2500) but the accelaration above that is really good :D Donno bout the hp gain - some people say +- 30hp - only dyno test can tell.
Any plans for upgrades? Or keeping it spanking stock standard :blink: . This first thing I did was the exhaust system - de-cat and rear section - you lose a bit of low down torque (rpm below 2500) but the accelaration above that is really good :D Donno bout the hp gain - some people say +- 30hp - only dyno test can tell.
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