CHEAP Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator!
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i oso want.....hehehehe....
eeerrrr......... existing customer like me and GB got better deal ka!!!!!....
so maybe see you 2morrow... TTT
cheers...
eeerrrr......... existing customer like me and GB got better deal ka!!!!!....
so maybe see you 2morrow... TTT
cheers...
Erwandy,
we meet up 2moro at TTT session la at same place restaurant syed ariff n discuss further on dis plan. heehehehehe... :)
Regards,
Mike
we meet up 2moro at TTT session la at same place restaurant syed ariff n discuss further on dis plan. heehehehehe... :)
Regards,
Mike
Bro Erwandy, why dun u make a prototype that come wif the meter wan. Then post in so that all the toyotarian decide mar whether need or not the meter. :P For me sure wan the meter wan... Easier to adjust mar. Just my 0.02Cent of thought.
Wahlau!, Erwandy install Autocad in office PC and use the free time to design mod stuff for cars. hehehe. Hopes his boss doesn't read this. :P
THANK YOU ALL For the responses!!
Yes, I have just managed to source out a cheap and reliable "supplier" for pressure gauge - and it comes in 2 sizes hahahaha. Rest assured that the gauge alone will not cost more than RM30.00 - so I am not taking any profit at all from this. Additionally, RM5 will be required for other parts such as 8mm Hose Extension, T Joints and Vice Clamps (4 minimum) - if required.
Currently, installation of Pressure Gauge will not be directly on the FPR body. This is because if gauge are to be installed on the FPR itself, a new hole would have to be drilled in the fuel chamber and I don't quite like the idea. Right now, to make a normal FPR to become A-FPR I only modify the Vacuum chamber and leave Fuel Chamber intact.
So, In addition to my earlier offer, now you have an option to buy Pressure Gauge by simply adding RM30 + RM5 for T Joints & Clamps.
- And yes, I am looking for supplier of "used" FPRs for mods so that it would be easier for trade in
- For those who choose not to buy gauge also can. After installation, I will temporarily install a gauge so that the pressure can be set.
- And yess, ANY FPR from EFi cars can!!! - even the All Mighty Honda! hahahahaha
* YESSS existing regular customer will have "Premium Service" hahahahahaha
Yes, I have just managed to source out a cheap and reliable "supplier" for pressure gauge - and it comes in 2 sizes hahahaha. Rest assured that the gauge alone will not cost more than RM30.00 - so I am not taking any profit at all from this. Additionally, RM5 will be required for other parts such as 8mm Hose Extension, T Joints and Vice Clamps (4 minimum) - if required.
Currently, installation of Pressure Gauge will not be directly on the FPR body. This is because if gauge are to be installed on the FPR itself, a new hole would have to be drilled in the fuel chamber and I don't quite like the idea. Right now, to make a normal FPR to become A-FPR I only modify the Vacuum chamber and leave Fuel Chamber intact.
So, In addition to my earlier offer, now you have an option to buy Pressure Gauge by simply adding RM30 + RM5 for T Joints & Clamps.
- And yes, I am looking for supplier of "used" FPRs for mods so that it would be easier for trade in
- For those who choose not to buy gauge also can. After installation, I will temporarily install a gauge so that the pressure can be set.
- And yess, ANY FPR from EFi cars can!!! - even the All Mighty Honda! hahahahaha
* YESSS existing regular customer will have "Premium Service" hahahahahaha
Wah like that now all hondas car veli fast oredi....Like that where can wor.. <_< Master Erwandy, must create some heavy mod to tapau some of the VTEC mah... :P hahahahahahaha...
EFN, can u do for 4agze fuel pressure regulator. i want higher pressure rate. i can see u r using stock diaframe will it blow at higher pressure?
i will not go for too much pressure just max will be 10-15 more psi then stock one. should be 0 vaccum around 40-45psi. so with boost kick in maybe will going to 60psi pressure, this will never know cos boost only kick in when driving hahahaha...
i want i want if ur mod can be use.
i dont want warranty , cos i dont want this thing spoil. no one want to buy the thing and hope can claim warranty. if it spoiled my engine will blew also. right? hahaha
i will not go for too much pressure just max will be 10-15 more psi then stock one. should be 0 vaccum around 40-45psi. so with boost kick in maybe will going to 60psi pressure, this will never know cos boost only kick in when driving hahahaha...
i want i want if ur mod can be use.
i dont want warranty , cos i dont want this thing spoil. no one want to buy the thing and hope can claim warranty. if it spoiled my engine will blew also. right? hahaha
Thank you for asking.
That's the very reason I choose to mod and weld them back using MIG welders. I don't want to use Clamp type because I am not convinced they are strong enuff.
Going over 10-15 PSI from Stock should be no issues at all because I have tested my 20V A-FPR to even run at 50PSI at Idle (60PSI at WOT) and face no problem at all. For your information 20V NA are supposed to run 28PSI at idle (40PSI WOT) - so I have to retard the pressure back to 35PSI for better ummph hahahaha.
The key factor to my FPR mods is the length of the tensioner springs that allows for more tunability. So going over board with the very same OEM FPR is possible now.
All in all, I have great faith in Toyota Denso OEM FPR and they very-very rarely goes bad - so reliability is in the original products itself.
So how? hahahahaha
Laucky u laa fren. I have just finished my second AFPR prototype. Looked better hahahahah
Currently I have to use the customers own OEM FPR because I cannot afford to stockpile FPR yet. But Toyota FPR are readily available (specially 20Vs) at most kedai potong at very affordable price.
That's why I am giving a 6 months warranty against defect once the FPR is modded. If my modded FPR kong then I will replace it one-to-one with a standard OEM FPR (my loss of course). But I am building my AFPR to last hence MIG welds are used. I don't looked as fancy as most but it serves the puspose just like any reputed AFPR.
TQ for asking
Currently I have to use the customers own OEM FPR because I cannot afford to stockpile FPR yet. But Toyota FPR are readily available (specially 20Vs) at most kedai potong at very affordable price. That's why I am giving a 6 months warranty against defect once the FPR is modded. If my modded FPR kong then I will replace it one-to-one with a standard OEM FPR (my loss of course). But I am building my AFPR to last hence MIG welds are used. I don't looked as fancy as most but it serves the puspose just like any reputed AFPR. TQ for asking [/b][/quote] i want to ask if my car is standard it's can be used got any improvement of performance ..... another question do u do for non Toyota car iam driving Kelisa :) |
Hey Abel,
No harm in asking.
Performance is quite subjective to how you tune them.
I cannot give guarantee any performance increase simply to spice up the item/services that I sell.
Well look at it this way. With an adjustable FPR unit, now you can tune your EFi fuelling behavior to a certain degree that it is similiar to tuning a carburetor. As we know for EFi, fuel are almost 100% managed by ECU and most of us don't want to mess with the ECU - so the other way round we can tune Fuel feed is by increasing or decreasing the Fuel Pressure injected. Normally for NA tuning, an increase of 1 to 2 PSI is enough to add grunts to Throttle Response and Acceleration, or if the car is already running rich mixture, leaning it out a bit will do significant difference.
Bottomline is, with OEM FPR you don't have the choice to run the Fuel Pressure you want, so make it adjustable so that it can be tuned to suit your need.
I can share you my past experience with AFPR. First I will have to know what are the normal OEM Pressure Level for my engine. Then I start with decreasing the pressure and do a test drive for a day or two. Then, if the engine seemed to be having "flat spot" on acceleration, I will bump it up another PSI and test again. i will keep adding pressure by 1 PSI increment until I can almost smell fuel from the exhaust. So start decreasing the pressure again to get the best setup between the ones that have been done before. Remember, more fuel does not necessarily means more power - in fact an overly rich mixture will make RPM slow and flat spot at high RPM. Finally memorizing all the setup that I have done before, I went for Dyno reading to see if my "feel" tuning is correct. From Dyno results I know now at which PSI is the optimum range for my car. Without A-FPR, all this is not possible.
TQ for reading.
No harm in asking.
Performance is quite subjective to how you tune them.
I cannot give guarantee any performance increase simply to spice up the item/services that I sell.
Well look at it this way. With an adjustable FPR unit, now you can tune your EFi fuelling behavior to a certain degree that it is similiar to tuning a carburetor. As we know for EFi, fuel are almost 100% managed by ECU and most of us don't want to mess with the ECU - so the other way round we can tune Fuel feed is by increasing or decreasing the Fuel Pressure injected. Normally for NA tuning, an increase of 1 to 2 PSI is enough to add grunts to Throttle Response and Acceleration, or if the car is already running rich mixture, leaning it out a bit will do significant difference.
Bottomline is, with OEM FPR you don't have the choice to run the Fuel Pressure you want, so make it adjustable so that it can be tuned to suit your need.
I can share you my past experience with AFPR. First I will have to know what are the normal OEM Pressure Level for my engine. Then I start with decreasing the pressure and do a test drive for a day or two. Then, if the engine seemed to be having "flat spot" on acceleration, I will bump it up another PSI and test again. i will keep adding pressure by 1 PSI increment until I can almost smell fuel from the exhaust. So start decreasing the pressure again to get the best setup between the ones that have been done before. Remember, more fuel does not necessarily means more power - in fact an overly rich mixture will make RPM slow and flat spot at high RPM. Finally memorizing all the setup that I have done before, I went for Dyno reading to see if my "feel" tuning is correct. From Dyno results I know now at which PSI is the optimum range for my car. Without A-FPR, all this is not possible.
TQ for reading.
Pics of the RM30 Fuel Pressure Gauge - with RM3 T Joint connected at the back.
This gauge is an Industrial type so accuracy is very good. Compared with most gauges, the reading on this one does not vibrate as wildly.
This gauge is an Industrial type so accuracy is very good. Compared with most gauges, the reading on this one does not vibrate as wildly.
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How it is mounted on a 20V engine bay. Directly taps into the primary fuel feed to the fuel rail - any better place to get fuel pressure reading?
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