Journey of my conversion

Topui,

My steering rack is the original unit. One output, one input. But my power steering pump, the one attached to the engine & pulleys is the HICAS unit, 3 outputs or inputs, not sure which one. Where to do u-turn?
 
wideawake

i see it now..

tint them windows black
paint the car 2K black
20" chromes

lower the car with TiTAN's

*taaaaaaaa- DAh!!
you've got a certified look PiMP MoBiLE !!

:lol: :D
 
Ninja,
on the way back, the steering fluid was empty again... the fluid was all over the place... what a mess. Hopefully I didn't destroy a bearing.
 
oh.. like that aa.. hmm... call the number i gave u. go and see the guy... if he's not busy ler. hehehehe.. shouldn't take more than an hour or 2 to settle. ;)

oh.. another thing, did u check the O-ring gaskets that's connected to the pump? sometimes it's just a matter of wrong size O ring at the hoses. happened to me before on my previous car. hmmm.. better check that. if that's the case, it's quite hard to see the leaks because once the flow stopped, there's no leak. hehehehe
 
Hi guys,

Sorrylah no update for a long time.. quite busy with work.. and the car is just sitting in my porch.

Coldair,
My search for the Land Cruiser brake booster has ended. Cannot find one with similar mountings. Finally I decided to make a bracket for the R32 booster that I have. Here is a picture of it.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/469000-469999/469065_3.jpg


When it's finished, I tried mounting it to the firehole, I mean... firewall.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/469000-469999/469065_4_full.jpg

Unfortunately, the hole diameter is too small. It will sangkut to the much thicker booster bracket. On the left is the original booster, and on the left is the R32 booster with the bracket on. There you can see what I mean. I even removed the rubber dust cover, but still it won't fit the firewall.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/469000-469999/469065_2_full.jpg


My plan is to enlarge the hole in the firewall. My question is, can it be done with a fire torch?? (the one welding shops has). And would it be safe to do it?
Cause I don't see any way I can drill onto that thick metal.

Thanks.
 
wideawake,
Have not seen any updates from you for a while already and I thought you got your power steering and brake booster problems sorted out, appearently not yet..

The Land Cruiser brake booster is not difficult to find, it's being used in other Toyota models as well. You still have your booster's spacing dimensions with you?, all you need is to find one that matches up. If I were you and for personal preference I would rather not cut the hole in the firewall. The bracket I made to fit the R32 brake booster is simple and needed no enlargement of the hole in the firewall, it's just that I used a different approach to your's. Too bad I don't have a digi-cam or else I can show you a picture of it. Perhaps you want to have a look at how mine is being done right before your very eyes?, let me know if you do.
 
Hi Coldair,
Just wondering, did you extend the length of the rod? Maybe we can meet up one day. Where r u from?
 
why don't you bring the brake booster to the machine shop and ask them to extend the rod length ? cause i`ve dont that to my clutch rod , cut the rod and the find another piece of rod that has the same teeth nut and the ask them to weld togather and skim those ugly welding marks .
 
I was looking for a solution that if the current one kaputs, I can buy one off the shelf and plug-and-play. Also I would have to drill some holes in the original bracket.
 
wideawake.
The way to stay as close to stock with minimum fuss is to get the Toyota
booster, all that is needed is disassemble and reassemble the booster and the master pump, a matter of getting it correctly orientated and you would not have
to bother enlarging the firewall hole. I don't remember exactly if I extended the
push rod, I may have switched push rod bracket from the R32 booster. I'll have
to look into my store room to dig out the R32 booster which had been moded.

You have PM. !.
 
Coldair,
I will call you on Friday to confirm.

In the meantime, I stumbled upon this site that has pictures of Toyota Land Cuiser brake boosters.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/brakboosfj19.html

Pic 1.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/469000-469999/469065_5_full.gif

Pic 2.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/469000-469999/469065_6_full.gif

Which one is yours? Can the batang fit the firewall hole which is 1.5" in diameter? And the screws look a little bit short don't you think?
 
wideawake,
Pic-1 is the one to source for, notice also the built-in check-valve in the very top picture?. You will need to discard the original check-valve in your Laurel and plumb the vacuum hose coming out from the manifold straight into the one as shown in Pic-1. You will need to get the master brake pump together with the booster as a complete assembly. If the screws are too short for your car then have them extended by means of welding another to it, you just reminded me, I may have done this extension too. I did nothing to the hole in the firewall so they should fit ok.
 
Hi guys,

A trip to a machine shop this afternoon ended with me coming home with a longer shaft in my R32 brake booster. (forgot to take picturelah).
Armed with some stainless steel screws and nuts, I used the nuts as spacers so that the distance between the booster and the firewall is just nice. My calculations this time is so ngam-ngam.

As of 11.00pm on Thursday, my brakes work!!!! Only the pedal feel is not so nice and travel is a bit long. I suspect a proper bleeding can solve it.

Next is my power steering pump. I drove around the housing area late at night without the power steering. And boy does the car struggle to turn. Must get the pump on my next trip to a chopshop. Maybe I'll drop by the chopshop that I did the conversion and see if I can exchange it.
 
if the travel is too long , can't you adjust the fork shaft pedal below the dashboard till you get the feel ?. by the way did you replace the pump seal ? cause it might be worn out , so thats why ur brakes doensn't have the feel .
 
Thanks vestax,
I realized this this morning when I was doing my business.. heheh...
I initially thought I would have to dismantle the whole thing to adjust the shaft. The I remembered that I can just twist the shaft from under the dashboard. Now I know why the shaft has some grooves.

What do you mean by pump seal? which one is this? The pump does not look like it can be dismantled.
 
well yeah to make it easier , dismantle the shaft pin from the pedal and then twist the nut and the fork to make the distance longer , cause if the distance is shorter the pump is not pressuring the brakes enough .

anyway the master cylinder has a seal inside it , the repair kit would cost about 20 to 30 bucks depending on the size of it and then u`ll need to bleed out the brake lines after replacing the seals . here is a picture of it , but its not the master cylinder repair kit , its the clutch repair kit , its looks something like this , anyway this just a sample to picture it . :lol:

well the sample shows the lower clutch pump seal and upper clutch pump seal and it works the same way as your brake pump .
 
Want pics aa?? Later laa... night already... the car is also quite dirty now... heheh....

Vestax, thanks for the tip. I have adjusted the shaft and the pedal feels great now. I think the master cylinder seal is still okay cause the one I used is in good condition. It's because I recently bought it at a chopshop.

On Saturday, I went out to look for the power steering pump. I found one at the shop on the way to Kapar, Klang.

Saturday evening was spent installing the damn thing. Now the power steering has been restored. I notice that the steering will be a bit heavy when the RPM is low. I think it's because of an absence of an Idle Speed Controller(ISC). I'm not sure whether it is possible to hook one up.
 
9 August 2004

Drove to Stanley's place this morning. When reaching there, found out that the power steering fluid is all over the place again. Damn lah.... I think there is something wrong with the system. The fluid all dried up already. Maybe the Rb20det pump is too powerful for the original power steering system. Or maybe the fluid is pumping in the wrong direction?

Maybe I'll consider changing the whole system to make it work properly. Have to make sure the mouting is compatible.
 

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