Replacing the alternator

[Izso]

Hi guys,

My cars alternator IC is dying and so now I'm sourcing for a suitable replacement. Can anyone advise what's a good alternator brand to buy? What ampere?

Stock is 70A, some have recommended getting the 90A one but I have no idea what car uses 90A. Would this be the Perdana one? Plug and play into Wira?

Any brands, suggestions, ideas would be appreciated.

 

[vr2turbo]

Hi guys,

My cars alternator IC is dying and so now I'm sourcing for a suitable replacement. Can anyone advise what's a good alternator brand to buy? What ampere?

Stock is 70A, some have recommended getting the 90A one but I have no idea what car uses 90A. Would this be the Perdana one? Plug and play into Wira?

Any brands, suggestions, ideas would be appreciated.

Have to get the one that fits, especially plug and play. Mounting points is the main issue.
My VR all this while tried chop shop ones, don't last. So have been using recon ones. Last one they could not find exact fit so spare part shop recommend Perdana ones. Seems plug and play with VR, only the electrical ports are at different place but since my wires were long enough have use that....

 

[papagoines]

sorry for out-of-topic question... just want to clarify....

1. can we upgrade current alternator output? for example 45A to 60A or even 70A?
2. If can, is there any adverse impact on the said alternator?

Reason asking because my kancil's electrical capacity seems overwhelmed... for example during night with full aircon on and headlamps also on.. when I turned the steering (electrical power steeering from daihatsu mira)... the volt reading drops drastically (digital volt meter = flashing "0.0v")... at that time the steering felt sluggish and the headlamp dimmed... sometimes my cd player (no amps whatsoever) just turned off by itself and turn back on again

...oh! one more thing, I've upgraded my stock radiator fan motor to a more powerful one from hafkat, pomen says still came from daihatsu mira hafkat, but the fan now sounded like its coming from a car with bigger cc

 

[Izso]

Papag : Sounds like your alternator is over stressed. You probably need an upgrade. Either that or your grounding points are gone.

My case turning on the signal indicator now resets my HU. WTF.

Oh and larger Amp alternator will just affect your cars performance to some extent. But a small upgrade like 70A to 90A isn't going to be a big deal. It's when you shoot more than 20% then you'll feel it.

 

[papagoines]

Papag : Sounds like your alternator is over stressed. You probably need an upgrade. Either that or your grounding points are gone.

My case turning on the signal indicator now resets my HU. WTF.

Oh and larger Amp alternator will just affect your cars performance to some extent. But a small upgrade like 70A to 90A isn't going to be a big deal. It's when you shoot more than 20% then you'll feel it.

thanks.... now I know why my pomen ask me whether I want to upgrade current grounding to a beefier cable, might as well listen to him and go on from there

now I just need to confirm the current alternator output... most says its around 40A.... if applying the 20% rule, I shouldn't maxed more than 50A if my math are correct :stoned:... if the upgraded grounding isn't doing any good, then proceed upgrade the alternator

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

iszo for your 4g1x car i think those perdana version can fit... 100A if not mistaken....

double check the mounting point first....


as for my car last time 4g92p....quite a headache......only available on 60A...lucky searching around found a good one from halfcut 4g93sohc auto..which is rated 90A...quite good and a decent upgrade for me....so now no more headlight dimming when a/c cut in+wiper on+radio on with power amp at night traffic jam....

 

[vr2turbo]

Papag : Sounds like your alternator is over stressed. You probably need an upgrade. Either that or your grounding points are gone.

My case turning on the signal indicator now resets my HU. WTF.

Oh and larger Amp alternator will just affect your cars performance to some extent. But a small upgrade like 70A to 90A isn't going to be a big deal. It's when you shoot more than 20% then you'll feel it.

Sure not wiring problem?

 

[Izso]

Sure not wiring problem?

Yeah. It's confirmed not wiring problem. My HU is powered directly from the battery so if the alternator falters, the HU dies. And have checked a lot of other things.

Anyway, I just placed my order for a "new" recon 90A alternator. More power for my electronics. Hopefully this doesn't affect my cars performance. Will have a new DIY to post up soon.

 

[vr2turbo]

Yeah. It's confirmed not wiring problem. My HU is powered directly from the battery so if the alternator falters, the HU dies. And have checked a lot of other things.

Anyway, I just placed my order for a "new" recon 90A alternator. More power for my electronics. Hopefully this doesn't affect my cars performance. Will have a new DIY to post up soon.

For HU to reset means total power cut....:hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

For HU to reset means total power cut....:hmmmm:

Not really. Say the alternator is dishing out 70A, the aircon is on, headlamps is on, wiper is on, HU is on (direct power from the battery) and suddenly the signal light is turned on. If the alternator is in good shape it'll be able to spread out the current whilst draining a bit from the other devices (dimming headlamp effect). If say the alternator is now just dishing out bare minimum current to the devices and you overload it, something will give. Aircon unlikely since it's belt driven as well, headlamps and dash lights the draw is probably negligible. Then the biggest draw would probably get cut off which in this case is my HU. And since my HU can't run at any current other than the base requirement, it'll shut down.

The most interesting thing about this is if I leave my blinkers on, the HU stays off. Once I switch off the blinkers (or something else) the HU comes back to life. And to make it worse, this is an intermittent problem so I rarely ever get to show it to my troubleshooter. Drexchan has only ever experienced it once out of the 4 times I've gone to see him about the issue.

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Not really. Say the alternator is dishing out 70A, the aircon is on, headlamps is on, wiper is on, HU is on (direct power from the battery) and suddenly the signal light is turned on. If the alternator is in good shape it'll be able to spread out the current whilst draining a bit from the other devices (dimming headlamp effect). If say the alternator is now just dishing out bare minimum current to the devices and you overload it, something will give. Aircon unlikely since it's belt driven as well, headlamps and dash lights the draw is probably negligible. Then the biggest draw would probably get cut off which in this case is my HU. And since my HU can't run at any current other than the base requirement, it'll shut down.

The most interesting thing about this is if I leave my blinkers on, the HU stays off. Once I switch off the blinkers (or something else) the HU comes back to life. And to make it worse, this is an intermittent problem so I rarely ever get to show it to my troubleshooter. Drexchan has only ever experienced it once out of the 4 times I've gone to see him about the issue.

try on wiper+headlight+signal+a/c+audio at the same time and see if it still happens... :p


btw...bigger rating alternator not only gives good life for electrical device and battery life...but also improve engine performance a bit with better response...but not significant la...just barely improving it..especially if the car's electrical support not enough...the supply into ecu also not really stable......(same concept for the voltage stabilizer working) with great alternator current support....the supply to ecu should be more stable and makes it work better....then no need those voltage stabilizer apa capacitor bank or what...

 

[vr2turbo]

Not really. Say the alternator is dishing out 70A, the aircon is on, headlamps is on, wiper is on, HU is on (direct power from the battery) and suddenly the signal light is turned on. If the alternator is in good shape it'll be able to spread out the current whilst draining a bit from the other devices (dimming headlamp effect). If say the alternator is now just dishing out bare minimum current to the devices and you overload it, something will give. Aircon unlikely since it's belt driven as well, headlamps and dash lights the draw is probably negligible. Then the biggest draw would probably get cut off which in this case is my HU. And since my HU can't run at any current other than the base requirement, it'll shut down.

The most interesting thing about this is if I leave my blinkers on, the HU stays off. Once I switch off the blinkers (or something else) the HU comes back to life. And to make it worse, this is an intermittent problem so I rarely ever get to show it to my troubleshooter. Drexchan has only ever experienced it once out of the 4 times I've gone to see him about the issue.

Then shouldn't some power to come from the battery if the alternator is weak?

First time I hear of HU power off because of blinkers....:hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

try on wiper+headlight+signal+a/c+audio at the same time and see if it still happens... :p


btw...bigger rating alternator not only gives good life for electrical device and battery life...but also improve engine performance a bit with better response...but not significant la...just barely improving it..especially if the car's electrical support not enough...the supply into ecu also not really stable......(same concept for the voltage stabilizer working) with great alternator current support....the supply to ecu should be more stable and makes it work better....then no need those voltage stabilizer apa capacitor bank or what...

I've done a headlight (high light), air con full blast coldest setting, reverse gear engaged, HU, 3 amplifiers blasting techno song and wiper on test. Everything is ok and the light dims a little with the bass but that's it. When it works it works great. When it doesn't work, the blinkers will reset my HU. Freaking weird.

And this is the first time I've heard a bigger ampere alternator will improve car performance. I thought the bigger the ampere the heavier the alternator so more effort is needed do drive it? If more effort means parasitic drain on the engine power therefore less overall power no meh?

Then shouldn't some power to come from the battery if the alternator is weak?

First time I hear of HU power off because of blinkers....:hmmmm:

I dunno. When I test the battery with a battery tester it shows that it's in top condition. It's the first time I've ever heard blinker resetting HU too. You know me. I'm all for DIY but when it comes to problems I can't resolve I usually post in the forum

 

[vr2turbo]

I've done a headlight (high light), air con full blast coldest setting, reverse gear engaged, HU, 3 amplifiers blasting techno song and wiper on test. Everything is ok and the light dims a little with the bass but that's it. When it works it works great. When it doesn't work, the blinkers will reset my HU. Freaking weird.

And this is the first time I've heard a bigger ampere alternator will improve car performance. I thought the bigger the ampere the heavier the alternator so more effort is needed do drive it? If more effort means parasitic drain on the engine power therefore less overall power no meh?




I dunno. When I test the battery with a battery tester it shows that it's in top condition. It's the first time I've ever heard blinker resetting HU too. You know me. I'm all for DIY but when it comes to problems I can't resolve I usually post in the forum

Not sure if the higher amp alternator will have significant drain on your engine power to drive it unlike a bigger air con compressor that is a lot heavier to drive.

Yup, asking in the forum is another way, unless one who had a similar problem that was fixed, but like you first time hearing about it, so cannot help....:rolleyes:

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

I've done a headlight (high light), air con full blast coldest setting, reverse gear engaged, HU, 3 amplifiers blasting techno song and wiper on test. Everything is ok and the light dims a little with the bass but that's it. When it works it works great. When it doesn't work, the blinkers will reset my HU. Freaking weird.

And this is the first time I've heard a bigger ampere alternator will improve car performance. I thought the bigger the ampere the heavier the alternator so more effort is needed do drive it? If more effort means parasitic drain on the engine power therefore less overall power no meh?




I dunno. When I test the battery with a battery tester it shows that it's in top condition. It's the first time I've ever heard blinker resetting HU too. You know me. I'm all for DIY but when it comes to problems I can't resolve I usually post in the forum

i mean performance gain not that u can really feel it...at most highest gain maybe u can feel better engine respond accelerating from idle...or minor fc improve......especially for old car with unstable supply to ecu....

heavier to drive maybe...but really close to negligible la....only magnetic resistant in rotation..no mechanical load like a/c compressor like unker vr said


and yep me also pelik your problem...maybe u can re-check back your power supply taken from which relay/power source...especially for the switching on/off...not the main big power cable to amp/hu....(if not mistaken most audio got 2 power source....one that is always on for main source...another is pilot for switching it on/off

 

[stupidcar]

Not sure if the higher amp alternator will have significant drain on your engine power to drive it unlike a bigger air con compressor that is a lot heavier to drive.

Yup, asking in the forum is another way, unless one who had a similar problem that was fixed, but like you first time hearing about it, so cannot help....:rolleyes:

I think the alternator just run when the engine is running.
It won't drain the engine power like superchargers.

 

[twistedichc]

I've done a headlight (high light), air con full blast coldest setting, reverse gear engaged, HU, 3 amplifiers blasting techno song and wiper on test. Everything is ok and the light dims a little with the bass but that's it. When it works it works great. When it doesn't work, the blinkers will reset my HU. Freaking weird.

And this is the first time I've heard a bigger ampere alternator will improve car performance. I thought the bigger the ampere the heavier the alternator so more effort is needed do drive it? If more effort means parasitic drain on the engine power therefore less overall power no meh?




I dunno. When I test the battery with a battery tester it shows that it's in top condition. It's the first time I've ever heard blinker resetting HU too. You know me. I'm all for DIY but when it comes to problems I can't resolve I usually post in the forum

if yu're running HU + 3 amps, maybe u should change ur ACC fuse edi, it's overloading a bit but doesn't blow u're fuse @ u could try adding a relay for u'r sound system remote switch 4 those 4 items like i did. if change to slightly bigger alternator, it may effect u'r pully a bit but does not effect u'r car performance, if it does, i think the first thing u'll notice is a drop wit u'r RPM coz u'r engine is running heavier like when u on u'r a-cond the RPM drops (maybe):hmmmm:

 

[vr2turbo]

i mean performance gain not that u can really feel it...at most highest gain maybe u can feel better engine respond accelerating from idle...or minor fc improve......especially for old car with unstable supply to ecu....

heavier to drive maybe...but really close to negligible la....only magnetic resistant in rotation..no mechanical load like a/c compressor like unker vr said


and yep me also pelik your problem...maybe u can re-check back your power supply taken from which relay/power source...especially for the switching on/off...not the main big power cable to amp/hu....(if not mistaken most audio got 2 power source....one that is always on for main source...another is pilot for switching it on/off

Yup, one is standby power, but his running one is tapped direct from battery already....:hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

I think the alternator just run when the engine is running.
It won't drain the engine power like superchargers.

No la. Try driving with a 100A alternator instead of your stock 70A and the different in power is very obvious. I dunno about supercharger but performance will be affected for sure.

if yu're running HU + 3 amps, maybe u should change ur ACC fuse edi, it's overloading a bit but doesn't blow u're fuse @ u could try adding a relay for u'r sound system remote switch 4 those 4 items like i did. if change to slightly bigger alternator, it may effect u'r pully a bit but does not effect u'r car performance, if it does, i think the first thing u'll notice is a drop wit u'r RPM coz u'r engine is running heavier like when u on u'r a-cond the RPM drops (maybe):hmmmm:

Hmm.. ACC fule overloading eh.. that's a possibility. The fuse I'm using is a 100A one so that should be the bare minimum for it to work no?

And adding a relay to my HU and amps power? How does that work?


Btw VR2 : My car you should know by now isn't standard. I have a direct 10ga wire from the battery directly to the HU for constant power, a VS that only has one lead (positive) and using a larger NS70 battery. Wiring I'm pretty sure I did properly but worth checking like what Twistedichc said. May try that.

 

[twistedichc]

Yup, one is standby power, but his running one is tapped direct from battery already....:hmmmm:

if head unit reset (e.g all radio freq setting lost & need to set back) that means power supply from batt is cut out, unless he means that it turned off & then on again without losing it's memory like the radio freq it's definiely the remote supply problem

---------- Post added at 03:24 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:12 PM ----------

No la. Try driving with a 100A alternator instead of your stock 70A and the different in power is very obvious. I dunno about supercharger but performance will be affected for sure.


Hmm.. ACC fule overloading eh.. that's a possibility. The fuse I'm using is a 100A one so that should be the bare minimum for it to work no?

And adding a relay to my HU and amps power? How does that work?


Btw VR2 : My car you should know by now isn't standard. I have a direct 10ga wire from the battery directly to the HU for constant power, a VS that only has one lead (positive) and using a larger NS70 battery. Wiring I'm pretty sure I did properly but worth checking like what Twistedichc said. May try that.

now i pressume your single HU original remote wire turn on all of the 4 ice items rite. add a relay from u'r HU remote wire. like we all know the 4@5 pin relay that we used e.g for that power horn is actually a switch that allows the battery supply direct to the working unit & it is turned on by the original power supply from the horn button (power from ur dashboard fuse).in this case, add another wire direct from batt to the relay, than the output should go to the 4 items in your ice, than your original remote wire for your HU acts as the trigger to the relay.