DC5 Advice

[yks228]

synchromesh .

it's all about the synchromesh.

the dc5r gearbox has synchro problems usually between the first and 2nd and the fifth to sixth , at high revolutions.

there aren't really any aftermarket parts to help solve this issue, but i believe honda has come up with the solution with the face-lifted version, whereby they improved the synchro by using different materials.

can check at Amoil or Honda Malaysia.

so if i replace it, that problm still will come back?

 

[Vagabond]

Yks228: Problem may come back , BUT it'll probably last much longer than your current one.

Adrian, Another possibility is that your engine mounts have become too soft. During high revs, your engine tends to jerk too forward and doesn't allign properly with the transmission gearbox. that solution would be:
a) Replace your current engine mounts with Stock Honda DC5R ones or aftermarket engine mounts
b) engine mount Polyurethane Inserts
c) use a engine dampner to prevent too much engine movement.

But keep in mind, all aftermarket products to lessen engine movement tends to transfer the vibrations into the engine cabin, thus may slightly rattle certain moving parts a bit. but you will definately feel smoother engine shifting.




BB1Man:

Bro, I have my stock rotorsm, but what's the problem with yours ? If it's kind of private, can message me or call me to explain.

otherwise, why not use aftermarket rotors? you dont really have to go back to stock ones. there are a variety of brands available out there.



boulala :

mate, sorry for not answering your message earlier.
The thing is DC5 came with 2 specs:
spec A: bare spec, meant to be track ready.
Spec B: comfort spec- folding side mirrors, additional rear wiper, antaennae bulge on roof, and the rear compartment cover (what you're looking for)

and there may be another spec with something additonal as well , since i heard there was a Spec C too.

The thing is, my car is Spec A, which has the maximum weight savings (lack of additional electric motors and material) , but did not come with the cover you're seeking.

The best option you have at the moment is:
a) Honda Malaysia (if you know someone there, can get parts discount of up to 20%!!!)
b) Chop shops


Fobs:

You ain't seen my Car Condom yet bro ! it covers your exhaust pipe for spilling too much excess "oil" onto the road

 

[Vagabond]

YKS229:
adrian, another thing: it's very hard to prove to the shop you bought the car from that your synchromesh is problematic, as from my experience, it doesnt happen often and most of the time would be at high revolutions (correct me if i assumed wrong)

if you try to high rev while shifting, the car seller may accuse you or make some excuses that you're abusing the car too much , stock car, etc......... alot of bs.

they may just change the gear oil for you as each synchro is NOT CHEAP.

you might want to get an expert or a knowledgable friend along with you to help argue on your behalf...

 

[subcon]

vagabond,

i need your advice..

its time for me to change my engine oil. i'm in dilemma...which one is best suited for DC5?

i. RAVENOL RSS Racing Sport Synto 10W-60, or
ii. Torco SR-1 RACING SAE 20W-50

thanks

 

[subcon]

I need front disc rotor. :( some problems in mine. not critical....but the sort of problem that irritates the shit out of you.....today i went sunway and so NEARLY kena bakar and almost bought project miu.

But now, i have calmed down and realized i need stock rotors.

Vagabond, u got any stock rotor lying around? or anyone else here?

helppppppp

man,

how much they quote you for the project miu?

 

[Vagabond]

subcon:

10w-60 is good if you're going for endurance . long distance high temperature drives without an engine oil cooler, as it's high temperature tolerance will prevent the oil from cooking (coking) and dissipation.

20w-50 is too thick for an i-vtec engine ...... you're going to notice sluggish performance.

for city drives, 0w-30 or 4w-50 is pretty good, gives you good engine response with reasonable heat tolerance.

in japan, there's not an exact "right" formula ..... you'll see people racing with 10w-60 to 0w-20 !!!!

The best oil, from multiple testings would be the 0w-50 ........ honestly, it combines fuel saving, with GREAT engine response and reasonable heat tolerance.
Problem is, it's kind of expensive!

try not to use oils meant for turbo cars .... it's kind of too heavy, and tend to be rather sluggish, the difference is noticable.

vtec, as a rule, go for as light as you can, and if you're driving long distance, as heat tolerant as possible. it's a ......... compromise , i would say.

 

[Vagabond]

project Mu rotors for the DC5 comes in 2 varieties.

a higher and a lower end one, both with different pricing. for updated pricing, you might want to check around the stockist at sunway.

my suggestion, don't buy high temperature brakes (rotors or pads) unless you're going around track or touge alot.

 

[Vagabond]

bb1man:

please remember , squeeky brakes is NORMAL, especially when you're using high temperature pads with stock rotors.

just ensure that the grip / bite of the brakes feel right, according to the operating temperature of the compound.

 

[subcon]

vagabond,

Thank you for the insight…it helps a lot!

In that case it’s 10w-60 engine oil for me then. Just for the record, 4 liters of 10w-60 grade oil would cost you around RM250.

on the other hand, Torco SR-1 RACING SAE 20W-50 is about RM85 perlitre!

 

[Vagabond]

4 liters of 0w-60 shouldnt be so expensive.... .... if it was, i'd definately go for Eneos 0w-50.

shop around, you'll see other brands of 0w-60 below RM200 per 4 liters.

 

[subcon]

You speak very highly of the eneos 0w-50. Maybe I should check it out!

 

[boulala]

i going to change my gear oil tomorrow. any recommendation. which best for our DC5 lsd. maybe some that can reduce the noise of the lsd and make it smoother when shifting. thanks.

 

[yks228]

Vagabond: thank for reply me n gave lot of advice

boulala: i had search around. honda MTF II or III r good for our car. but i havn't try yet, coz i just changed mine to Motul [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Gear Competition 75W140 and the gear problem is still there :( [/FONT].
once u try, pls update me how it work...

 

[Vagabond]

subcon:
i mean , if your budget is that high, might as well go for the best, right? :proud:


boulala :
please read my earlier post on transmission oil .... i recommended the torco SGO and torco differential additive


yks228:
mate! why are you using such thick transmission/gear oil??? such thick oil will result in drivetrain power losses due to it's "heavy" nature.
and you should really get an LSD additive into that oil too.

 

[fobs]

Fobs:

You ain't seen my Car Condom yet bro ! it covers your exhaust pipe for spilling too much excess "oil" onto the road

:hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm:

vagabond,

i need your advice..

its time for me to change my engine oil. i'm in dilemma...which one is best suited for DC5?

i. RAVENOL RSS Racing Sport Synto 10W-60, or
ii. Torco SR-1 RACING SAE 20W-50

thanks

u guyz talking abt engine or the ManualTrannyFluid???

 

[bb1-man]

subcon,

they quoted me 2300 for front pair, project miu rotors rated up to 1000 celcius apparently. Im no brake master, but isnt that kinda high? got such thing meh? thought only up to 800 celcius only. and they also claim its okay to use 1000 celcius rotor, with original brake pads OEM. hmmm...

dodgy dodgy.....sounds like salesmen talk to me. so i didnt buy.

Vagabond,

you have PM!!! :)

 

[boulala]

vagabond,
there is 2 type of SGO gear oil one is 75w90 and 75w120. which one si suitable for dc5 lsd.

 

[Vagabond]

boulala :
Go for the lower (lighter) one....
MAKE sure you DONT accidentally get the RGO gear oil, go for SGO (fully syn)
also MAKE sure you get the LSD additive from torco as well, it really helps to lubricate the LSD , *tried and tested by me!*


BB1man:

bro, yes there is such thing as high temp rotors/brake discs.

i'm currently using the J's racing endurance high temp super-taikkyu series, the same one that was used in Japan's Super Taikkyu race.

If you use high temp rotors on oem brake pads, what you're gonna notice is the tendency to get alot of burn marks on your rotors. not to say cannot use, but the squeeling sound and the burn marks ARE very evident. the grip is good though.

high temp rotors & pads are created from doping heat resistant compound into the regular construction material. i've heard some companies use Kevlar (such as EBC) while others use a certain variety of carbon (such as Endless).

me currently using high temp for both rotors and pads ........ LESSON : please DO NOT encounter emergency brakes right infront of your house in the morning ..... really scary


Fobs:
me & subcon are talking about engine oil, but for your information, engine oil is pretty much the same as gear oil, may just need to add LSD additive for lsd's in gearboxes (comonly found in FF layout cars). so it goes for both.

 

[fobs]

oh,.. i know manual TF is not so critical, since itz for lubrication purpose only, tho it affects shifting,... and LSD in ur cases.

abt the engine oil tho',... u guys are using xW50 or 60???
the xW does not matter so much, since we are not in countries having winter,...

but 50 or 60? that is high,... rite?
aren't we supposed to be going in the range of 30 or 40???

pardon me,... me newbie only,...

 

[Vagabond]

fobs:
from what i've gathered, the winter rating determines the viscocity of the oil (thickness)

& the second number determines the heat tolerance.

most of the time, honda engine tends to "burn" engine oil away, but demands of the honda engine, for best performance, to use as light oil as possible. so, in a way, a compromise has to be achieved.