Tesco Engine Oil Sales is on

[Izso]

For those who buy too much oil and end up never finishing it - Give the remainder to meee



I can use it to flush my engine!

Btw, Kent Fisher : Doesn't API rake random samples ever so occassionally to confirm that manufacturers are sticking to the certification requirements? If I'm not mistaken TUV does that

 

[stupidcar]

Bardahl have engine oil. Was using in my VR for many years already.

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Cheap FS usually Group 3 synthetics.....

Group 3?

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Group 3 means low quality FS
Group 1 Motul, Chemlube, Royal Purple, M7

 

[stupidcar]

Group 3 means low quality FS
Group 1 Motul, Chemlube, Royal Purple, M7

Adoi, then Bardhal which Group?

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Adoi, then Bardhal which Group?

Vr2 said is Group 3 ma haha

 

[stupidcar]

Vr2 said is Group 3 ma haha

How do they differentiate low quality oil?
In what terms?

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Not sure, what about this oil?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945650_10200975852146239_1547575766_n.jpg

Only RM69.90 for SS....Can use ka? heard some bad reviews that it could be locally blend or repacked from a forum in year 2005.
Saying dealers who hit targets gets some benefits like dinner in genting or trip to china or something.

Saying This Oil is cheap and yet dealers get quite a good margin of profit from it.

 

[DeaconFrost]

Hi all, I am Kent from Florida and recently I was touring around South East Asia on assignment. I am working as standard observer in a company which helps American Petroleum Institute to monitor the quality of the products made by API EOLCS licensees.

There are number of products that I have found which is made by non API EOLCS licensees, are displaying API registered mark.

Some legitimate licensees are found marketing products with API registered mark with content that has different chemical and performance properties from the test sample they had sent to API EOLCS.

Hi Kent,

Can you help me to explain further regarding this statement from wiki:

Most engines built before 1985 have the flat/cleave bearing style systems of construction, which is sensitive to reducing zinc and phosphorus. Example; in API SG rated oils, this was at the 1200-1300 ppm level for zinc and phosphorus, where the current SM is under 600 ppm. This reduction in anti-wear chemicals in oil has caused premature failures of camshafts and other high pressure bearings in many older automobiles and has been blamed for pre-mature failure of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor gear that is meshed with camshaft gear in some modern engines.

1. Does this mean that the latest API standard is not necessarily suitable for older engines which require a certain level for zinc and phosphorus?

I have a JDM B18C Type R engine and Honda recommends API SJ oil.

 

[Izso]

Group 3 means low quality FS
Group 1 Motul, Chemlube, Royal Purple, M7

Er.. you got it wrong.

Most if not all reputable brands use Group III base oils. The more expensive lubes like Ravenol (5L pack) uses group IV base oils. The group V base oils are ester based oils, Redline, Motul and a few others have these type of oils.

I personally can't tell a difference between these oils in my car so I don't usually go for group IV or V base oil FS oils. Too expensive. Race cars would probably benefit.

Group II and group I are pretty rare but I'll bet you wouldn't be able to feel or tell the difference if put into your car. Just that the $ paid for it wouldn't be worth it.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Er.. you got it wrong.

Most if not all reputable brands use Group III base oils. The more expensive lubes like Ravenol (5L pack) uses group IV base oils. The group V base oils are ester based oils, Redline, Motul and a few others have these type of oils.

I personally can't tell a difference between these oils in my car so I don't usually go for group IV or V base oil FS oils. Too expensive. Race cars would probably benefit.

Group II and group I are pretty rare but I'll bet you wouldn't be able to feel or tell the difference if put into your car. Just that the $ paid for it wouldn't be worth it.

Haha! Thanks bro, i was only kacau-ing stupid car on the groupings

 

[ixeo]

Er.. you got it wrong.

Most if not all reputable brands use Group III base oils. The more expensive lubes like Ravenol (5L pack) uses group IV base oils. The group V base oils are ester based oils, Redline, Motul and a few others have these type of oils.

I personally can't tell a difference between these oils in my car so I don't usually go for group IV or V base oil FS oils. Too expensive. Race cars would probably benefit.

Group II and group I are pretty rare but I'll bet you wouldn't be able to feel or tell the difference if put into your car. Just that the $ paid for it wouldn't be worth it.

Group I and II are mineral oils.. the nastiest, cheapest shit you can pour into your engine..

Regarding oils, simple rule... if you have never heard of the brand, don't use it. Stick to stuff by big companies like Shell, Petronas, Castrol and you'll never go wrong.

People who use stuff like Ducatus Engine Oil, their engine Doomed and they become Demented.
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/general-talk/434155-ducatus.html

 

[stupidcar]

Er.. you got it wrong.

Most if not all reputable brands use Group III base oils. The more expensive lubes like Ravenol (5L pack) uses group IV base oils. The group V base oils are ester based oils, Redline, Motul and a few others have these type of oils.

I personally can't tell a difference between these oils in my car so I don't usually go for group IV or V base oil FS oils. Too expensive. Race cars would probably benefit.

Group II and group I are pretty rare but I'll bet you wouldn't be able to feel or tell the difference if put into your car. Just that the $ paid for it wouldn't be worth it.

So how do they determine quality oil except Ester based oils?

Haha! Thanks bro, i was only kacau-ing stupid car on the groupings

-__-

 

[vr2turbo]

Want to let go my just bought Mobil 1 FS 5w-50 rally formula from Tesco last week... Reason being engine leaking oil so no use put in FS... now just putting in mineral only.

vr2turbo,
Buy from UMW itself got discount? Is it cheaper to buy from sparepart or from them directly then?

Well, depends if spare part shop gives discount or not? Have not bought since last years as I still have stocks left over from warehouse sales purchase. You can give them a call to compare....

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Not sure, what about this oil?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945650_10200975852146239_1547575766_n.jpg

Only RM69.90 for SS....Can use ka? heard some bad reviews that it could be locally blend or repacked from a forum in year 2005.
Saying dealers who hit targets gets some benefits like dinner in genting or trip to china or something.

Saying This Oil is cheap and yet dealers get quite a good margin of profit from it.

SS at RM69.90 for unknown quality, might as well pay RM79.90 for branded....

---------- Post added at 04:42 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:40 PM ----------

Haha! Thanks bro, i was only kacau-ing stupid car on the groupings

kacau also must get your facts correct.....

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Well, depends if spare part shop gives discount or not? Have not bought since last years as I still have stocks left over from warehouse sales purchase. You can give them a call to compare....

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:39 PM ----------



SS at RM69.90 for unknown quality, might as well pay RM79.90 for branded....

---------- Post added at 04:42 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:40 PM ----------



kacau also must get your facts correct.....

LOL! Cuz i sendiri not sure to actually get it right

 

[vr2turbo]

LOL! Cuz i sendiri not sure to actually get it right

Means can bluff, bluff first.....hahahahaha

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Means can bluff, bluff first.....hahahahaha

Bingo! :top:

 

[Izso]

So how do they determine quality oil except Ester based oils?

Quality is determined based on their certification. API, TUV, the Euro certification (forgot what its called). Follow that and you'll be fine. Btw, look under my statistics and search all the threads I created. I wrote one article about Engine oils.

 

[Kent Fisher]

For those who buy too much oil and end up never finishing it - Give the remainder to meee



I can use it to flush my engine!

Btw, Kent Fisher : Doesn't API rake random samples ever so occassionally to confirm that manufacturers are sticking to the certification requirements? If I'm not mistaken TUV does that

Yes, That's my job.

---------- Post added at 05:17 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:14 PM ----------

Quality is determined based on their certification. API, TUV, the Euro certification (forgot what its called). Follow that and you'll be fine. Btw, look under my statistics and search all the threads I created. I wrote one article about Engine oils.

Some do not follow but have those certification marks displayed.

 

[Izso]

Some do not follow but have those certification marks displayed.

Well if that's the case the only thing we can truly rely on is the brand?

 

[Kent Fisher]

Well if that's the case the only thing we can truly rely on is the brand?

There is no definite answer to this, some big boys are playing dirty, too.