fooh, so much technical talk. Im so lost...
NGK iridiums
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me too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! shit !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but meantime I'd rather stay dunno like a dumbass then being a super genius like mr. nismo, zephuros & devious17. coz when i know all that i'll start to act like a superstar :lol: BUT I will also need to find the solutions to my farking heart of my car. It really gives me a big huge arse time for curing it & till today problems still occuring..... damm it! 
Mr Nismo,
I've tried to up the fuel pressure... then my car looks like a gemini diesel taxi spewing out loads of fluff from the tailpipe... i can get the A/F down into the 10s but i know that it's doind no good... nothing more that just dumping fuel. From a power point of view that not helping much either. The gauge is built onto the FSE and is in the engine bay. I have tried revving the sucker to redline and i can see that the gauge shows an increase of pressure as i ope nthe throttle.
As far as the timing is concerned i checked both ways around the #1 wire loop. I read the service manual regarding this point ;) And right you are... forward direction gives different result from reverse direction.
47psi during boost bad? How come? i tot it's ok... RBs supposed to run 36 at idle and 43 on boost... that's in standard tune anyway... (this was also taken from the the service manual).
Oh I'm using the FSE double diaphragm regulator, and my ECU is more stock than my mom's car... Am using the A'pex timer's A/F readout for monitoring. i know it's a calculated value and is not representative of the actual A/F, but merely a guide.
No wideband ler... no $$$ for it! hahah!
I've tried to up the fuel pressure... then my car looks like a gemini diesel taxi spewing out loads of fluff from the tailpipe... i can get the A/F down into the 10s but i know that it's doind no good... nothing more that just dumping fuel. From a power point of view that not helping much either. The gauge is built onto the FSE and is in the engine bay. I have tried revving the sucker to redline and i can see that the gauge shows an increase of pressure as i ope nthe throttle.
As far as the timing is concerned i checked both ways around the #1 wire loop. I read the service manual regarding this point ;) And right you are... forward direction gives different result from reverse direction.
47psi during boost bad? How come? i tot it's ok... RBs supposed to run 36 at idle and 43 on boost... that's in standard tune anyway... (this was also taken from the the service manual).
Oh I'm using the FSE double diaphragm regulator, and my ECU is more stock than my mom's car... Am using the A'pex timer's A/F readout for monitoring. i know it's a calculated value and is not representative of the actual A/F, but merely a guide.
No wideband ler... no $$$ for it! hahah!
Hi zephuros,
The good thing about an in-dash fuel pressure meter is, you can monitor the fuel pressure changes during full boost, which a regulator-mounted type can't. When you rev the engine during idle, there is not much load so the injectors won't be firing that much, and the fuel pressure won't rise up that much either. Aftermarket rising rate FPR are supposed to regulates fuel pressure according to boost as I say. So lets say with the vacuum hose unplugged, fuel pressure is 47psi (around 3.2bar), so during a boost of 0.7bar (assume that is your full boost), your fuel pressure are supposed to be around 3.9bar (3.2+0.7bar). Fuel regulator holds the pressure by restricting the flow back to the fuel tank. So if your fuel pump is not pumping enough volume, and your injector is firing up, there is not much restiction in the high pressure line, hence, fuel pressure drops (again you need a in dash fuel pressure meter to confirm this, no unless provided that you cut a hole in the bonnet and stick the fuel pressure meter out aussie style). Well that doesn't necessary mean that your fuel pump is giving up. A weak regulator might give the similar situation. Now you get why I meant by 47psi during full boost is bad. Lean mixture promotes knocking heheheh... my RB20DET used to knock a lot coz I'm using a tiny winy fuel pump... someone in this forum even blew his RB20DET engine caused by weak fuel pump...
The Apexi pen timer doesn't give accurate result. It calculates the A/F by using the stock narrowband o2 sensor voltage. Any slight difference in the electrical system voltage can affect the readings, for eg. on/off aircond, on/off headlights and so on...
The good thing about an in-dash fuel pressure meter is, you can monitor the fuel pressure changes during full boost, which a regulator-mounted type can't. When you rev the engine during idle, there is not much load so the injectors won't be firing that much, and the fuel pressure won't rise up that much either. Aftermarket rising rate FPR are supposed to regulates fuel pressure according to boost as I say. So lets say with the vacuum hose unplugged, fuel pressure is 47psi (around 3.2bar), so during a boost of 0.7bar (assume that is your full boost), your fuel pressure are supposed to be around 3.9bar (3.2+0.7bar). Fuel regulator holds the pressure by restricting the flow back to the fuel tank. So if your fuel pump is not pumping enough volume, and your injector is firing up, there is not much restiction in the high pressure line, hence, fuel pressure drops (again you need a in dash fuel pressure meter to confirm this, no unless provided that you cut a hole in the bonnet and stick the fuel pressure meter out aussie style). Well that doesn't necessary mean that your fuel pump is giving up. A weak regulator might give the similar situation. Now you get why I meant by 47psi during full boost is bad. Lean mixture promotes knocking heheheh... my RB20DET used to knock a lot coz I'm using a tiny winy fuel pump... someone in this forum even blew his RB20DET engine caused by weak fuel pump...
The Apexi pen timer doesn't give accurate result. It calculates the A/F by using the stock narrowband o2 sensor voltage. Any slight difference in the electrical system voltage can affect the readings, for eg. on/off aircond, on/off headlights and so on...
nismo-san,
I agree with totally with the explanation for the regulator. As far as the pump is concerned I am sure that it is not in a state where it's about to die - i've had this happen to my old RB20DE pump and i know the symptoms. The GT-R one that's in there now seems to be much better. I even checked the fuel pump health by clamping on the incoming fuel supply...
As far as the A/F reading is concerned yes it is a calculated value based on the O2 reading. I know this only too well! haha! And it does get affected by changes in current and electrical load. I am actually planning on getting a standalone gauge but no budget for it now lar. I feel very poor this month and it's weeks til payday... sigh... any idea id the Autometer A/F meter is ok? I think it retails for around RM400 or a little under... no wideband tho...
I will start eliminating item by item to try and see which is causing the problem. Am starting with the regulator this weekend. My cousin is gonna lend me his FSE and i'll try that one. If no difference then i'll move to the next item etc... also, any idea where to get my injectors cleaned and flowed? The only place i know off is in Subang and i vowed to never go back there after they crashed my car into a tree...
sighhhh......
I agree with totally with the explanation for the regulator. As far as the pump is concerned I am sure that it is not in a state where it's about to die - i've had this happen to my old RB20DE pump and i know the symptoms. The GT-R one that's in there now seems to be much better. I even checked the fuel pump health by clamping on the incoming fuel supply...
As far as the A/F reading is concerned yes it is a calculated value based on the O2 reading. I know this only too well! haha! And it does get affected by changes in current and electrical load. I am actually planning on getting a standalone gauge but no budget for it now lar. I feel very poor this month and it's weeks til payday... sigh... any idea id the Autometer A/F meter is ok? I think it retails for around RM400 or a little under... no wideband tho...
I will start eliminating item by item to try and see which is causing the problem. Am starting with the regulator this weekend. My cousin is gonna lend me his FSE and i'll try that one. If no difference then i'll move to the next item etc... also, any idea where to get my injectors cleaned and flowed? The only place i know off is in Subang and i vowed to never go back there after they crashed my car into a tree...
sighhhh......
Mr Nismo,
any idea who makes a good in-dash A/F? Err... does it do the measuring in the engine bay and send only a signal to the gauge? I certainly don't want any fuel lines running into the cabin! hahaha! But then again, my cigarette-smoking days are over...
:)
any idea who makes a good in-dash A/F? Err... does it do the measuring in the engine bay and send only a signal to the gauge? I certainly don't want any fuel lines running into the cabin! hahaha! But then again, my cigarette-smoking days are over...
:)
I know a place in Puchong that does injectors cleaning & flow test, not sure about the exact place, can try to ask around. Crash your car into a tree? That's bad, man......
Well a weak pump doesn't necessarily mean that it'll give up anytime. It might just pump less volume of fuel during higher fuel pressure. Anyway, you can give it a try.
Not sure about the Autometer A/F. I'm using the Apexi pen-type. :P But we tune the car on wideband and monitor A/F & Knock on the HKS A/F KNOCK AMP. Heard that the Blitz A/F Analyzer works well too.
Fuel pressure meter wise, I'm running on Defi Link Display with sensors. With both the boost signal & fuel pressure signal plugged in, I can switch on the differential pressure function and monitor fuel pressure in conjunction with boost (Fuel pressure differential pressure = Fuel pressure - Boost). So in case the fuel pressure drops during high boost, the warning light flashes.
Good luck on your case mate.
Well a weak pump doesn't necessarily mean that it'll give up anytime. It might just pump less volume of fuel during higher fuel pressure. Anyway, you can give it a try.
Not sure about the Autometer A/F. I'm using the Apexi pen-type. :P But we tune the car on wideband and monitor A/F & Knock on the HKS A/F KNOCK AMP. Heard that the Blitz A/F Analyzer works well too.
Fuel pressure meter wise, I'm running on Defi Link Display with sensors. With both the boost signal & fuel pressure signal plugged in, I can switch on the differential pressure function and monitor fuel pressure in conjunction with boost (Fuel pressure differential pressure = Fuel pressure - Boost). So in case the fuel pressure drops during high boost, the warning light flashes.
Good luck on your case mate.
MrNismo,maybe you can tell us the reading between the Apexi's pen and the wide band at a fixed point? when the wide bands showing 12 what's the reading on your pen?s
Maybe from that reference MrFlintstone's pet can roughly gauge with his pen!s :lol:
Maybe from that reference MrFlintstone's pet can roughly gauge with his pen!s :lol:
devious,
i think that making a correlation between the 2 will vary from ccar to car since the electrical load experienced by one car and another will differ immensely based on the age and condition of the wires as well as other sources of electrical loading like my 3 amps! haha! No point comparing if you ask me...
Mr nismo,
Defi eh? Hmm... make more holes in my pocket man... ouch! actually i'm a lot more worried about someone smashing my window and making a getaway with my meters...
Please let me know if you know where the place is. I'd like the injectors cleaned out. By the looks of it, my halfcut came from some joker in japan who seemed to do very little in the way of maintenance on the car - you should have seen the state of the PFR5As that came out of it! Yeesh...
i think that making a correlation between the 2 will vary from ccar to car since the electrical load experienced by one car and another will differ immensely based on the age and condition of the wires as well as other sources of electrical loading like my 3 amps! haha! No point comparing if you ask me...
Mr nismo,
Defi eh? Hmm... make more holes in my pocket man... ouch! actually i'm a lot more worried about someone smashing my window and making a getaway with my meters...
Please let me know if you know where the place is. I'd like the injectors cleaned out. By the looks of it, my halfcut came from some joker in japan who seemed to do very little in the way of maintenance on the car - you should have seen the state of the PFR5As that came out of it! Yeesh...
Agreed,
I know only too well! Anyway since we are on the topic of knocking, what are the other factors that contribute to knocking? I think we have pretty much covered fuel pumps, regulators, timing and faulty readings... what else?
I read that severe exhaust backpressure can be a cause too... in my case that probably holds true since i am using a tiny 2 3/4" exhaust system! And i have a ported rear muffler too which does not help! Anything else?
Signed,
flintstone's pet
I know only too well! Anyway since we are on the topic of knocking, what are the other factors that contribute to knocking? I think we have pretty much covered fuel pumps, regulators, timing and faulty readings... what else?
I read that severe exhaust backpressure can be a cause too... in my case that probably holds true since i am using a tiny 2 3/4" exhaust system! And i have a ported rear muffler too which does not help! Anything else?
Signed,
flintstone's pet
Wrong plug heat range, plugs too hot, carbon deposit built up in combustion chambers, sharp edges in combustion chambers, too high the boost, lean mixture which could be caused by injectors, aging wires which give false signals, crappy or dirty fuel, clogged fuel line or fuel filter which caused restricted fuel flow, high intake air temperature, engine temperature, faulty crank angle sensor, a lot more else...
Devious,
dunno ler... must go and see... if i see a red cefiro around there then i call you heheh!
Mr nismo,
you are like a walking service manual... good good...
I think i shall look into the fuel filter too.. i changed it like 20000 clicks ago. May need to look at it. Another thing that has been a problem since day one is my electricals... just today i checked with a multitester and got 13.08v at the battery and then my SAFC II tells me that the ECU is reading 13.5v. Interesting huh? Also i had huge problems of insufficient current going to the fuel pump and ended up pulling a new wire (with fuse of course) from the battery all the way thru the cabin and into the fuel pump relay. Got clean supply back there now. Still the erratic voltage in the car haunts me. I think i shall try and get the entire R32 main harness and engine harness into my car... right now only the EFI harnesses #1 and #2 are in there. The rest is the original Cefiro wiring.
dunno ler... must go and see... if i see a red cefiro around there then i call you heheh!
Mr nismo,
you are like a walking service manual... good good...
I think i shall look into the fuel filter too.. i changed it like 20000 clicks ago. May need to look at it. Another thing that has been a problem since day one is my electricals... just today i checked with a multitester and got 13.08v at the battery and then my SAFC II tells me that the ECU is reading 13.5v. Interesting huh? Also i had huge problems of insufficient current going to the fuel pump and ended up pulling a new wire (with fuse of course) from the battery all the way thru the cabin and into the fuel pump relay. Got clean supply back there now. Still the erratic voltage in the car haunts me. I think i shall try and get the entire R32 main harness and engine harness into my car... right now only the EFI harnesses #1 and #2 are in there. The rest is the original Cefiro wiring.
I'm really not familiar with electrical shits, but then, doesn't it make sense that the ECU is getting slightly higher voltage readings because of the lil bit more resistance in the loom? Plus, the readings from S-AFC might have slight deviation compared to that of the tester (well just like the A/F readings from the timer lol).
Not sure how the Cefiro harness differs from the Skyline harness. More signal ground maybe?
Not sure how the Cefiro harness differs from the Skyline harness. More signal ground maybe?
Mrnismo,
ahh, the voltage difference is i guess a result of poor conductivity in the doy harness. I know this is the case coz last time once i did a resistance check and found out that some systems had a much higher resistance than others. Could be just down to poor grounding by the guy who wired my car up after the halfcut went in. Anyway besides that, i think that the R32 wiring from tmy 2nd halfcut has to go in man! during the conversion i only had the EFI harness #1 and #2 installed. The main harnness is still the original Cefiro one. I think i'll have that one installated. Need to take a week off work and do it. Ugh.
Oh, back to fuel pressure - cranked it up to 40psi at idle and that climbed all the way past 50 on boost. Problem is that too much fuel now going into the engine... right up to the point where the fuel is shorting the plugs. At high revs and open throttle the car started to misfire - loads of black smoke out the back too! Cranked the pressure back down to 36psi and it was fine then! :)
ahh, the voltage difference is i guess a result of poor conductivity in the doy harness. I know this is the case coz last time once i did a resistance check and found out that some systems had a much higher resistance than others. Could be just down to poor grounding by the guy who wired my car up after the halfcut went in. Anyway besides that, i think that the R32 wiring from tmy 2nd halfcut has to go in man! during the conversion i only had the EFI harness #1 and #2 installed. The main harnness is still the original Cefiro one. I think i'll have that one installated. Need to take a week off work and do it. Ugh.
Oh, back to fuel pressure - cranked it up to 40psi at idle and that climbed all the way past 50 on boost. Problem is that too much fuel now going into the engine... right up to the point where the fuel is shorting the plugs. At high revs and open throttle the car started to misfire - loads of black smoke out the back too! Cranked the pressure back down to 36psi and it was fine then! :)
walaweii........
wa sula pening...to many info.... :wacko:
but then very informative..
wa sula pening...to many info.... :wacko:
but then very informative..
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