Difference between L2 and L5?

jc-det engine is very rare to get and yet the price is like buying b16a halfcut.. there's only one person at mudah sell only engine 'kosong" of jc-det which is already 8k. your L5 jb-jl/det is tunable but yet has its limit due to hard to find performance parts. but L5 achieving 140 to 160 whp is no alien to others.. u just need to get the right parts and the right tuners.

So the safest is still EF-RL and yet potential to hit more than 160hp LOL! :rofl:

Ok so the JC is too rare.. and the L5 is unreliable once u do a turbo mod.. err any other options?

Other options is to stick to EF-JL or EF-RL :biggrin:

get a JB-DET + ct9 turbo, that simple mod can get 160++ whp :love:

Hard to find JB-DET wor bro. EF-DET with ct9 turbo :smile:
 
Hahah. I thinn I have not mentioned that I need a engine which requires any endorsement. My car aint passing shit..hahaha. so looks like my choice is pretty limited huh?..
 
Hahah. I thinn I have not mentioned that I need a engine which requires any endorsement. My car aint passing shit..hahaha. so looks like my choice is pretty limited huh?..

You mean you need an engine that requires no endorsement? Don't get u bro.
 
No no.. I mean my car cannot be endorsed anymore.. I need to work within a engine that does not require any endorsement.. as im already on the jbjl so I need to consider that problem

---------- Post added at 07:16 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

I have modded the car so badly that its not going to pass any puspakom or jpj test.. and worse there is not turning back oredi
 
No no.. I mean my car cannot be endorsed anymore.. I need to work within a engine that does not require any endorsement.. as im already on the jbjl so I need to consider that problem

lemme give you a secret, :listen:

after i change to engine lantai last year... never bothered to register since it's the same

so go for JB-DET or JC-DET... from the outlook, it'll still the same...

so no worries JPJ kacau wan...

* but need to wear standard kancil bodikit lor* :biggrin:
 
As long as change engine has to go endorse right? And endorsement means bringing the car to puspakom right?

---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

Anyway not to go??

---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

Papagoines... u teaching me to be bad boy huh.. hehehe.. its either that or I have to convert my baby for full track use only
 
If so... go for gtti or yrv engine lor... baru gila kuasa :D

# Replied via Tapatalk on my mobile. Apologies for typos & brevity

In other words if want endorse, might as well go big? LOL!

lemme give you a secret, :listen:

after i change to engine lantai last year... never bothered to register since it's the same

so go for JB-DET or JC-DET... from the outlook, it'll still the same...

so no worries JPJ kacau wan...

* but need to wear standard kancil bodikit lor* :biggrin:

Like your kancil lo. Sleeper car :rofl: If L5 bodykit sure kena stop :rofl:

Actually what happens if kena stop and found out didnt endorse? Worse to worse go inspection to get endorse?
 
At first I really dig L2 Moderno or Opti... then I realize that I like the original Kancil round-eyes look more, especially the SE ones. :rolleyes:

Don't be mad, I thought that you either wants a track car or one of those hardcore owner who doesn't give a damn what the authority says

In your case, i think better like this

1. Swap back with a std kancil kit, as long as its no more than 3 colors. Don't think it'll cost much

2. Swap in JB-DET or JC-DET, and use back ori exhaust just for endorsement sake

3. Endorse the lil beast

4. Then went nut again :D

5. Kept the ori kit n exhaust. If got caught, swap back and go for mandatory inspection and pay fines. Better than your car kena sita

# Replied via Tapatalk on my mobile. Apologies for typos & brevity
 
As much as I would like to reverse its no more a option oredi. You guys seen my car right? The kit is a built into the frame.. especially the rear segment.. moreover my new wheel tracks makes it even more impossible to move back..
 
As much as I would like to reverse its no more a option oredi. You guys seen my car right? The kit is a built into the frame.. especially the rear segment.. moreover my new wheel tracks makes it even more impossible to move back..

Oh ya! really forgot your wide-body conversions

JPJ official is a finicky lot, today you might got summons to do inspection and pay fines... tomorrow could be kena sita

that's why I say, it does not matter really what engine that you use, your body surely attract lots of attention... be it good or bad
 
Its true also la.. well this car dont go to places at night most of the time stay at my factory.. so less worried... got other rides I can fly with..
 
If a properly done up L5.. whatever that means.. to say 120whp, would it still be reliable? Im not going to drive it everyday rather off and on, but I have a habit of hammering the engine hard when I drive. Also when tune up does using ron97 help? Cause im already on Ron 97 full on my other car then might as well just go the same with the kancil just to be safe.

Also what would be the best piggyback comp to use on the jbjl.

Anyway just a lil explaination of why I "require" to have at least a 120whp engine.. well im running a full wide body kancil, previously was running a complete stretch 165/40 16 which handles like crap and I was on this humongous spacer (75mm). Now im completely rebuilding the lower arm to accomodate a proton waja hub with a additional 100-120mm wheel track and later to getting custom shocks fitted in. Moreover im switching to 195/50 r15.. which can be quite a drag if the engine is not powerful enough. You all know la when the car is stable and not powerful then it will feel extra slow..
 
If a properly done up L5.. whatever that means.. to say 120whp, would it still be reliable? Im not going to drive it everyday rather off and on, but I have a habit of hammering the engine hard when I drive. Also when tune up does using ron97 help? Cause im already on Ron 97 full on my other car then might as well just go the same with the kancil just to be safe.

Also what would be the best piggyback comp to use on the jbjl.

Anyway just a lil explaination of why I "require" to have at least a 120whp engine.. well im running a full wide body kancil, previously was running a complete stretch 165/40 16 which handles like crap and I was on this humongous spacer (75mm). Now im completely rebuilding the lower arm to accomodate a proton waja hub with a additional 100-120mm wheel track and later to getting custom shocks fitted in. Moreover im switching to 195/50 r15.. which can be quite a drag if the engine is not powerful enough. You all know la when the car is stable and not powerful then it will feel extra slow..

Could try getting the Synergy Aluminium Radiator. Recommended that to prevent car from overheat. Seems track proven for L2s. L5 not sure. That time I was so into EF-JL then advise from 4banger I think to take EF-RL which is newer but same output as EF-JL.

Then came back Papagoines, poisoned with L5 Engine liao. Such as JBDET and JCDET. 4banger one is EF-DET. Which is also not easy to find I guess. JBJL and EFRL very common.

If that's the case, your car even with Kancil 660cc carb engine also will kena block with that bodykit. Maybe just turn it into track car? Unless ur area less JPJ Blocks then is fine.

Kepong area famous for all these road blocks.
 
Haha. Subang dont seem to be that famous for JPJ yet.. if I gonna do full track I might as well dump in a YRV turbo engine. But again if I was going full track then I might build my own chassis
 
if u want to stick to ur current engine, maybe dump in TD04-09, larger fuel pump, detomaso injector, piggyback n tune up sure work..
or if u dont want to, get a kelisa BOT or if u crazy enuf get YRV to fit.. YRV sure fit but need to hammer here n there and cut some part..
 
@kennyyeoh:

So far, majority of the times JB series are quite reliable up to 150whp... even though you whack it hard, you're not daily driven it, so just ensure
  1. Cooling requirements are well taken care off. as per Supra_Fanatics recommended, a thicker aluminium radiator with low temp thermostat will do wonders... oil cooler is a great addition
  2. ensure engine warm enough before whacking it, better install a good water temp meter with warning buzzer just to be sure. install a oil temp meter if oil cooler is installed
  3. change engine oil, if daily drive follow 5k mileage... if not, follow 3 months duration... use good quality full-synth engine oil

these so-called "stage 0" modifications are vital for any hi performance engines

per pigyback, remembered that JB-JL has 2 setbacks in term of tunability
  1. TPS only sees "on" and "off"... unlike JB-DET or newer that can see throttle openings at % value
  2. ignition still separately controlled by the distributor

my sifu once said, get emanage or unichip as a great investment.... although its pretty useless in tuning against TPS and/or ignition... but still these can accomodate wider rev bands... plus it'll continue to be usefull if swapping to the DET or even better, a JC-DET :love:

or, if money no objects, get a JB-DET intake manifold + TPS and tune it using standalone like haltech/microtech etc...

refer link below as inspiration if want to built a proper track kancil :adore:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_109795/article.html

@Supra_Fanatics
EF-DET + kelisa block + CT9 turbo + standalone = :adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore:

---------- Post added at 09:17 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:15 AM ----------

if u want to stick to ur current engine, maybe dump in TD04-09, larger fuel pump, detomaso injector, piggyback n tune up sure work..
or if u dont want to, get a kelisa BOT or if u crazy enuf get YRV to fit.. YRV sure fit but need to hammer here n there and cut some part..

ah yes, td04-09b... best turbo with wide range of torque for keicar... regardless of cylinder counts

with a hammer you say? beginning to visualize as jeremy clarkson :biggrin::burnout:
 
So check list for now if I dont decide to change the engine will be to go...
1. TD04-09
2. Larger fuel pump (any recommendation?)
3. Detomaso Injectors (cc?)
4. Piggy Back (Emanage - blue or gold?)
5. Synergy aluminum Radiator
6. Low temp thermostat.
7. Oil Cooler.
8. Full synth oil (recommendations?)

As for TPS I might be able to get a tps sensor to feed the piggy.. hmm..

Bro money is always a object.. just how big of a object. Haha. Better than tuning those big cars..

Thanks for the feedback and advice so far.. been superbly helpful.. now at least im starting to see a direction to move..

---------- Post added at 09:38 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:32 AM ----------

5a8a9ety.jpg


---------- Post added at 09:38 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:38 AM ----------

Thats my new lower arm and ball joint in the works.
 
@kennyyeoh:

So far, majority of the times JB series are quite reliable up to 150whp... even though you whack it hard, you're not daily driven it, so just ensure
  1. Cooling requirements are well taken care off. as per Supra_Fanatics recommended, a thicker aluminium radiator with low temp thermostat will do wonders... oil cooler is a great addition
  2. ensure engine warm enough before whacking it, better install a good water temp meter with warning buzzer just to be sure. install a oil temp meter if oil cooler is installed
  3. change engine oil, if daily drive follow 5k mileage... if not, follow 3 months duration... use good quality full-synth engine oil

these so-called "stage 0" modifications are vital for any hi performance engines

per pigyback, remembered that JB-JL has 2 setbacks in term of tunability
  1. TPS only sees "on" and "off"... unlike JB-DET or newer that can see throttle openings at % value
  2. ignition still separately controlled by the distributor

my sifu once said, get emanage or unichip as a great investment.... although its pretty useless in tuning against TPS and/or ignition... but still these can accomodate wider rev bands... plus it'll continue to be usefull if swapping to the DET or even better, a JC-DET :love:

or, if money no objects, get a JB-DET intake manifold + TPS and tune it using standalone like haltech/microtech etc...

refer link below as inspiration if want to built a proper track kancil :adore:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_109795/article.html

@Supra_Fanatics
EF-DET + kelisa block + CT9 turbo + standalone = :adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore:

ah yes, td04-09b... best turbo with wide range of torque for keicar... regardless of cylinder counts

with a hammer you say? beginning to visualize as jeremy clarkson :biggrin::burnout:

Really sifu of all sifu on Kei Cars bro. U are just like a walking encyclopedia for K-Car mods bro. Really if can be as good and knowledgeable as u in this.

You have just made me lock on my hunt for that engine :adore: Thanks!
No more headache what engine to get now :biggrin:

But EF-DET parts easy to find ka bro? LOL! Can just use kelisa parts? Usually EF-DET is from L700 and above K-Car?

---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------

So check list for now if I dont decide to change the engine will be to go...
1. TD04-09
2. Larger fuel pump (any recommendation?)
3. Detomaso Injectors (cc?)
4. Piggy Back (Emanage - blue or gold?)
5. Synergy aluminum Radiator
6. Low temp thermostat.
7. Oil Cooler.
8. Full synth oil (recommendations?)

I not sure which car type u should get for L5 engine for the Synergy Radiator.

Only found Viva/Kelisa/Kenari and also this L2 Auto for RM400+

Synergy Radiator Kancil - VEHICLES for sale in Malaysia - Mudah.my
 

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