Help!! Car Can't Start

[rivers]

Hi All,

Urgent advice needed. I drive a Civic SR4 year 95, non-VTEC and the problem is the car can't seem to start for the last 2 days :confused_smile: . My mech has more or less diagnose the problem to be some burnt capacitor or something on the ECU - saw the black mark myself when he dismantle the ECU. Seems like this is causing no fuel signal and the engine check light remains on. In other words, the fuel injectors are not receiving any signal to inject fuel during start up.

Thing is this, he mentioned that there are 2 options:

1. Change the ECU - 1st quote from a halfcut shop was a whopping RM 1000 +-
2. Send back to technician to 'fix' the problem with the ECU by sothering back the burnt portion...which is likely to cost about RM 500+-

I am not too sure which is the best way to go:cry_smile: ..appreciate all sifu's advice...

 

[- J f D -]

I am not sure on what is the solution, but is the halfcut shop quoting u a stock ECU? Seems like a real whopper!

 

[Vagabond]

time to get a Hondata!

 

[type_one]

1000 for a stock ecu??? Gila kah?

 

[shiroitenshi]

ECU, you can opt for a rechipped sohc single cam vtec one.. I forgot the model number.. P28? P08? I forget, sorry.. just that it's the single cam vtec one.

I think can get below 1K with chipping.. ask around.

Edit: Just noticed you said non-vtec.. 1K is a bit crazy.. I think you better search around for better deals.

But then, I will give the workshop the benefit of the doubt and consider a few things.

a) a burn capacitor means there is a short, which means either water got in the ECU (unlikely, but could happen) or;

b) there is a wiring short somewhere, that may require a lot of troubleshooting, hence the steep price.

I'd suggest asking the workshop mechanic to detail why it costs 1K, when an ECU doesn't cost that much.

But fixing the ecu = rm500? that's something strange unless only the capacitor blew the tracks are usually shot, as usually a burned ECU component area's tracks lift when this happens, rendering a fix near impossible, unless wiring it seperately using thin gauge wires. An ugly fix, but it's a cheap way to salvage an ECU.. but 500? Wow.. untung besar tuh!

 

[rivers]

Mine if the P27..will the SOHC VTEC fit in properly? Any idea what should be a correct price range for the P27?

shiroitenshi,

The track does look blown up....my mech did mentioned that the price is steep but there aint a lot of people who are able to work on these problems...what should I do?

 

[udengfahlawi]

are u (and the mech) very certain it is indeed the ECU that is giving the problem in the first place?....have u at least borrow a working ECU from somewher and test it in your car?

 

[shiroitenshi]

Mine if the P27..will the SOHC VTEC fit in properly? Any idea what should be a correct price range for the P27?

shiroitenshi,

The track does look blown up....my mech did mentioned that the price is steep but there aint a lot of people who are able to work on these problems...what should I do?

Cannot, the earlier suggestion was because I thought you were running a b-series..

Then I noticed you said non-vtec, so the only choice but use back the original ECU, even though if the fuel and ignition maps would work on a single cam non vtec unit, the lack of VTM and VTEC solenoid connection will sure throw a checklight, and I have no ideas on cheap options on disabling those. Crome can do it, but I think that will simply add to the cost of the ECU, and I don't know how much people are charging for Crome chipping and rough base tune. I don't think it'll be cheap though, so back to square one... finding a non vtec ecu.

But first of all, better make sure the source of the short that killed the capacitor. if not, you put in new ecu, and burn that too, how?

Better talk to the workshop guy about it and clarify exactly what causes it in his opinion, and how he will make sure it doesn't happen when he plug in another ecu.

 

[rivers]

Do you think the short can be cause by a burnt relay cause the relay was also taken out and it smelled burnt as well..so i am not sure which one caused which one...

 

[crower75]

Do you think the short can be cause by a burnt relay cause the relay was also taken out and it smelled burnt as well..so i am not sure which one caused which one...

that's not for you to find out, it's on your mech...but you do have the obligation to know the reason and to ensure the mech has done his part to ensure that the same thing won't repeat itself.

RM1K for non VTEC ECU ????

X-FiLES : TrUsT No One

 

[shiroitenshi]

Do you think the short can be cause by a burnt relay cause the relay was also taken out and it smelled burnt as well..so i am not sure which one caused which one...

What relay?

Anyway.. hard to say unless I look at the car, but best check with your mech on why it's burnt... but 1K for a stock ECU is a killer, unless he is quoting you with wiring troubleshooting fees as well or incl new harness, in which case, if he's switching harnesses as well, then the price is reasonable. Switching harnesses takes less time than troubleshooting the whole thing.

 

[rivers]

I think the RM1k only includes the ECU....

The relay for fuel pump..

 

[shiroitenshi]

Well.. I think you can ask zth'ers on how often fuel relay burns and you'd get an idea.

1K is pretty steep for a non-vtec ecu. Yours is auto or manual? See if I can find a P27 for a lot less than 1K.

 

[budin99]

can u take the picture of burnt capacitor??? I might help u if you're in northern region.

If the cap only burnt it will easy to re-solder back. If the pad and thread also burnt it will be hard but still can be rework.

The important things is to know the Cap number.

 

[rivers]

Will try to take a photo of the burnt portion...looks as though the track was burnt as well..

shiroitenshi, my car is a manual..how much does a relay cost? Do let me know if you can find one...

 

[hattech-v]

i think i got that ecu. contact me if u interested. can test 1st...

 

[rivers]

Seems like its easier to get a P27 thats for auto..anyone knows whether I can use that for my manual car?

The full code is: 37820-P27-T01 ; 758-309979