20V Standalone or Piggy for Highcams?

Nicely explained ... cool ...

a few more questions to share ..

1 - I am using as RWD with T50 gb... must use the speed sensor ? ... it will be a hassle to convert cable to digital ...

2 - Tuning can be done with TPS or MAPS only right ? .. cannot be both ...

3 - I need the below items
- Haltech S500
- Wiring works
- Cam installation
- Engine tuning
Basically that is all right ? ..

thank you very much to all Sifus for the valuable advise ...

1.You can use speed sensor IF your speedo is the electronic type(20v svt/bt).No problem converting,my 20V KE70 with T50 also use speed sensor+SVT meter.

2.For Platinum series Haltech,tuning for fuel can be both,TPS with MAP compensation,but for Ignition only can be either TPS or MAP.This is not a problem.

3.Yes basically thats it if you already have other things,and you need ballast resistors if you want to use Sprint500 on 20v because the S500 cannot support low impedence injectors.
 
Nicely explained ... cool ...

a few more questions to share ..

1 - I am using as RWD with T50 gb... must use the speed sensor ? ... it will be a hassle to convert cable to digital ...

2 - Tuning can be done with TPS or MAPS only right ? .. cannot be both ...

3 - I need the below items
- Haltech S500
- Wiring works
- Cam installation
- Engine tuning
Basically that is all right ? ..

thank you very much to all Sifus for the valuable advise ...

I'll jump to 3-cam installation - Dont underestimate the importance of this step.

Get the correct cam specs from cam manufacturer.If Toda go this site:-www.toda-racing.co.jp
settings differ if running vvt or non vvt

Get an experienced mechanic with the timing plate(mounted at crank) and dial gauges(2 at least;one for piston and one for cam) for an accurate setting

since you getting valve springs make sure you get the right shimming and check your valves and valve seats.

Since you are at this stage consider dynamic balancing the engine (and flywheel),port /polish;new bearings etc. all = $$$$ but then you will really enjoy the (group A ???) engine and have confidence to pull 9k+ revs.

Other BT sifu's have more experience on ecu so I can only suggest you get one that removes speed and rev cut.Once the engine done right then the performance depends on the ecu and tuner else you will always be second guessiing and troubleshooting.

Cheers and good luck.
 
i miss up one thing.. adaptronic do have VVT control ..

u can turn on the launch controller ... it really fun playing with fire. i love the launch controller.. bang bang bang~ lol

i selling n provide tuning microtech and adaptronic for toyota / mitsubishi in sarawak.

:) if u do need any tuning info regarding microtech or adaptronic, can PM me.
note**** I dun provide spoon feeding service. :D :D..

err any way haltech n motec, both also powerful ecu as well, nothing much to worry about how good a ecu to be perform, as long u can or to find a good tuner.. ur car will be tip top . even a cheap DIY auto tune mega squid also work really well too.. just depend on ur budget.


this is my online business site...
http://www.facebook.com/pages/J-Auto-EFI-Engineering/135496003160737

My AE86 with E420C.

I do love microtech as well, i have it on my previous drag car.. but for street n performance. i found adaptronic could do it better for both.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/297934_253636374680867_105523069492199_780464_673771376_n.jpg
 
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Alamak .. another headache ... CAM setting ... guess better I sell of the cam and life is more simple that way ... :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
[/QUOTE]
how your car,any noticable ecu learning back?
[/QUOTE]

Nope, didn't notice any.
Thks for asking...:wavey:
 
chew, u also use haltech in ur SNF monster?

Always an Adaptronic E420C . And the last this car went in (rd5), the internals still remain stock.

Next round, full race internals. Can't wait to drive :)
 
Just to share my experience,since I have work with few aftermarket ecu out there(motec,microtech,adaptronic,freedom,haltech,pfc,ecuflash)..in most cases,give any of those ecu a good tuner,and your car will be good,but sometimes we need to look at the ecu architecture,coz every ecu is built differently even though it can perform the same thing.(Some of u know I do sell haltech and do tuning),but I'll give my honest opinion.

Adaptronic is one good example of a good ecu,its cheap and very well equipped,I like it but I wish the software can be more graphical and not too technical..no need to mention motec and haltech,they are long time in the business,they should be good,the new line of haltech is as good as some motec if not their highest end ecu...As my experience with microtech,I agree with TE27,it is more suitable for track use,the system is simple with few i/o..but they are well known for producing good power and response.

For everyday driving refinement,can't go wrong with japanese ecu,good idle,drivability and economy,and they do give good power output too,mainly because they are plug and play,and the base map is already there.other wire in ecu,we need to spend a lot of time tuning the drivability.

So,almost all ecu is good,but not all ecu made the same,and the biggest factor is the tuning..er,that's for now :-)
 
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See, put in cusco's hand, sure magic .. Give it a try buddies! He knows his recipe and how to cook it to your taste.. Spicy, Salty, Sweet, .. anything goes..
 
Very interesting and useful topic.
In this case, go for standalone unit instead of piggy back.
Reason:
1. Your cam spec maybe require fuel and ignition mapping tuning that go beyond the piggy back ecu capability to compensate it. (in order to harvest the max capability)
2. Piggy back only alter the signal from your AFM or MAP sensor in order to provide the correct fueling and ignition. It still read the existing mapping on the stock ecu....(google it and you'll know how it work)

Standalone ecu is tuner dependent. It's not about ECU brand but of coz premium ecu provide better capability for tuner to work around.

---------- Post added at 10:49 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

Another thing, remember to dial you cam after the installation.
Power output is totally different if you dial the cam properly.
for your cam just dial: intake 110 degree, ex: 110 degree
it's easy to dial the cam but you need need the right tools to do it properly.
 
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Very interesting and useful topic.
In this case, go for standalone unit instead of piggy back.
Reason:
1. Your cam spec maybe require fuel and ignition mapping tuning that go beyond the piggy back ecu capability to compensate it. (in order to harvest the max capability)
2. Piggy back only alter the signal from your AFM or MAP sensor in order to provide the correct fueling and ignition. It still read the existing mapping on the stock ecu....(google it and you'll know how it work)

Standalone ecu is tuner dependent. It's not about ECU brand but of coz premium ecu provide better capability for tuner to work around.

---------- Post added at 10:49 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

Another thing, remember to dial you cam after the installation.
Power output is totally different if you dial the cam properly.
for your cam just dial: intake 110 degree, ex: 110 degree
it's easy to dial the cam but you need need the right tools to do it properly.

Hie Derrick ...

met you before ... anyway ... thing is ... cam installation in one place and tuning of ECU at another ...
Just wonder if I can still drive after the cam setting but using Standard ECU ...
As of the standalone part ... I understand much more than before ... only now ... gotta check out the offer ... and let mech see my car 1st ...

very useful advise I am getting from this thread

Thank you very much to all SIFU ! ...

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:47 AM ----------

Cam card says ...

4 throttle ... 288deg ... best is at 100 to 105 deg

should I follow 110 deg ? ...
 
how about degree setting for this cam profile
IN 288 lift 9.2
out 277 lift 9.0

any :idea:

Singlethrottle only up to 272 ... 108~115deg
4 throttle from 288 onwards ... 100~105deg

I can post my cam card later tonight ... gotta go to work ...

Lift is not mentioned ...
 
Hie Derrick ...

met you before ... anyway ... thing is ... cam installation in one place and tuning of ECU at another ...
Just wonder if I can still drive after the cam setting but using Standard ECU ...
As of the standalone part ... I understand much more than before ... only now ... gotta check out the offer ... and let mech see my car 1st ...

very useful advise I am getting from this thread

Thank you very much to all SIFU ! ...

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:47 AM ----------

Cam card says ...

4 throttle ... 288deg ... best is at 100 to 105 deg

should I follow 110 deg ? ...

You can dial according the cam card and see what kind of respond and power that you get.
I did that before but 110/110 degree still provide better respond and power band that I want for cam above 272 degree.

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:46 AM ----------

Anyway, I'm not Derrick... :)
 
I was laughing my ass off when 'Hi derrick' .. Let's try 110/125 degree next time ..
 
110/125 ??? are you sure. How are you going to lock and align your timing with the 125 degree?????
I just done my cam dial for 20v. best respond is 108/110....
it's depend on the cam degree anyway. refer to your cam chart.
 
Also depends on accurate shimming and lift.
:adore::adore: respect you guys who have tried different cams(duration and lifts)

272 and above would need probably a 4-1 rather than a 4-2-1 extractor

More so if you have dynoed;recorded and logged the differences in performance with different cams.

Care to share??.....just for interest ( anyways without the fuel map and tuning ..wont be much use)
 
got my reading finally.. thanks for googles..

kinda weird..115 /107.. hahaha..
 
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