the best turbo engine 4 kelisa

i feel dizzy right now...
better print it out, change the front size
 
i already copy the whole thing and paste to word...later when free can read it...to long to read online...
 
taikor...heheh...no need so mahfan....just let me know what i need to do to make my car less oversteer ....
 
taikor...heheh...no need so mahfan....just let me know what i need to do to make my car less oversteer ....


This is what i gather from some forums, i hope this will help a bit:


Spring Rate Changes:Decrease front rate only
Decrease front rate only
Effect on Suspension : Front ride rate decreases. Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer.

Antiroll Bar Changes
Increase front rate
Effect on Suspension : Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or decreasing oversteer. May also reduce camber change, allowing better tire contact patch compliance with the road surface, reducing understeer.


Shock Absorber Changes
Decrease rebound rates only
Effect on Suspension : On bumps, tires follow track surface more effectively; car may continue to oscillate after bumps.

The Importance of Tire Temperatures

In the course of testing the handling of a car, use tire temperatures and driver feel to make adjustments. It is critical to monitor tire temperatures often. They offer valuable clues to the setup of the car. The areas of adjustment that tire temperatures are used for include: tire pressure, camber, body roll, shock settings, wheel width and transient handling response.

Reading:Front tires too hot
Handling problem : Understeer
Troubleshooting Tire Temperatures : Front tire pressures too low.

Solving Handling Problems

The key to setting up your suspension is in diagnosing what the handling problems are and resolving how to fix them. While car enthusiasts often baulk at the "black art" of suspension tuning, there's no reason to. As with working on the mechanical aspects of an engine, the trick to suspension tuning is in the troubleshooting; there is always a cause and an effect.

Problem : Steady state understeer
Manifestation : High-speed turns only
Solutions : f front tire temps are OK, increase front downforce.
If front tire temps are too hot, reduce rear downforce.

Problem : Corner entry understeer
Solutions : Front shocks are too soft in bump resistance.
Too much front toe-in; use a small amount of front toe-out.

Problem : Corner exit understeer
Solutions : Rear shocks are too soft in bump.
Front shocks are too stiff in rebound.

Problem : Straightline speed too slow
Solutions : Too much overall downforce.
Too much toe-in or toe-out.
Ride height is too high.
 
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How to Corner

Anyone who drives a car has to negotiate corners, but most people do it with very little understanding of what motions the car goes through when passing through a corner. This unfortunate fact often leads to crashes, which then leaves the driver without confidence and confused. Our learner driver system lacks the ability to instil this knowledge, which is gained only through experience.

To fully explain cornering we really need to have some understanding of a vehicle's dynamics and attitudes. The following terms will be referred to throughout this article:

Understeer: Front wheel skid, when you turn the steering wheel and the car continues to go straight ahead.

Oversteer: rear wheel skid, the sensation you get when you have turned into the corner and the rear of the car starts to spin around.

Pitch: The motion of the front of the car toward the ground, usually under braking.

Squat: The motion of the rear of the car toward the ground, occurs only under acceleration.

Roll: The rotational movement of one side of the car toward the ground during cornering.

Line: The route your car takes around a corner.

Apex: The clipping point, or point at which your car should be at the innermost section of a corner.

Entry: The point on the road where you should first start to steer into a corner.

Exit: The outermost point on the road when exiting a corner.

As with all driving techniques, absolute concentration and a focused line of vision are prerequisites. The earlier you can absorb information about an approaching corner, the better prepared you will be negotiate it successfully. For example, a blind corner will require a slower entry than an open sweeping corner - unless you are 100 per cent familiar with it and are sure there are no obstructions on the exit. However, public roads have one huge disadvantage compared to racetracks - they may have traffic coming the other way!

With the corner sussed, it is now time to set your car up for the correct position for entry. Purely as an example, we will use an open 90 degree left hand corner.

Let's assume that you have read my previous articles on steering and braking, and therefore you have the car on the brakes and have smoothly engaged the correct gear to negotiate the corner. The first thing you should try to do is to imagine the correct line through the corner. This should be the straightest path between its entry and exit. By taking this line you will reduce roll on the car to achieve a more even contact on all four tyres. The result is less chance of understeer or oversteer, and therefore mid corner speed is also maintained.

You need to position the car as far out to the right hand side as possible, possibly even on the white dividing line. (Throughout this story a right-hand drive car is used as the example! - Ed) This gives you a nice wide entry and allows you to see the apex sooner through the turn. At this stage you are also easing smoothly off the brake pedal, so as not to upset the balance. With the car pitched forward you are also getting better bite from your front tyres, giving increased control.

From the entry point you now need to aim the car toward the apex. The apex can vary depending on the situation, but on most road corners it is slightly past the half-way point in the corner. It's now when you will find out if you have slowed the car sufficiently - too fast an entry will cause you to miss an apex and subsequently run wide at the exit. In motor racing we commonly refer to the "slow in, fast out" technique, because although unspectacular, it equates to faster lap times. Time on a racetrack is gained accelerating out of corners and down straights - not under brakes!

Assuming you've made it to the apex, you should now be looking toward your exit point, which should be back out near the white line in the centre of the road. Power can start to be reapplied from the apex, causing the car to squat to allow for more traction (jn a rear wheel drive car, anyway!). The car will naturally tend to drift toward the centre of the road, and you should encourage this with use of the throttle, while also straightening the steering. If you have judged it correctly and have followed these steps, the car will remain balanced, enabling you to continue accelerating down the next piece of straight road.

Above all, be smooth. It will provide reduced fuel consumption, less wear and tear on the vehicle and your passengers will thank you at the end of the journey.

Entering a given corner too fast on a public road can lead to life-threatening circumstances. The first thing you will miss is the apex, usually because the car will start to understeer due to increased front tyre loads. Once you've exceeded you tyres' traction level and the car is understeering, there is not much you can do. The wait until the car slows down enough that traction is returned will seem like an eternity. Light pressure on the brake pedal may assist in this situation by pitching the car forward and aiding front wheel traction, but brake too hard and understeer will soon turn into an "out of control" circumstance.

This is why it is so important that "the slow in, fast out approach" is adopted. On exiting a corner you do not want to run wide onto the other side of the road and be confronted by on-coming traffic. If you do find yourself misjudging a corner and taking it a little fast, don't be scared to use some of the dirt inside the apex to give yourself some more room to exit. The drivers behind will hate you for it, but it's better than being involved in a head-on accident.

Judging road conditions is probably one of the hardest things motorists confront, and I'm not just talking about wet weather conditions. If you can see a corner is off-cambered (sloping away from the apex) you can be pretty sure it will tend to make the car understeer toward the outside of the road. Positive camber corners (sloping toward the apex) will offer higher grip, thus increasing the speed at which they can be taken. Sometimes it may even be necessary to change your line through a corner to prevent going over the loose gravel dragged onto the road by the large truck just ahead.

Road designers do their best, but you will always find bad conditions just around the corner. Remember, there are no such thing as "horror corners", just people who do not drive with enough appreciation of their own abilities. Think about what is actually happening while you drive and maybe even invest in some advanced driving tuition - it may be an investment in life.
 
wahhhhhhhhhhhhh

i can't stand it!!!!
better copy down, coz i just change new spec... really feel dizzy now.
just finish lunch, anytime will vomit
 
wahhhhhhhhhhhhh

i can't stand it!!!!
better copy down, coz i just change new spec... really feel dizzy now.
just finish lunch, anytime will vomit

i tot u might like to know more about car stuff ma,like tat i better stop, scare u blame me for making u wear thick glass like "Lam Ah Chan" :biggrin:
 
Hmm....
mine still stock

need some affordable product to upgrade
abs+spring
 
2k....
still abit far from budget ler...
1k can get wht stuff? or below....

my kelisa sell liao...cant get back a single sen.... still own the bank alotsssss
 

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