DIY Voltage Stabilizer

bro don,

i think u have some misconception bout battery voltage.... a typical "healthy" car battery voltage is 12.5V altho it is commonly known as 12V.. when it gets weaker over time.. the voltage will be around 12.0V or slightly lesser...

when u start the engine.. the alternator will be running... so the average voltage will increase... due to the voltage supply from the alternator.... it varies from 13.0V to 14.4V.. depending on the charge available in the battery...

a battery with NS60L rating means it can supply a constant 60 ampere for an hour... same as 60Ah if i'm not mistaken... and a 12V potential will not be enough to run through our human body as the voltage is so low.. altho the current is high... so i dun think its dangerous to our body...

yes... most electronics items in the car have an input range of voltage from around 11V to 16V, in order to cope up with the fluctuating voltage supply from the car...

since u are DIYing a 160,000uf VS... make sure u use a 10w or 20w 12v bulb in series to slow down the charging rate of ur VS during installation..(i guess u know wat i mean)... else u will make a big spark... n may shorten the lifespan of the caps..

just my 2 cents...
 
khguan said:
bro don,

i think u have some misconception bout battery voltage.... a typical "healthy" car battery voltage is 12.5V altho it is commonly known as 12V.. when it gets weaker over time.. the voltage will be around 12.0V or slightly lesser...

when u start the engine.. the alternator will be running...


just my 2 cents...

khguan.. appreciate the comments... BUT, its dangerous man. how i know?
once i shorted when holding a fractured plug cable during engine run. feels current run thru and hurts. and once, i accidentally shorted my hand across terminal when sweating.. also feels shock. my immediately kick itself forward... hahah.. lucky not injured or stuck there.

do u know u can die if chg battery in the rain?? it happened in real life. some one got shocked from battery n die there. Even ur battery is LOW voltage.. but its the CURRENT that kills.

by the way, thx for tips on spark during installation!:regular_smile:
 
welcome bro ;)

well...FYI, plug cable's voltage is much much higher than 12V.. it is already stepped up to about 20-40kV by the coil... i'm not sure the exact voltage... n the current at dat voltage will be very much smaller than the battery's current...

u just need 0.5 ampere to kill somebody... no need much.. but the voltage must be high enough to flow through ur skin or body... this is wat i learn in physics in form 6... i have been playing with car battery for so long... nothing happened to me... even if my hands are on both terminals...
 
donCityZ said:
khguan.. appreciate the comments... BUT, its dangerous man. how i know?
once i shorted when holding a fractured plug cable during engine run. feels current run thru and hurts. and once, i accidentally shorted my hand across terminal when sweating.. also feels shock. my immediately kick itself forward... hahah.. lucky not injured or stuck there.

do u know u can die if chg battery in the rain?? it happened in real life. some one got shocked from battery n die there. Even ur battery is LOW voltage.. but its the CURRENT that kills.

by the way, thx for tips on spark during installation!:regular_smile:

erm... this is interest.... i think ur skin resistance always keep low at normal condition...

Maybe this link can help you....

ELECTRONICS SAFETY
 
khguan said:
u just need 0.5 ampere to kill somebody... no need much.. but the voltage must be high enough to flow through ur skin or body... this is wat i learn in physics in form 6... i have been playing with car battery for so long... nothing happened to me... even if my hands are on both terminals...

You're so bloody thick skinned, of course the voltage cannot get through la!
:vroam:

:biggrin:

:rofl:
 
Wow... I've sifted from Page 1 to Page 49 today and what a loadful!

(eyes gettin blur too!):retarded:

Well.. I hope my question wasn't discussed from Page 50 onwards!

The schematic diagram is good, but does not show the arrangement of capacitance. For example, should I arrange my 6pcs of 470µF first ... then next 6 pcs of 1000µF and so on?

THanks a bunch!
 
a ha.... i see!

cos i did read somewhere bout arrangin them in a certain manner...

anyho... thanks for the quick reply!

hope my little DIY project works.... still in the process of collecting the materials!

any tips or pointers?
 
make sure u do a nice soldering job so dat it will last... n risk less short circuit chances.... use a FUSE for protection....

good luck!
 
Thanks khguan!

I'll post up pix once I'm done. Waiting for good caps to arrive....hoping they will last longer :)

Bob
 
hey khguan..
now im soldering 8200uF x 18pcs =0.14F ecaps...
i used monster cables (for audio one.. damn thick)..
just bought lugs ring also..
what fuse value should use for it? any suggestion?
 
doncityZ,

u should mix with some different values of cap to cope with different frequencies of fluctuations...

using a fuse of 10A or 15A is good enough... Pivot is using 15A.... the VS i selling last time was using 10A... fine also...

for the cables... 8ga to 10ga is good... no need too thick... thick cable only look nice... u wun need dat thick for VS usage...
 
Hi there, newbie here...read ALL the posts...still wondering whether VS is just a bunch of parellel capacitors, a 15A fuse on the positive, and 2 wires? Wanna DIY myself too..rm150 for pivot is exp! any detailed electronic schematic? incl capacitor details?
 
hmm.. khguan..

im wondering if 4100uF 2 pcs will be different effect with 1 pc of 8200uF? (for argument sake only, i know 4100 not exist)...

so far in my work, i find parallel cap adds up the value in total. no difference if use 2x4100 or 1x8200.
 
Anyone seen pivot voltage spark internals? is it the same as other VS'ses? i know it connects to the car's fusebox. Any suggestions or opinion on how to make that? Or isit the same?
 
subaruimpreza81 said:
the capacitor polarity.........who can tellme the white line at capasitor... that + or -

normally should be Negative (-)... for double confirm... do u mind post photo....
 
http://www.elektropage.com/basicparts/images/cond_but.JPG

The white bar facing us is negative. Electronics symbols :

+ve ----| (---- -ve
 

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