Questions on upgrading power

yes but the 4g61 is not plug n play...hence some alterations have to be done in order to fit it in, if not mistaken, mounting hafto kacau...hence illegal

Zzz.. Means Mivec MD engine can't be used lah.. T.T
Heard its good powerhorse with superb FC.... If there's any engine transplant I'm going to do most probably this will be the one.... So, any other options of engines out there?

---------- Post added at 10:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

And can someone tell me why? I opened my car hood toda and noticed that even with the engine is on... The radiator fan isn't moving,... Is it rosak already???? What can i do?
 
Zzz.. Means Mivec MD engine can't be used lah.. T.T
Heard its good powerhorse with superb FC.... If there's any engine transplant I'm going to do most probably this will be the one.... So, any other options of engines out there?

---------- Post added at 10:45 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

And can someone tell me why? I opened my car hood toda and noticed that even with the engine is on... The radiator fan isn't moving,... Is it rosak already???? What can i do?

Is ur fan electric? And was your engine even hot?
If its electric it might have not activated yet, engine still cold. But if ur engine is hot somethings not working lah :driver:
 
Is ur fan electric? And was your engine even hot?
If its electric it might have not activated yet, engine still cold. But if ur engine is hot somethings not working lah :driver:

Not sure about that... It was after I drove back from office, off the engine, and directly opened the hood. After seeing the radiator is kinda hot and sprayed water in it, i re start my car and did not see the fan move. Is it normal? Or problem?
 
Oh normal lah, it only starts if the engine is really hot and the thermostat opens and it needs air to cool it, then only the fan will kick in :)

U go try leave ur car on engine for 5 mins idling and the fan will on when it needs to... Its not permanantely on
 
Oh ya, bump on my topic today, my new question is will tyres size affect the car's perfomance? Lets say, for a a 4g13p, will it drastically affect power and torque?
 
How much you plan to add?

Like for instance my ori rims were 175/70/13, now im using 195/50/15.

In the dry in first gear full throttle I cant break traction with the 195, but I could with the 175... I think there will be more of a loss on a 1.3, my rims are black racing rims sumore, not the cheap taiwan made stuff haha :rofl:

Choose your wheels + tires wisely, they affect quite a bit on a small cc car :rolleyes:

1. The wider your tires, the slower your car picks up speed, but the faster you can corner.

2. The heavier your wheels, the more power is needed to rotate it.
 
How much you plan to add?

Like for instance my ori rims were 175/70/13, now im using 195/50/15.

In the dry in first gear full throttle I cant break traction with the 195, but I could with the 175... I think there will be more of a loss on a 1.3, my rims are black racing rims sumore, not the cheap taiwan made stuff haha :rofl:

Choose your wheels + tires wisely, they affect quite a bit on a small cc car :rolleyes:

1. The wider your tires, the slower your car picks up speed, but the faster you can corner.

2. The heavier your wheels, the more power is needed to rotate it.

I am using stock 14" steel rims and it really looks ugly in my eyes. Thinking of changing to 15" or 16", I don't really mind Taiwan or Japan made as long its light and durable. Do you think there's such thing as light Taiwan rims? Recently I found an ad claiming their replica rims are light, at 15" weights less than 7kg. Although replica, but really look nice. So, now i am left with two options, which is buying a new Taiwan rims or getting 2nd hand Japanese rims. I don't know how the rims import really work, got any ideas? And any pros and cons betwwen Taiwan and Japanese rims? I heard that there's an outsource thingy but I don't know if its true or not.... Someone pls enlighten me....
 
I am using stock 14" steel rims and it really looks ugly in my eyes. Thinking of changing to 15" or 16", I don't really mind Taiwan or Japan made as long its light and durable. Do you think there's such thing as light Taiwan rims? Recently I found an ad claiming their replica rims are light, at 15" weights less than 7kg. Although replica, but really look nice. So, now i am left with two options, which is buying a new Taiwan rims or getting 2nd hand Japanese rims. I don't know how the rims import really work, got any ideas? And any pros and cons betwwen Taiwan and Japanese rims? I heard that there's an outsource thingy but I don't know if its true or not.... Someone pls enlighten me....

What car you driving dude? And what CC?

Okay first lesson first, NEVER assume things about modifications. I used to disregard as taiwan stuff as shit when I was younger, and I got the biggest wake-up call when I actually measured A random taiwan rim when I was looking for rims back then, and I compared it to a japan rim of same budget (I think it was sparco branded? Cant remember, haha) and the taiwan rim was lighter... Not nessecarily stronger tho, haha :biggrin:

What import rims you talking about?

Just go to any drift car shop and look around for 2nd hand Jap rims lah... but be warned, it isnt cheap... :driver:

Have fun in modding!
 
How much you plan to add?

Like for instance my ori rims were 175/70/13, now im using 195/50/15.

In the dry in first gear full throttle I cant break traction with the 195, but I could with the 175... I think there will be more of a loss on a 1.3, my rims are black racing rims sumore, not the cheap taiwan made stuff haha :rofl:

Choose your wheels + tires wisely, they affect quite a bit on a small cc car :rolleyes:

1. The wider your tires, the slower your car picks up speed, but the faster you can corner.

2. The heavier your wheels, the more power is needed to rotate it.

I am using stock 14" steel rims and it really looks ugly in my eyes. Thinking of changing to 15" or 16", I don't really mind Taiwan or Japan made as long its light and durable. Do you think there's such thing as light Taiwan rims? Recently I found an ad claiming their replica rims are light, at 15" weights less than 7kg. Although replica, but really look nice. So, now i am left with two options, which is buying a new Taiwan rims or getting 2nd hand Japanese rims. I don't know how the rims import really work, got any ideas? And any pros and cons betwwen Taiwan and Japanese rims? I heard that there's an outsource thingy but I don't know if its true or not.... Someone pls enlighten me....

---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

How much you plan to add?

Like for instance my ori rims were 175/70/13, now im using 195/50/15.

In the dry in first gear full throttle I cant break traction with the 195, but I could with the 175... I think there will be more of a loss on a 1.3, my rims are black racing rims sumore, not the cheap taiwan made stuff haha :rofl:

Choose your wheels + tires wisely, they affect quite a bit on a small cc car :rolleyes:

1. The wider your tires, the slower your car picks up speed, but the faster you can corner.

2. The heavier your wheels, the more power is needed to rotate it.

I am using stock 14" steel rims and it really looks ugly in my eyes. Thinking of changing to 15" or 16", I don't really mind Taiwan or Japan made as long its light and durable. Do you think there's such thing as light Taiwan rims? Recently I found an ad claiming their replica rims are light, at 15" weights less than 7kg. Although replica, but really look nice. So, now i am left with two options, which is buying a new Taiwan rims or getting 2nd hand Japanese rims. I don't know how the rims import really work, got any ideas? And any pros and cons betwwen Taiwan and Japanese rims? I heard that there's an outsource thingy but I don't know if its true or not.... Someone pls enlighten me....
 
Dude, 3 times already you posted, what do you expect for an answer? Youre spamming my email notifications lah -.-"
 
Dude, 3 times already you posted, what do you expect for an answer? Youre spamming my email notifications lah -.-"

Eh... No... I dc like hell just now T.T.... So I keep spam reconnect... Sorry ah...
So what's my answer? :D
 
What car you driving dude? And what CC?

Okay first lesson first, NEVER assume things about modifications. I used to disregard as taiwan stuff as shit when I was younger, and I got the biggest wake-up call when I actually measured A random taiwan rim when I was looking for rims back then, and I compared it to a japan rim of same budget (I think it was sparco branded? Cant remember, haha) and the taiwan rim was lighter... Not nessecarily stronger tho, haha

What import rims you talking about?

Just go to any drift car shop and look around for 2nd hand Jap rims lah... but be warned, it isnt cheap...

Have fun in modding!


Ok here you go, copy and pasted...

Haha streamyx fault lah then, not yours :rofl:
 
Oh yea, there's new question, I dunno is there anymore sifus to clarify this for me... They are:-
1) Will changing the gearbox gives more power-band and torque? Put in an example, fitting in a 4g15 gearbox into the 4g13 engine.

2) Is it possible to use the 4G13 engine but fit in 4G91 gearbox? If possible, which is better? 4G15 gb or 4G91 gb?

3) If convert the engine from Carburetor to EFI, will be boost performance as well be more fuel effective? What is the estimate cost of conversion, and is it worth it?

4) Lets say Carb with modded exhaust system converted to EFI, will it cause power loss and fuel inefficiency?

5) Now regarding engine oil, a friend of mine told me that engine oil has expiry dates. His mechanic that he promotes me to at Klang quoted me an oil change (oil + labour + filter) at RM80 for Eneos Eco Touring (15-40) at RM80 but Eneos Jusco Kepong is selling at much lower price. I asked why, he told me that the oil sold there surely 'expired' liow and are sold off cheaper due to product clearance. He told me that expired engine oils can bring damage to the car which I don't know if it is true or not. If so, is it possible to check the expiry date? This is because when I checked the Eneos bottle itself, the production date seem as new as those stamped in the Eneos Kepong Jusco as well.

Hopefully, some good sifus can really tell me, because my friend said the sifus here knows nothing -.-
 
Oh yea, there's new question, I dunno is there anymore sifus to clarify this for me... They are:-
1) Will changing the gearbox gives more power-band and torque? Put in an example, fitting in a 4g15 gearbox into the 4g13 engine.

2) Is it possible to use the 4G13 engine but fit in 4G91 gearbox? If possible, which is better? 4G15 gb or 4G91 gb?

3) If convert the engine from Carburetor to EFI, will be boost performance as well be more fuel effective? What is the estimate cost of conversion, and is it worth it?

4) Lets say Carb with modded exhaust system converted to EFI, will it cause power loss and fuel inefficiency?

5) Now regarding engine oil, a friend of mine told me that engine oil has expiry dates. His mechanic that he promotes me to at Klang quoted me an oil change (oil + labour + filter) at RM80 for Eneos Eco Touring (15-40) at RM80 but Eneos Jusco Kepong is selling at much lower price. I asked why, he told me that the oil sold there surely 'expired' liow and are sold off cheaper due to product clearance. He told me that expired engine oils can bring damage to the car which I don't know if it is true or not. If so, is it possible to check the expiry date? This is because when I checked the Eneos bottle itself, the production date seem as new as those stamped in the Eneos Kepong Jusco as well.

Hopefully, some good sifus can really tell me, because my friend said the sifus here knows nothing -.-

1. Imagine yourself cycling on a bicycle, gear 1-6.Theyre all ngam for your body, then tiba-tiba I go change all the gearing 2x smaller (7-12) which was meant for a stronger person, but youre only meant to go for 1-6. Get what I mean?... I think you'll go even SLOWER than the 1.3 gearbox but maybe more mileage cause of the longer gearing.

2. Dunno cant help you here bro :hmmmm:

3. FC I have no idea, but you have to budget for this. Wiring harness, ECU, intake manifold, air filter, whatever sensors needed e.g o2 sensor at your extractor etc. etc. Power gains? I doubt more than 5. You might as well go swap your carbs over and have some fun with it. You want real power go swap the engine to a bigger one, not just convert EFi :biggrin:. Then you'll feel you got your moneys worth.

4. An exhaust is nothing more than piping which extracts wasted gas. If its the same engine size, and you dont change the size of your exhaust, why should your performance be affected? :hmmmm:|

5. Yeah expired engine oil in a vacumn container, your friend makes a LOT of sense. Whoever heard of expiry dates on NEW engine oil? :stupid: Opened bottles yes, moisture goes it, dirt might go in, but NEW ones with the seal still on its ok. Use google on simple things like this. Its more reliable than your friend :driver:. If engine oil DID expire, dont you think EVERY ENGINE OIL maker would have a clearance sale to clear the nearly expired ones? No sense lah. Un-used synthetic oil expires.

Well you know what they say, it takes one to know one. Your friend must have a lot of 'nothing' as well in his head :biggrin:.
 
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2) Is it possible to use the 4G13 engine but fit in 4G91 gearbox? If possible, which is better? 4G15 gb or 4G91 gb?

what car u driving??... if wira, yes it is possible... plug and play.... if u are driving saga iswara, no u cannot... it is not impossible, except dat quite alot of work and customization need to be done... not direct plug and play...

4g13 fit 4g91 gearbox, u will suffer from low end torque... 4g91 gearbox has longer gear ratio... good for high speed, bad for acceleration and pickup....

4g13 and 4g15 gearbox is the same if not mistaken.... depending on which batch ur car from... best is to check ur gearbox code... either VRAC or VRBE... both has similar final drive, but slightly different 5th gear ratio.... will not give u much improvement swapping 4g13 gearbox with 4g15 gearbox...
 
hey mishima, you can start by getting K&N filter and air intake. Then do your exhaust system next. is your car sfully stock? if it is your extractor could have actually been a 4-2-1 extractor already. im not exactly sure la but perviously, the threads before, many said proton stock comes with 4-2-1 extractor. perhaps u can identify your extractors first.

just my suggestion. hope it helps. be my guest to correct me and add =)
 
Its all fully stock, but the last batch one don't have 4-2-1...

If engine change, but price keeps going up for 4g91.

If build one by one, a lot of hassle.

4g13 are Mitsubishi rejects and the best part Proton build a Carburetor type to screw it up even more.
 
Its all fully stock, but the last batch one don't have 4-2-1...

If engine change, but price keeps going up for 4g91.

If build one by one, a lot of hassle.

4g13 are Mitsubishi rejects and the best part Proton build a Carburetor type to screw it up even more.
nope... carburetors one are in fact perform better compare to fuel injection ones, especially newer siemens vdo ecu...
 
bro, currently im using iswara but the older version than yours, the lmss.. so far, wat did you do for your car?
 

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