stoker 1.8 into b16a block...

hattech-v,
brp kali mau cakap..my B16A sudah meletup lar..u wan me 2 post d kaboom pics n zth baru wanna believe ka?Wat ler u.sad story lar..kasi tutup lar..u oso pernah kebabom ur engine,u shud know how i feel wat?n dis SDB no can do coz my B16 is still a GENUINE 1.6L..kenot fight 1,i know..buang duit ajer..ahahaahaha
n oit..ppl dun ask u kenot "market" it 1 meh?wat ler u..TEMBAK!
ahhahaahh
 
egb18c,
u still student?study whr?whoaa..nowadays student can afford 2 play car dy..last time i student drive iswara 1.3sedan wanna lowered d car mau potong spring oso tak mampu lor..ahahahhahaha
u come back kuantan n search 4 EAG lar..d only w.shop dat has a Dyno machine in Kuantan..n prolly East Coast....Dynojet u!
 
Uniten student,not recommend to study here,students treated like kids n frikkin expensive.dun compare it wit sunway n taylors lah.
nowdays students can make money by racing cars meh.not me la,car very d slow one.hehehehe.

owh yeah,heard of it,d dyno lah,first in kuantan.how much per run a?
 
hattech-v,
brp kali mau cakap..my B16A sudah meletup lar..u wan me 2 post d kaboom pics n zth baru wanna believe ka?Wat ler u.sad story lar..kasi tutup lar..u oso pernah kebabom ur engine,u shud know how i feel wat?n dis SDB no can do coz my B16 is still a GENUINE 1.6L..kenot fight 1,i know..buang duit ajer..ahahaahaha
n oit..ppl dun ask u kenot "market" it 1 meh?wat ler u..TEMBAK!
ahhahaahh

aiyaa.... join for syok2 laaa... hehe
 
hattech-v,
u pay 4 me lar..or else whr got syiok2?ahhahaa.....

egb18c,
ntah..u ask d tauke lar..i think dyno run alone RM120....dyno tune duno..c tune wat lar
 
Akuma,

I didn't say the jap tuners aren't good. Its just that its expensive to get them to tune. People like Koyama don't want to tune unless theres a lot to tune. We do have Ohara to tune HKS EMS here though. And he does a pretty good job with it. Australian tuners are also not too bad. It just depends on how much time they spend on the dyno tuning it.
 
hattech-v,
amoi BANYAK tempat ada jugak...but u din say u wan prerry amoi,right?janji amoi,dah ok,kan?hahahahaha..beres bah!
 
im replying koz meor bugged me lar ..hahaha

hattech,
the 3.5k packages is 1.8 or 2.0 into b16a? hee hee hee

akuma,
asyik meletup engine je? its high time u use a standalone ems. at least can tune for different setups for your your gymhana, track and drag. long term investment la boss.

d-iv,
the only thing which is not realiable there is the machine shop. that is why
u cant adopt the malaysia boleh rocket recipes. but then again to make life easier, just order the block from the states and ask ohura to tunewith emanage or hks fcon. not much hassle. if u like hondata, get the aussie dude from hondata australia that tuned the dc5s last time. he tunes good.

:biggrin:
 
I won't say our Local machine shop is not reliable here yet because I haven't tried it to judge it. I'm gonna wait for feedbacks soon once my friends car is running. He sleeved his Sr20 locally already and I wanna see how good is the sleeving and how is it going to last.
 
J101,
since whn u become meor's budak suruhan?d fella bug u abit u post dy?aaahhahaaha
n CUP..who sed i asyik meletop engine?only happened once lar n its due 2 d valves...nothg 2 d w d EMS....apara lu..sumpah me ar?

n i beg 2 differ abt d reliability of d local machine shops....they actually do according 2 d spec requested by their customer.......so,if d spec is wrong..habis ler.....but thn again of course not all machine shops know wat they r doin also lar.HAR HAR HAR
 
akuma,
must well balanced le. meor reminded me must lepak more in malaysian forums. ha ha ha

about the ems, im suggesting only. benda kasi laju kita recommend. apa guna simpan. ha ha.

true, the machine shop do according to spec, not to precision engineering :)
 
if i'm not mistaken... u must also fit the crank guard (can be found in b16b or b18c block). but i don't really know laa. last time i wanna fit 2L crank to my b16a block but my mech says the crank guard also must be fitted. :hmmmm:

hello guys....
bro could tell me summore bout this crank guard??
is it best for 20b??:confused::confused:
 
i believe you are asking for crank girdle?
if u want to have a peace of mind and cheap insurance then get a girdle. if you plan to push more than 8000rpm or boosted vtec turbo then get a girdle.

it can either be aftermarket bolt-on or machined bored honda girdle.

u need or you dont need? as long as the block is mechanically sound and machined properly you dont need a girdle actually. save your money for some other things.

if u still want to spend on the b20, get the ARP rod bolt.


hello guys....
bro could tell me summore bout this crank guard??
is it best for 20b??:confused::confused:
 
DIV, nice to see and enthusiast actually knowing more about engines than simply buying parts and stuffing them in.

Actually it's even possible to stroke up to 92mm with Jun and run stupid short aftermarket rods with raised pin height combo.. but compression loss will set in a lot quicker.

If the car is built only for drag, I think sure lasting, but if daily driven, I think compression loss will set in after 20-50,000kms (I don't think they do half mile runs in SDB, so that's quite a lot of mileage for a DRAG car. :P
 
Thanks. I know it can be done, just that the point of doing it on a b16a is just plain crazy when I can do it cheaper with a b20 block with internals (rm500), resleeving it and bore it out to 87mm with OEM K24 or H22A piston. Better deck height clearance. But then again to each their own...

Oh yeah, I do appreciate sharing ideas with other enthusiast like yourself.
 
The idea is to have a covert big stroker, so can't really blame them.

Actually the H22A 87mm has been done, twice in Malaysia AFAIK. not sure if there's more.

They're high maintainance engines as well. They eat gaskets. with 2+mm seal between cyclinders, the gaskets don't really last long, unless you're using it as a full time drag vehicle.

But with 290/300+ hp NA power, hard to argue with that combo. :P

but there is a practical limit to having high wrist pin height on pistons, you can even have the wrist pin sitting slightly on the oil ring, but god knows how much engine oil gets consumed by doing that.

No one is doing the high rpm small displacement/short gear ratio combo successfully it seems. Then again, the low end power of a high rpm small displacement is really disappointing.

I think K-tech once had an appearance in a BMI video discussing on the effects of rod stroke ratio, and how they did it to get the car to rev past 10K.

Good luck understanding it though, it's fully japanese with no subtitles, and they were making fun of how even the BMI reporter/representative couldn't understand anything.

And if you're even contemplating that 87mm setup, sleeved blocks are a great insurance, I think the comp is around the region of 13-14+ with the H22A pistons, depending on stroke used. you can mill them for lower comp, but I'm not exactly sure how much can be removed before there's too little material in the center of the pistons. Solution is probably using forged aftermarket, but you'd be looking at pistons with no dome/slight dome to slight dish, depending on the stroke you plan to use.

Strokers alone, other aspects remaining the same, you can get less compression(and displacement) with 87mm B18C, and slightly higher with the B20 strokers, to the ultimate in crazy stroking, 92 from jun/crower, or 95 from crower. making a B24 a distinct possibilty. The parts are available, if you have the guts and deep pockets to do it, and bear with the higher maintainance cost than simply buying a K24/K20A and be done with it.

Note that these setups can be built, but if you're going to make it a daily driver, then I will go (O_o). Maybe daily driver for a worker that only sees 5-10 minutes of driving in traffic per day, lol.

That's why dart came out with the extended blocks, 10mm higher than stock deck height. For big stroker combos, or stock stroke with longer rods.

but at the prices, K20A/K24 combo starts to look cheap, lol.

But as the recent issue of honda tuning and Hytech attest to, the main limitation to the K series is the tiny oil pump. Not enough pressure for high rpm operation due to cavitation. Highest they can maintain stable oil pressure is up to 9K rpm only.

Any higher, and the only other choice is dry sump system, with pressurised oil passages. I'm not sure how much they sell in Malaysia, but Toda's dry sump for the s2k is listed as 10,000USD. (O_O) indeed.
 
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