TEAM HP4G (Honda Prelude 4th Generation
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yo brother, working kah?mrbear said:
Guyz,.. i just got a reply from this guy when me and Hisha surfing in ebay and ask this fellow a question becoz he stated the JUN H22A p13 complete ECU ot dual VTEC engagement and thus we are very curious and didn't know got such a thing... so below is his answer.... Opinion form all sifu sifu!!
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vtec is very simple it just kicks in .. solenoid opens allowing oil pressure in a set of pins lock up different valves on the higher cam lobes .. GSR and H22a motors open another set of butterflys in the intake to allow more air .. which is controlled by AIB solenoid
Also shipping is $45 and yes it will work with any h22 engine
Vince B.
[email protected]
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vtec is very simple it just kicks in .. solenoid opens allowing oil pressure in a set of pins lock up different valves on the higher cam lobes .. GSR and H22a motors open another set of butterflys in the intake to allow more air .. which is controlled by AIB solenoid
Also shipping is $45 and yes it will work with any h22 engine
Vince B.
[email protected]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->
hey_guy said:
yeah... hisha....i agree with him... if can combine the fire n words,,, will b very nice... i also which to choose...both also nice...try combine lor...if gotta choose i think i`ll go with the words 1 la....
bryant reporting in !!
btw--> HP4G is my suggestion....hahaha....happy it got chosen....hope u all like it !
saiyuke said:
yeah our p13 ecu has two stages of vtec engagement point. one we cant hear but another is louder which is at 5200rpm.
hey there r a lot of fake chips that claim from spoon or jun. u have to double check n confirm man.... those imitation ones will disable a lot of sensors eg the knock sensor so its not good if ur engine encounters knocking...
Last edited:
JuizeeeBrain said:
Yup.., Jzb, you are rite. There is a lot of imitaion chip claiming is JUN or SPOON. So i also dont dare to trust. But my Jap friend is helping to get an original SPOON Complate ECU (square computer box). If anyone interested, can let me know...
Yzb: Bro, the STR Pro cam gear is very light and thanks. But somehow i think the degree marking is very advance leh... kekekeke coz got no number indication at the degree line, i am not very good at this. Just want to learn more.
You got any info on this ar? Coz when i look at AEM or Skunks2 or HKS, the all got easy degree marking with no. on everyline. But this STR very advance and got no number... you have any idea or not? I goto www.STRpower.com also can't get in. I am worrying the mod guy here donno how to degree the cam.
Sorry to ask stupid question ar.... kekekeke:embaressed_smile: :embaressed_smile: :embaressed_smile:
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How to do it
Step 1. Align the timing sprocket dots for straight up. The cam sprocket dot should be at 6 o'clock and the crank sprocket dot at 12 o'clock high. [This is the easiest way to get the sprockets aligned because they are close to one another. It can als be performed with both at 12 o'clock.] Use a straight edge to help with the alignment. Take your time. When the crank key and sprocket and cam key and sprocket are in proper position slide both toward the engine in matching increments. At some point, the tight fit will require taping with a plastic hammer. Light taps... alternate between the crank and cam gears and avoid hitting the chain. If the gear is too tight a fit to start, heat the gears and chain in the oven. Raising the temperature to 130 degrees will make a big difference. Also, put a light coating of anti-seize on the cam hub and crank hub. This will aid assembly and permit removal if you need to pull the assembly apart to advance or retard the cam.[I used a true roller timing set. with 3 key ways; the sprocket was installed on all three to verify the accuracy of the set. It proved to be accurate on all keyways. I chose the middle keyway to give me the 106 degrees specified by Comp Cams. Note that the 270H and other Comp Cam grinds are manufactured with 4 degrees advance. Lobe separation angle is customarily 110 degrees with these grinds.] Once the sprockets are in place, double check the dot alignment by rotating the crank a few times to verify alignment. If everything checks out, proceed to Step 2.
Step 2. Hook up the Degreeing Wheel. Put TDC at 12 o'clock noon and fasten it on with the crank bolt. Also pick the right timing cover bolt hole to fasten your "coat hanger wire" degreeing wheel pointer. After cutting an appropriate length of wire, sharpen one end on a grinding wheel (or use a file) as this will provide an accurate pointer. Bend the wire so that it is at or near the 1 o'clock position on the crank. With my method, the wire will be repositioned several times. Go to Step 3.
Step 3. The piston stop. If the heads are on the block you must use a piston stop through the spark plug hole on the # 1 cylinder to locate TDC. [A spark plug piston stop requires a different procedure--not described here.] If you are rebuilding your engine or have the heads off so that you can see the pistons, a top of the block piston stop will be requred. These stops can be purchased from Crane, Comp Cams, Jegs, Summit, Powerhouse and local speed shops or simply fabricated from a piece of 3/16 inch steel. The steel strap must have three holes drilled into it. Two at each end to secure it to the head, and one in the middle. The stop will be positioned across the top of the cylinder bore and secured with the 5/8 inch head bolts with locking nuts. A whole in the middle of the strap should be fitted with a smaller bolt, e.g. 1/8 inch bolt with nuts and washers. Position the small bolt so that bolt head will contact the top of the piston. It is wide and will not mar the piston surface. Once the top of the block piston stop is screwed in with the bolt head protruding into the bore you are ready to find top dead center (TDC).
Step 4. Finding TDC. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the piston stops against the bolt head. Next, reposition the wire pointer to TDC on the degreeing wheel. Be accurate. Then, rotate the engine counter-clockwise (opposite direction) until it stops against the bolt head. Examine the pointer and compare it to the numbers embossed on the degreeing wheel. Divide the figure in half. [Example: degree wheel shows 32 degrees. Half of that sum is 16 degrees] Move the pointer to the half way point between the number and TDC on the wheel. [The pointer will be positioned to16 degrees.] Now, if your calculation is correct by turning the crank the opposite direction, clockwise, the stop should be on same number on the other side of TDC. [The piston should stop at 16 degrees]. If the two integers [e.g., 16] are the same you have found TDC. Now, remove the piston stop and turn the crank until TDC on the degreeing wheel aligns with the pointer. Do not disturb the pointer. [I also verified TDC by using a dial indicator on the number 1 cylinder.] Once you are certain that you have located top dead center, proceed to the step 5.
Step 5. Maximum Lift and Intake Centerline. Install an unoiled hydraulic lifter on #1 intake. Set up the dial indicator so that you can measure the amount of lift on the lifter. Everything needs to be perpendicular and properly aligned. The indicator shaft should sit on the lip of the lifter (not in the cup). Once this is properly aligned, rotate the crank clockwise until the lifter is on the bottom (base) of the cam lobe. This is the lowest point so the dial indicator can now be set to 0. Begin rotating the crank until you reach maximum lift (.313 on 270H). At maximum lift, reset the dial indicator to 0. Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction, smoothly and very slowly, stopping at .100" below maximum lift. Now, reverse rotation until the dial indicator reads .050" before maximum lift. Take a reading off the degreeing wheel and mark that number on the wheel (or use masking tape and write it down on the wheel). Continue rotating the crank past maximum lift until you reach .050" below it and stop. [You are taking readings on both sides of the cam lobe.] Read the wheel and note the number of degrees. Take these numbers (example, 1st reading, 62 degrees; second, 150 degrees ) and add them (62+150=212). Divide this number in half (212/2=106) and you will have confirmed the intake centerline (106). [Additional note: Go through this procedure twice to verify your numbers. Accuracy takes practice. For additional information on degreeing cams, consult the cam manufacture's degreeing instructions.]
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0310_deg/ (try this got pic)
Step 1. Align the timing sprocket dots for straight up. The cam sprocket dot should be at 6 o'clock and the crank sprocket dot at 12 o'clock high. [This is the easiest way to get the sprockets aligned because they are close to one another. It can als be performed with both at 12 o'clock.] Use a straight edge to help with the alignment. Take your time. When the crank key and sprocket and cam key and sprocket are in proper position slide both toward the engine in matching increments. At some point, the tight fit will require taping with a plastic hammer. Light taps... alternate between the crank and cam gears and avoid hitting the chain. If the gear is too tight a fit to start, heat the gears and chain in the oven. Raising the temperature to 130 degrees will make a big difference. Also, put a light coating of anti-seize on the cam hub and crank hub. This will aid assembly and permit removal if you need to pull the assembly apart to advance or retard the cam.[I used a true roller timing set. with 3 key ways; the sprocket was installed on all three to verify the accuracy of the set. It proved to be accurate on all keyways. I chose the middle keyway to give me the 106 degrees specified by Comp Cams. Note that the 270H and other Comp Cam grinds are manufactured with 4 degrees advance. Lobe separation angle is customarily 110 degrees with these grinds.] Once the sprockets are in place, double check the dot alignment by rotating the crank a few times to verify alignment. If everything checks out, proceed to Step 2.
Step 2. Hook up the Degreeing Wheel. Put TDC at 12 o'clock noon and fasten it on with the crank bolt. Also pick the right timing cover bolt hole to fasten your "coat hanger wire" degreeing wheel pointer. After cutting an appropriate length of wire, sharpen one end on a grinding wheel (or use a file) as this will provide an accurate pointer. Bend the wire so that it is at or near the 1 o'clock position on the crank. With my method, the wire will be repositioned several times. Go to Step 3.
Step 3. The piston stop. If the heads are on the block you must use a piston stop through the spark plug hole on the # 1 cylinder to locate TDC. [A spark plug piston stop requires a different procedure--not described here.] If you are rebuilding your engine or have the heads off so that you can see the pistons, a top of the block piston stop will be requred. These stops can be purchased from Crane, Comp Cams, Jegs, Summit, Powerhouse and local speed shops or simply fabricated from a piece of 3/16 inch steel. The steel strap must have three holes drilled into it. Two at each end to secure it to the head, and one in the middle. The stop will be positioned across the top of the cylinder bore and secured with the 5/8 inch head bolts with locking nuts. A whole in the middle of the strap should be fitted with a smaller bolt, e.g. 1/8 inch bolt with nuts and washers. Position the small bolt so that bolt head will contact the top of the piston. It is wide and will not mar the piston surface. Once the top of the block piston stop is screwed in with the bolt head protruding into the bore you are ready to find top dead center (TDC).
Step 4. Finding TDC. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the piston stops against the bolt head. Next, reposition the wire pointer to TDC on the degreeing wheel. Be accurate. Then, rotate the engine counter-clockwise (opposite direction) until it stops against the bolt head. Examine the pointer and compare it to the numbers embossed on the degreeing wheel. Divide the figure in half. [Example: degree wheel shows 32 degrees. Half of that sum is 16 degrees] Move the pointer to the half way point between the number and TDC on the wheel. [The pointer will be positioned to16 degrees.] Now, if your calculation is correct by turning the crank the opposite direction, clockwise, the stop should be on same number on the other side of TDC. [The piston should stop at 16 degrees]. If the two integers [e.g., 16] are the same you have found TDC. Now, remove the piston stop and turn the crank until TDC on the degreeing wheel aligns with the pointer. Do not disturb the pointer. [I also verified TDC by using a dial indicator on the number 1 cylinder.] Once you are certain that you have located top dead center, proceed to the step 5.
Step 5. Maximum Lift and Intake Centerline. Install an unoiled hydraulic lifter on #1 intake. Set up the dial indicator so that you can measure the amount of lift on the lifter. Everything needs to be perpendicular and properly aligned. The indicator shaft should sit on the lip of the lifter (not in the cup). Once this is properly aligned, rotate the crank clockwise until the lifter is on the bottom (base) of the cam lobe. This is the lowest point so the dial indicator can now be set to 0. Begin rotating the crank until you reach maximum lift (.313 on 270H). At maximum lift, reset the dial indicator to 0. Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction, smoothly and very slowly, stopping at .100" below maximum lift. Now, reverse rotation until the dial indicator reads .050" before maximum lift. Take a reading off the degreeing wheel and mark that number on the wheel (or use masking tape and write it down on the wheel). Continue rotating the crank past maximum lift until you reach .050" below it and stop. [You are taking readings on both sides of the cam lobe.] Read the wheel and note the number of degrees. Take these numbers (example, 1st reading, 62 degrees; second, 150 degrees ) and add them (62+150=212). Divide this number in half (212/2=106) and you will have confirmed the intake centerline (106). [Additional note: Go through this procedure twice to verify your numbers. Accuracy takes practice. For additional information on degreeing cams, consult the cam manufacture's degreeing instructions.]
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0310_deg/ (try this got pic)
i try to get it but i think bear's piece is of information is more than sufficient.... hahaha professor bear....saiyuke said:
Thanks bear.... useful tips but i wasn't talking about that... kekekekeke
Look at the photos:
http://www.extreme-motor.com/images/graphics/Picture247.jpg
http://www.extreme-motor.com/images/graphics/Picture248.jpg
As you guys can see, normally those line will have degree no. but this one is very special and got no marking of how many degree.... plus it have so many lines and much wider then others adjustable cams... I am still searching for answer on how does they do the tuning of degree using this cam gears.
:confused_smile: :confused_smile:
Look at the photos:
http://www.extreme-motor.com/images/graphics/Picture247.jpg
http://www.extreme-motor.com/images/graphics/Picture248.jpg
As you guys can see, normally those line will have degree no. but this one is very special and got no marking of how many degree.... plus it have so many lines and much wider then others adjustable cams... I am still searching for answer on how does they do the tuning of degree using this cam gears.
:confused_smile: :confused_smile:
mrbear said:
i got it already... thanks.
i found out that skunk2 also don;t have the marking one, i wonder....saiyuke said:
i believe experienced tuners will know how to adjust.
I vote for that CF too, but can do some changing on that?! "The Gang" can change to "The Team", i think like this sound more nice :) coz is "TEAM HP4G". One more suggestion why dont the black color background we change it to "Carbon Fibre" background looks more cool le :_: . No hard feelings, just my personal opinion.
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