improve braking

[vr2turbo]

okay then, just maybe braided hose can have higher pedal feel and also is there anyway to
improve the brake pedal so that no need to step too deep in to get the bite? She use to drive
cars that press sikit adi makan...which i also feel safer with such brake pedals...at least quicker
responds to emergency braking...

When the brakes becomes too strong without ABS it becomes dangerous. Especially in corners if lock the wheel, sure will spin...
My VR now can lock at speed of 130kmh.....

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

When the brakes becomes too strong without ABS it becomes dangerous. Especially in corners if lock the wheel, sure will spin...
My VR now can lock at speed of 130kmh.....

Oh...hmmm then shall leave the Kelisa as OEM but Braided hose to improve higher pedal feel should be fine I suppose? just a better braking feel.

Guess my BLM brakes are strong...hit the brakes then skidded, well when the ground is wet

Speed of 130km/h very dangerous orr...is not that fast yet but wheel lock? :afraid:

 

[csl]

I just paid the 1st road tax + insurance for it so I don't think wear and tare is something that can be happen.

The biggest problem is the weight of the car. Suspension and thick tires are the 2nd contribution of poor braking. The stock brake is good for max 100-120km/h. Anything more than that you will feel some sort like R35 braking at 240-260km/h (on stock brake system). Brake pad is the only thing that I can try at the moment but I don't put big hope for satisfaction. Bigger wheel with thinner tires + a set of BBK will be the solution but the cost just too much. If I put my spare 18" lightweight wheel on it, tires alone will be at about RM3k, BBk is about RM6k (including everything),

Currently the tires are good. If tires are bad, the brake can easily jam the wheel and leave tire marks on the road. I used to think of making grooves on the stock brake rotor but the risk is just not worth a single penny so I give up.

 

[vr2turbo]

Oh...hmmm then shall leave the Kelisa as OEM but Braided hose to improve higher pedal feel should be fine I suppose? just a better braking feel.

Guess my BLM brakes are strong...hit the brakes then skidded, well when the ground is wet

Speed of 130km/h very dangerous orr...is not that fast yet but wheel lock? :afraid:

Then you need better tyres......

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:44 PM ----------

I just paid the 1st road tax + insurance for it so I don't think wear and tare is something that can be happen.

The biggest problem is the weight of the car. Suspension and thick tires are the 2nd contribution of poor braking. The stock brake is good for max 100-120km/h. Anything more than that you will feel some sort like R35 braking at 240-260km/h (on stock brake system). Brake pad is the only thing that I can try at the moment but I don't put big hope for satisfaction. Bigger wheel with thinner tires + a set of BBK will be the solution but the cost just too much. If I put my spare 18" lightweight wheel on it, tires alone will be at about RM3k, BBk is about RM6k (including everything),

Currently the tires are good. If tires are bad, the brake can easily jam the wheel and leave tire marks on the road. I used to think of making grooves on the stock brake rotor but the risk is just not worth a single penny so I give up.

A good set of brake pads is a good investment. Cross drill and slotted disc rotor only if you feel the brakes fading especially after hard repeated use of the brakes, if not no point doing it....

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Then you need better tyres......

Currently using XM2 GO GREEN or Good FC tyres...guess like u guys recommended...195/50/15
is the size to go for more contact patch...

 

[vr2turbo]

Currently using XM2 GO GREEN or Good FC tyres...guess like u guys recommended...195/50/15
is the size to go for more contact patch...

Contact patch and performance grade rubber for more traction......

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Contact patch and performance grade rubber for more traction......

Noted!

 

[Dayline668]

I just paid the 1st road tax + insurance for it so I don't think wear and tare is something that can be happen.

The biggest problem is the weight of the car. Suspension and thick tires are the 2nd contribution of poor braking. The stock brake is good for max 100-120km/h. Anything more than that you will feel some sort like R35 braking at 240-260km/h (on stock brake system). Brake pad is the only thing that I can try at the moment but I don't put big hope for satisfaction. Bigger wheel with thinner tires + a set of BBK will be the solution but the cost just too much. If I put my spare 18" lightweight wheel on it, tires alone will be at about RM3k, BBk is about RM6k (including everything),

Currently the tires are good. If tires are bad, the brake can easily jam the wheel and leave tire marks on the road. I used to think of making grooves on the stock brake rotor but the risk is just not worth a single penny so I give up.

There r custom rotor that can suite your car, u can try upgrade 1 by 1 if the brake is still insufficient no need to fork out money to upgrade all, just drive conservatively, drive from a safe distance since u know your braking distance. Drive safe

 

[quicksilver7]

That one is one rung below Blue advantage and is similar to Bendix Metal King. My metal king also makan the disc rotor.....

---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:51 AM ----------



If brake fluid have gone down and do not have any leaks, means your brake pad/lining have worn down, better just check to see how much left.....

hmm why does the brake fluid go down together with worn brake pads? I'll know when it's time to change the pads when there's a screeching sound right?

 

[vr2turbo]

hmm why does the brake fluid go down together with worn brake pads? I'll know when it's time to change the pads when there's a screeching sound right?

Front disc pads are about 10mm thick on either side. When you mount new pads for the first time the brake piston pots are fully pushed back inside. As the pads starts to wear, the pots comes out, internally at the back of the pots, it is filled with brake fluid, therefore the reservoir level will drop.

For the screeching sound, means your pads are completely gone and the metal backing of the pads touches the disc rotor, or if your pads have indicator, the indicator touches the disc rotor to make screeching sound.
I mention to check just to see how much balance as sometimes the pads can wear uneven, meaning the outer one wears more then the inner ones and so on....

 

[Izso]

I just paid the 1st road tax + insurance for it so I don't think wear and tare is something that can be happen.

The biggest problem is the weight of the car. Suspension and thick tires are the 2nd contribution of poor braking. The stock brake is good for max 100-120km/h. Anything more than that you will feel some sort like R35 braking at 240-260km/h (on stock brake system). Brake pad is the only thing that I can try at the moment but I don't put big hope for satisfaction. Bigger wheel with thinner tires + a set of BBK will be the solution but the cost just too much. If I put my spare 18" lightweight wheel on it, tires alone will be at about RM3k, BBk is about RM6k (including everything),

Currently the tires are good. If tires are bad, the brake can easily jam the wheel and leave tire marks on the road. I used to think of making grooves on the stock brake rotor but the risk is just not worth a single penny so I give up.

Don't modify your existing rotor. You want grooves and cross drills get the pre-made ones. Modifying something that wasn't designed that way has too many risks especially for a heavy car like yours.

Also I thought the captiva has EBD and ABS? How the hell did you leave tyre marks?

Anyway, it sounds like you just need good tyres and to drive slower. Why do you want to stomp on your brakes at 120km/h anyway?

hmm why does the brake fluid go down together with worn brake pads? I'll know when it's time to change the pads when there's a screeching sound right?

The way the brake system works is like this :

You press the brake pedal--> Activates the brake pump--> Pumps the oil to the calipers to push the pistons--> Pistons pushes brake pads onto rotors to stop your car.

So the thinner the brake pads the more oil is needed to push the piston in. Personally I wouldn't wait until the screeching noise. I usually change the pad once the center groove on the brake pad is no longer there. The thinner the pad the crappier the pedal feel and more irritating the braking noise.


SupraFan : Brake stoppers are rare and most are custom made. I'd be very surprised if you find any stoppers for your Kelisa. Even the Myvi one is hard to get, one from Cusco and the other Passo. Both super expensive (above RM500). I'll be posting up a DIY (sorta) on brake a brake stopper later. Heh. The amazing things you can do with a TIG welder.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

SupraFan : Brake stoppers are rare and most are custom made. I'd be very surprised if you find any stoppers for your Kelisa. Even the Myvi one is hard to get, one from Cusco and the other Passo. Both super expensive (above RM500). I'll be posting up a DIY (sorta) on brake a brake stopper later. Heh. The amazing things you can do with a TIG welder.

Thanks man! Looking forward to that!

 

[csl]

Don't modify your existing rotor. You want grooves and cross drills get the pre-made ones. Modifying something that wasn't designed that way has too many risks especially for a heavy car like yours.

Also I thought the captiva has EBD and ABS? How the hell did you leave tyre marks?

Anyway, it sounds like you just need good tyres and to drive slower. Why do you want to stomp on your brakes at 120km/h anyway?



The way the brake system works is like this :

You press the brake pedal--> Activates the brake pump--> Pumps the oil to the calipers to push the pistons--> Pistons pushes brake pads onto rotors to stop your car.

So the thinner the brake pads the more oil is needed to push the piston in. Personally I wouldn't wait until the screeching noise. I usually change the pad once the center groove on the brake pad is no longer there. The thinner the pad the crappier the pedal feel and more irritating the braking noise.


SupraFan : Brake stoppers are rare and most are custom made. I'd be very surprised if you find any stoppers for your Kelisa. Even the Myvi one is hard to get, one from Cusco and the other Passo. Both super expensive (above RM500). I'll be posting up a DIY (sorta) on brake a brake stopper later. Heh. The amazing things you can do with a TIG welder.

I said I slam the brake yet no tire marks. means that no tire is stopping and ABS is not triggered. It is not the tire problem. If it is tires problem, the brake can easily jam the wheel and then ABS will trigger. The wheels are rolling and the inertial of the car pushing them to roll forward.

I'm not the driver but my wife is. She drive faster than me on a straight road. I only test the car and fix it up. But I'm not gonna do nigger job like drilling holes on stock rotor or something like that :D

 

[Izso]

I said I slam the brake yet no tire marks. means that no tire is stopping and ABS is not triggered. It is not the tire problem. If it is tires problem, the brake can easily jam the wheel and then ABS will trigger. The wheels are rolling and the inertial of the car pushing them to roll forward.

I'm not the driver but my wife is. She drive faster than me on a straight road. I only test the car and fix it up. But I'm not gonna do nigger job like drilling holes on stock rotor or something like that :D

I personally don't really care for the politically incorrect term you used to describe African Americans. But that's a personal preference.

If you've jammed the brakes that hard and the wheels are still rolling because of inertia, then there's a problem with your calipers or brake pads. If you're standing on your brake pedal and the wheels still can turn then the caliper is not gripping properly.

A quick check on Google tells me my Unser is almost as heavy as your Captiva. My Unser doesn't have ABS and locking up the wheels is easy. Tyres will scream mercy when I do that too leaving behind a long black line.

So if your Captiva is still rolling even after 'slamming the brakes', there's a problem with either your caliper not clamping down properly or your brake pads are cooked and need replacing or there's a vacuum leak somewhere but you'd be able to feel that on your pedal.

Note : This is assuming you don't activate the ABS la

 

[csl]

This is what happened when I brake at above 120-130km/h (high speed). Just like stock R35 braking at above 240km/h. To confirm if this is normal for all Captiva, I may need to test drive another unit. If other unit is ok, that's mean my car got problem. I had checked all the basic thing related to the brake. And also can confirm the brake is not over heating cuz just drive out less than 300m from house in the morning. Probably I'm too sensitive after being spoiled by the 355mm Project Mu kit from 3 years ago. That's is also the reason why I asked if there is any professional brake shop so that they can test and tell if acceptable or not.


If the tires are screaming or the ABS triggered, I'll be happier compare to now.

 

[Dayline668]

Just dun drive so fast since your brake r problematic, trying another same unit is the best way to determent if there a problem, best is to swap part to test, the problem part will be easily found.

 

[Izso]

CSL : assuming your captiva is new, why not just bring it back to SC and claim ABS is broken and insist they check for free. It's not a wear and tear item so a quick computer diagnostic check should be able to tell you if your expensive SUV is working or not.

On a separate note, I've never been able to 'manually' activate my ABS. It's only when I really get into a fix and jam the brakes does it ever really kick in. So maybe you're just not braking 'emergency' enough.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Agree that the only time I ever did manage to feel ABS kick in, was when I did an emergency brake once...totally jam brakes...
Can feel it at the steering itself...

Imagine speeding at 160km/h+ and due to a motor cutting into my lane without looking and I was a the middle lane, no place to avoid,
Jam brakes till 80-90km/h...really honk that bugger, and yet he honk me back pula

 

[vr2turbo]

Agree that the only time I ever did manage to feel ABS kick in, was when I did an emergency brake once...totally jam brakes...
Can feel it at the steering itself...

Imagine speeding at 160km/h+ and due to a motor cutting into my lane without looking and I was a the middle lane, no place to avoid,
Jam brakes till 80-90km/h...really honk that bugger, and yet he honk me back pula

Yah! they think they had the right of way......

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

talking about abs.....actually in my opinion proton persona's abs quite good in response and sensing......

been driving in sepang circuit with stock car+stock tyre.....i need to brake really2 hard untill it was off the "ideal" racing line, then only the abs kicking in..... and later smells the rear brake pad overheated to recover the understeering that occurs...