Clutch/Exhaust/BOV.. 4 Evo

hello, where to get tht piece on the roof alongside with the antenna ar?..is it from evo 9? damn cool.. thanx
 
Onnbc,

Which Evo is yours? If CP9A, I have a spare original ECU for you to try, at least you can narrow down the causes after you eliminate faulty ori ECU as one possible causes.

Cheers
 
mobilo,

Yo bro, how r u doing??? Hehehe... When wanna TT with us ah??? :_: Ok, actually Mr.oonbc is on CT9A!!! Anyway, thx for ur kind kind offer n help here... Any chance of having ori CT9A - E8 ECU for him to test on???

Thx!
 
storm,

The timing isn't ngam yet la, plus I'm always away.....diff to say.
Sorry, I don't have any E8 ECU.

I think better an MLOC member with E8 to take out his ori ECU and let him try, rather than Onnbc buys a 2nd hand ECU and found out that's not the problem.

After all, this is what a group like this is for, helping each other.

Just my thoughts........unless Onnbc is loaded...hehee

Cheers
 
hi guys, thanks alot of for all the advice and offers... really appreciate it :) indeed my FC is fxxking high... sobb** sobb**

i was at the workshop yesterday whole day trying to find out the problems. end up i have to sms my boss and tell him my car is sick, need to bring him to hospital n i hv to on emergency leave... :P

anyway, my ride is e8. the mod. is not much as below:
MR actuator
adjustable pully
bigger manifold, bananas
iridium plug

using original
ecu (checked by GT auto), fuel pump, turbine, don hv fuel regulator.

so yesterday the machanic change something:
removed the anti-lag (pls advise is this ok or i should put it back?)
pully adjustment, advance abit more for the exhaust

before the changes, my exhaust temp is always around 400deg, but now its running around 600-700deg. at 150km/h. is this too lean? also, when the car standing, the engine sound is like having a high cam car, voor voor voor....

really need desperate help... cant sleep at night too when think about my car problem... very sad :"(
 
oonbc,
Like I've suspected that day, is too RICH ! Your fren (or mechanic?) suggested to change fuel pump and I 'diu kau' it that day..remember ? I was saying why change fuel pump if u are not even boosting high or has a ecu to tune it.

If u plan to go for future mods, what cannonfodder said is true..save your money for a full ECU (like PFC) or at least, get a decent piggyback. But then, most likely u'll end up selling your piggyback or throw it somewhere under the closet when u wants to go for Full ECU tuning..

My advice, save the money and get a full ECU. One time shot...and also if you can get a ori e8 ecu to test, that might be good also. Coz make no sense for your stock ecu to be so bloody rich. Ori ECU is rich but not as rich as yours la...until underpower ler..hehe.

Ok..lastly dun worry. You'll get there..just be patience and think carefully what is your future plans. if u really wants a cheap solution, get a SAFC lor. 2nd hand also can la. pakai 1st...the boost pressure sensor all this crap no need 1st la if u want to budget !
 
oonbc said:
hi guys, thanks alot of for all the advice and offers... really appreciate it :) indeed my FC is fxxking high... sobb** sobb**

How high is high la ? 5km / L ??

oonbc said:
anyway, my ride is e8. the mod. is not much as below:
MR actuator
adjustable pully
bigger manifold, bananas
iridium plug

using original
ecu (checked by GT auto), fuel pump, turbine, don hv fuel regulator.

Did you check the injector if it's ori 560cc ?? And how they check is a original ECU ? Myself & Cyilaw that day, we also did visual inspection mah. But can easily rechipped the ECU (quick & cheap solution) and still using the ori case and board/socket so is quite hard to tell sometimes. Coz I can't think of other reason the original ECU a/f ration varies so much.

oonbc said:
so yesterday the machanic change something:
removed the anti-lag (pls advise is this ok or i should put it back?)
pully adjustment, advance abit more for the exhaust
I don't see any connection between the anti-lag with your problem. Is ok not to have it la..haha. Pully adjustment for exhaust advancement timing seems good.

oonbc said:
before the changes, my exhaust temp is always around 400deg, but now its running around 600-700deg. at 150km/h. is this too lean? also, when the car standing, the engine sound is like having a high cam car, voor voor voor....

Yeah..I was telling this that day. I observed your exhaust temp when Leslie was driving and I said no way your temp stays at 400deg after all the rev which is why I concluded is TOO RICH. Anything between 700-800 is about there (safe ratio)..slighty rich which is good la. Stock ECU will gives you exh temp reading of about 700-750deg consistently at high rev. It also depends on the location of your exh temp sensor..I remembered your sensor was placed properly (right before the turbo, in the upper manifold)

oonbc said:
really need desperate help... cant sleep at night too when think about my car problem... very sad :"(

If your mechanic can't do much, go back Penang ask our Penang Taiko, Notiguy or Soundstream to bring you around to help la. If still in KL, let us know (can contact leslie, me or Stormvolution9) and we arrange a weekend and bring you for 2nd or even 3rd opinion. But look at it from the positive side..at least your car still serves it's purposes rite ? Is still functioning and driveable ...besides the underpower problem and of course, high FC ! hehe..
 
B18C-R said:
oonbc,
Like I've suspected that day, is too RICH ! Your fren (or mechanic?) suggested to change fuel pump and I 'diu kau' it that day..remember ? I was saying why change fuel pump if u are not even boosting high or has a ecu to tune it.

If u plan to go for future mods, what cannonfodder said is true..save your money for a full ECU (like PFC) or at least, get a decent piggyback. But then, most likely u'll end up selling your piggyback or throw it somewhere under the closet when u wants to go for Full ECU tuning..

My advice, save the money and get a full ECU. One time shot...and also if you can get a ori e8 ecu to test, that might be good also. Coz make no sense for your stock ecu to be so bloody rich. Ori ECU is rich but not as rich as yours la...until underpower ler..hehe.

Ok..lastly dun worry. You'll get there..just be patience and think carefully what is your future plans. if u really wants a cheap solution, get a SAFC lor. 2nd hand also can la. pakai 1st...the boost pressure sensor all this crap no need 1st la if u want to budget !

you r rite, i bring the chart to the mechanic shop n i tiu kau him kuat kuat... then he said its too RICH n ask me put fuel regulator, then i tiu kau him again..

actually up to now i didnt have the desire to mod the car too much or tune my car to big big hp or super dupper fast... maybe future when always kena potong by u guys, then might consider la.. :P

thomas (GT) quote me 1.5k for installation n tune for e-manage. what do u all think about this solution? any other piggy back is recommended?

by the way, how much is a standard stand alone ecu? brand n cost n different?
 
B18C-R said:
How high is high la ? 5km / L ??

Did you check the injector if it's ori 560cc ?? And how they check is a original ECU ? Myself & Cyilaw that day, we also did visual inspection mah. But can easily rechipped the ECU (quick & cheap solution) and still using the ori case and board/socket so is quite hard to tell sometimes. Coz I can't think of other reason the original ECU a/f ration varies so much.

I don't see any connection between the anti-lag with your problem. Is ok not to have it la..haha. Pully adjustment for exhaust advancement timing seems good.

Yeah..I was telling this that day. I observed your exhaust temp when Leslie was driving and I said no way your temp stays at 400deg after all the rev which is why I concluded is TOO RICH. Anything between 700-800 is about there (safe ratio)..slighty rich which is good la. Stock ECU will gives you exh temp reading of about 700-750deg consistently at high rev. It also depends on the location of your exh temp sensor..I remembered your sensor was placed properly (right before the turbo, in the upper manifold)

If your mechanic can't do much, go back Penang ask our Penang Taiko, Notiguy or Soundstream to bring you around to help la. If still in KL, let us know (can contact leslie, me or Stormvolution9) and we arrange a weekend and bring you for 2nd or even 3rd opinion. But look at it from the positive side..at least your car still serves it's purposes rite ? Is still functioning and driveable ...besides the underpower problem and of course, high FC ! hehe..

before the advan exhaust, FC is btw 4-5km/l... so let see how is it after the adjustment..

after the dyno, thomas open up the ecu box n visually checking on the board if anyone did anything to it.. then he said it seems like original..

so exhaust temp 700-800 is normal ah.. then i pangsim abit... scared its too lean n engine might KABOOOMMM!!

i will be in KL this weekend, if u guys r free or can meet up, let me know la.. if anyone know any E8, n generous to borrow me the original ecu to test my E8 for awhile would be great!.. many thks... :_:
 
hello OONBC......if u need a reliable workshop call me.......u can get my number from president or vice president :)
 
guys,

have u all encounter engine fuse awiz burn ? causing your car cannot start ?

:angry_smile:
 
oonbc,

My advise is if you already have a banana manifold, adj cam pulley and such, you already changing the mechanics of your engine. I needs a different set of settings to work properly, mind you, i've blown a GSR 1.8 engine over tuning an adj cam pulley.... sooo get a full ECU that you can tune... my preference would be the Power FC... at 3K it's a good buy. e-manage will only give you control over the fuel mappings but not the other stuff like ignition, mapping against other sensors and such. Best performance is when you could tune your fuel map along with your ignition map in accordance to your sensor readings.
 
thanks for the advice.. i m new to turbo car n ECU etc... so really need input from you all taiko....

btw, i did do some research on the ecu things.. there is alot of piggy back n stand alone ecu...

holtech -
microtech -
apexi P-NBC -
FC -
FCon Vpro (same as FC?) -
emanage (blue, gold, ultimate) - piggy back
i heard for emanage need to buy the harness software cable or watever..

can anyone indicate the what is what n the estimated cost? after reading quite some forum about the ecu mod., thinking go for stand alone ecu now... pls advice taiko...
 
If you plan to mod your car for performance, not mild performance... but full performance eheheheh... then go for stand alone ecu. but make sure it can still cater for air cond and stuff as you still wanna drive on the streets...

my preference is ECU that can be re-mapped without any propiritry software which you need to go to the dealer of or tuner to re-tune... Power FC has it's own commander that you can attach, so does microtech... but these things costs a bomb....

if you opt for a piggyback, the only one I can review is the SMT 6 from Perfect Power... they come with a tuning software ... but you need a lap top for that. The SMT can tune fuel and ignition mapping. The beauty of it is that it does not trick the ECU but it changes the output of the ECU to your mappings. that means it is not limited to the tresholds of the ECU. Danger part is that you can over tune and KABOOOMMM...
 
btw, compare emanage and SMT6, which one will u recommend and what is their different?
 
I like the SMT 6,

Why?

1. You have more tuning maps on both fuel and ignition, e manage, SAFC and others give only fuel mapping.
2. it's like a mini ECU where you can monitor boost, fuel pressure and such
3. got 2 settings A and B where A can be fuel saving mode and B can be rip the scalp of your skull mode....
4. can do wonders with just a piggyback... like launch control, 'wife anti speed' control ...
5. got data logging...
6. on board tuning... no need to set the ECU to diagnostic mode to tune
7. you can learn to tune your own ..... but be careful

this is from thier website:

Feature Benefit
Throttle Sensor learning feature Fits to any throttle position
RPM Calibration To suite your installation
High RPM range Racing?
Fuel map with 128 sites Smooth Programming
Ignition Map with 128 sites Fine Ignition resolution
Injection Map with 128 sites For extra (boost!) injection
0 - 10 volt analogue range Allows tuning of all models
6 Amp injector drive Handles 6 x 16 ohm injectors
Various ignition outputs For the most stringent applications
Selectable Trigger points To suit
Programmable Cylinders It works on any amount of cylinders!
Selectable polarity To Suite
Can handle interlaced signal For 4 cylinders ignition output tuning
Balanced Inputs Inverted Outputs
Missing Tooth Signal For up to 2 teeth advance/retard
Ignition output limit Limits max. advance and retard
Fuel High low limit Prevents overdriving the ECU
Small Size Fits Anywhere
Low Battery Drain Simple Installation
Self Checking Test Available For Extra Confidence
Map Switchable While you drive
All Inputs Protected No mishaps!
Crystal Controlled For Stability
Encapsulated For Moisture and Dust
Easy Tuning Software DOS or WINDOWS
Low Component Count High MTBF
10 MIPS computing To facilitate quick engine response
Signal Conditioning To prevent miss trigger
Engine profiles (library) Easy set up
Lambda Signal Tuning Modification of Lambda Senor Readings
Proportional Nitrous Control Less waste of power in nitrous injection
Adjust Dwell Time For very basic standalone applications
Rpm / Airflow / Analogue Defection / Temp Switch Point For cam switch and similar applications

http://www.perfectpower.com/products/smt6.asp
 
Last edited:
wow, this is quite interesting... :) i hv a laptop, would be great to play around, haha.. hope not KABBOOMMM my car :P

by the way, where can i do the installation and has good experience on tuning for SMT6? is it have to do dyno tuning? lastly what would be the cost?
 
oonbc,

Hey bro, i think nowadays seldom got ppl wil choose this E-manage for Evos!!! For me, i'll b going for Apexi Pfc or F-Con iS next yr... Easier to get tuners n more common item ard town... :_:

My 2 cents...
 

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