Need advice: 4g93 SOHC auto 'semput'

[sanekit]

Why hilo only, should save and go full adjustable......

it was a spur of the moment decision. haha! it's supposed to be hilo soft/hard with body shift. but the soft hard they said need to adjust on the spring lock. no top click etc. wanted to get HWL but this would do for now.

 

[vr2turbo]

it was a spur of the moment decision. haha! it's supposed to be hilo soft/hard with body shift. but the soft hard they said need to adjust on the spring lock. no top click etc. wanted to get HWL but this would do for now.

hilo using spring tension to adjust height, with soft hard can adjust spring tension and height separately, then also have damping rate

 

[sanekit]

hilo using spring tension to adjust height, with soft hard can adjust spring tension and height separately, then also have damping rate

Yeah. i googled how it works but with body shift function on the Mines, I can adjust the spring tension and set the height from the body shift function. only downside is i have to make do with the spring damping rate. if want it to be softer, i have to change the springs. currently on 6k front and 4k rear which is not that hard at the moment. a few bounce due to the low adjustment i think. will see if i can get a good setup tomorrow.

 

[Izso]

eh? i don't need more fuel? :hmmmm: ok. just PNP and ecu rechip then. haha. btw, just changed ori suspension to mines hilo body shift coilovers. got it for RM820 with GST from sato auto. i know HWL is the best but don't have the budget for that. the half cut front left suspension was sagging by 1inch compared to the right side and both was getting a bit stiffer.

so far need to raise the coilover a bit coz after I install it last saturday, car height now 1 and half finger front and back from 2 fingers front and back. haven't done alignment yet so tomorrow morning gonna ask the guy to setup again and do alignment.

Dude... you should come out meet the gang sometime so we can poison you some more.

As for your suspension, Hi/Lo means you can only play around with the spring tension (pre-load) to fiddle with the soft/hard aspect of your car (sort of). This is where a good installer comes in handy. They know how much pre-load to set on the springs to get the optimum performance out of it and if done right, even hi/lo can feel comfortable. If you don't know what pre-load is and since I'm feeling a little bored in the office let me explain :

'bodyshift' - refers to the height adjustment of the suspension without putting any load on the springs. Meaning the springs are not compressed to adjust the height of the suspension. Meaning the body of the absorber itself is moving.

'pre-load' - refers to how much compression you're applying to the springs when installing them. Depending on the spring itself, a pre-loaded spring may react faster as compared to it sitting freely without any load.

The advantages to a bodyshift is you don't sacrifice spring compression for height adjustment and you get to play around with the pre-load of the springs.

And you're seriously mistaken if you think HWL is the 'best'. It's just 'one of the brands' available in Malaysia. There's FTuned, PRS, GAB, BC Racing, AR Racing, Titan, Koni, Bilstein, Aragosta, Improve, Ohlins, etc.

Personally having tried a few brands, among the 'budget' ones I'd go for PRS, BC Racing and AR Racing (the 2 are essentially the same just different brands, PRS does custom jobs). Then if I had the budget I'd consider FTuned, Koni or Bilstein. Then if I were printing money I'd go for Ohlins.

So no HWL isn't the 'best', just one of the brands out there.

And no you don't need extra fueling. An underutilized injector will fail faster than one that's used 50-80% of the time. Besides, why bother upgrading the injectors if your pump is stock?

 

[sanekit]

Dude... you should come out meet the gang sometime so we can poison you some more.

As for your suspension, Hi/Lo means you can only play around with the spring tension (pre-load) to fiddle with the soft/hard aspect of your car (sort of). This is where a good installer comes in handy. They know how much pre-load to set on the springs to get the optimum performance out of it and if done right, even hi/lo can feel comfortable. If you don't know what pre-load is and since I'm feeling a little bored in the office let me explain :

'bodyshift' - refers to the height adjustment of the suspension without putting any load on the springs. Meaning the springs are not compressed to adjust the height of the suspension. Meaning the body of the absorber itself is moving.

'pre-load' - refers to how much compression you're applying to the springs when installing them. Depending on the spring itself, a pre-loaded spring may react faster as compared to it sitting freely without any load.

The advantages to a bodyshift is you don't sacrifice spring compression for height adjustment and you get to play around with the pre-load of the springs.

And you're seriously mistaken if you think HWL is the 'best'. It's just 'one of the brands' available in Malaysia. There's FTuned, PRS, GAB, BC Racing, AR Racing, Titan, Koni, Bilstein, Aragosta, Improve, Ohlins, etc.

Personally having tried a few brands, among the 'budget' ones I'd go for PRS, BC Racing and AR Racing (the 2 are essentially the same just different brands, PRS does custom jobs). Then if I had the budget I'd consider FTuned, Koni or Bilstein. Then if I were printing money I'd go for Ohlins.

So no HWL isn't the 'best', just one of the brands out there.

And no you don't need extra fueling. An underutilized injector will fail faster than one that's used 50-80% of the time. Besides, why bother upgrading the injectors if your pump is stock?

I'm keeping an eye on the TT threads. hehe. HWL is more a less around RM1.3k-1.5k which is not that expensive and does it's job when it comes to soft/hard adjustment. But I don't have the budget for that. So, I opted for Mines (i think it's not the real 'Mines') coilovers. Box says it's distributed by RS One.

Regarding the TB and injectors, I thought since I'm doing PNP, might as well let the car have more fuel with bigger TB and larger injectors. Hehe. Nevertheless, just gonna go slow on the performance upgrades. Motorsport cost a lot moolah...

 

[Shinjite]

I'm keeping an eye on the TT threads. hehe. HWL is more a less around RM1.3k-1.5k which is not that expensive and does it's job when it comes to soft/hard adjustment. But I don't have the budget for that. So, I opted for Mines (i think it's not the real 'Mines') coilovers. Box says it's distributed by RS One.

Regarding the TB and injectors, I thought since I'm doing PNP, might as well let the car have more fuel with bigger TB and larger injectors. Hehe. Nevertheless, just gonna go slow on the performance upgrades. Motorsport cost a lot moolah...

FYI, the Mine's that you bought is Locally made. Anyway.....regarding the fueling like what bro Iszo mentioned, injectors upgrades you don't really need it even after you did the ported cylinder head. You won't even get to max out your injectors.

My old 1.6 SOHC 4G92p, with 125whp also I didn't get to max out my stock 182cc injectors and still using stock fuel pump and fuel regulator (cylinder head ported, matspeed 280 cams, adjustable cam pulley and lighten crank pulley with drop in air filter)

 

[Izso]

I'm keeping an eye on the TT threads. hehe. HWL is more a less around RM1.3k-1.5k which is not that expensive and does it's job when it comes to soft/hard adjustment. But I don't have the budget for that. So, I opted for Mines (i think it's not the real 'Mines') coilovers. Box says it's distributed by RS One.

Regarding the TB and injectors, I thought since I'm doing PNP, might as well let the car have more fuel with bigger TB and larger injectors. Hehe. Nevertheless, just gonna go slow on the performance upgrades. Motorsport cost a lot moolah...

Mines doesn't make for Proton cars. So yours is probably made in some random Gombak factory like GAB, BC Racing and AR Racing. But as long as it has warranty, you're fine. RS One is a pretty popular name distributing a lot of these things. You should be ok.

As for modding costing a lot of money - yes only if you're randomly buying stuff like the way you're doing it now. If you go straight and buy the right things at one go, you'll be fine. TB and injectors are the last things you can mod la. More fuel and more air but your fuel mapping is stock, ECU can't register all the extra air and fueling, also no point la. Yours is MMC, MMC is pretty dumb. If it were the Siemens then it'll be able to adapt and utilize the extra everything. You need to tell the MMC what to do (which is why modders like it so much).

When you do the overhaul, just consider an aggressive skim and get a spare head to do all these extra mods. If in the event you want to sell the car, you can revert back to stock and sell the modded head for $.

 

[Shinjite]

Mines doesn't make for Proton cars. So yours is probably made in some random Gombak factory like GAB, BC Racing and AR Racing. But as long as it has warranty, you're fine. RS One is a pretty popular name distributing a lot of these things. You should be ok.

As for modding costing a lot of money - yes only if you're randomly buying stuff like the way you're doing it now. If you go straight and buy the right things at one go, you'll be fine. TB and injectors are the last things you can mod la. More fuel and more air but your fuel mapping is stock, ECU can't register all the extra air and fueling, also no point la. Yours is MMC, MMC is pretty dumb. If it were the Siemens then it'll be able to adapt and utilize the extra everything. You need to tell the MMC what to do (which is why modders like it so much).

When you do the overhaul, just consider an aggressive skim and get a spare head to do all these extra mods. If in the event you want to sell the car, you can revert back to stock and sell the modded head for $.

I would like to add, this goes to the fuel pump as well. I see most people like to mod their fuel pump thinking they can get extra power due to more fueling which is not entirely true hence a waste of money.

 

[sanekit]

Mines doesn't make for Proton cars. So yours is probably made in some random Gombak factory like GAB, BC Racing and AR Racing. But as long as it has warranty, you're fine. RS One is a pretty popular name distributing a lot of these things. You should be ok.

As for modding costing a lot of money - yes only if you're randomly buying stuff like the way you're doing it now. If you go straight and buy the right things at one go, you'll be fine. TB and injectors are the last things you can mod la. More fuel and more air but your fuel mapping is stock, ECU can't register all the extra air and fueling, also no point la. Yours is MMC, MMC is pretty dumb. If it were the Siemens then it'll be able to adapt and utilize the extra everything. You need to tell the MMC what to do (which is why modders like it so much).

When you do the overhaul, just consider an aggressive skim and get a spare head to do all these extra mods. If in the event you want to sell the car, you can revert back to stock and sell the modded head for $.

More money to buy the head. Haha! So, i just buy empty half cut single cam head and ask the guy to skim it? Do i need to change the piston or just use the stock? And what's price for head kosong and where to get it? :hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

More money to buy the head. Haha! So, i just buy empty half cut single cam head and ask the guy to skim it? Do i need to change the piston or just use the stock? And what's price for head kosong and where to get it? :hmmmm:

It's sort of an investment and it also makes your life easier. Go to any halfcut shop with a friend who knows his 4G93 sohc stuff. Buy a 4G93 SOHC head (shouldn't be more than RM300 max) with the valves, springs, and all in side. Then when you're ready to PNP and all, just send in spare head for PNP and skimming job. The valves and all just keep as spare or when you do the overhaul can choose the better condition one.

When the head is ready, just buy the overhaul kit and go find a mechanic. A ready head, ready overhaul kit and just swap out the newly modded head with your current one (which you'll just keep in storage).

But that's only if you're looking to mod. If you'd not gonna mod don't bother buy another head la.

 

[sanekit]

It's sort of an investment and it also makes your life easier. Go to any halfcut shop with a friend who knows his 4G93 sohc stuff. Buy a 4G93 SOHC head (shouldn't be more than RM300 max) with the valves, springs, and all in side. Then when you're ready to PNP and all, just send in spare head for PNP and skimming job. The valves and all just keep as spare or when you do the overhaul can choose the better condition one.

When the head is ready, just buy the overhaul kit and go find a mechanic. A ready head, ready overhaul kit and just swap out the newly modded head with your current one (which you'll just keep in storage).

But that's only if you're looking to mod. If you'd not gonna mod don't bother buy another head la.

Awesome! I'll get the head ready before i go for top overhaul. Thanks for tip. If not, i would've just do the mod current head. Haha

 

[vr2turbo]

I would like to add, this goes to the fuel pump as well. I see most people like to mod their fuel pump thinking they can get extra power due to more fueling which is not entirely true hence a waste of money.

Yup, they think the stronger the pressure, more fuel suppose to be forced in .....lol

 

[sanekit]

A bit excited to start on the head project but need to draft my budget properly. Don't want to buy unnecessary stuff again. haha! If I change my extractor and piping, is it gonna have any improvement with my standard s-flow twin tip muffler? Thought of changing the plug cables as well. NGK Hyper Silicone is better than BOSCH Super Sport right? Also, can I use any rechip/mod/flash ECU on my car or I can only use specifically ECU for 4G93 SOHC n/a auto trans?

 

[Izso]

The head job is gonna cost an arm and leg but it'll give you the most gains. Valve seats, valves, valve springs, PNP, skim (consider an aggressive skim), head gasket, piston rings, aircon belt, water pump, timing belt, oil pump, change all of these things one go since everything is coming out anyway. This will set you back a months salary plus your incidentals and obligations (I'm guessing your salary to be 4-5k).

Exhaust probably should be the last thing you mod. That's my opinion anyway.

You'd be surprised but stock Bougicord brand plug cables are actually quite good. Otherwise consider cables that actually make a difference like the iBest cables that I reviewed sometime ago. Best cables I've ever used that actually can be felt. Otherwise the MSD ones are good too. But honestly - stock Bougicord is good enough (unless your stock ones aren't stock or are frayed).

ECU wise this is going to be a long conversation. I know a guy who does reflashing of ECUs and repairing of Haltechs and all that. If you want I can find out more info from him to see if your ECU is flashable or not, it'll be the cheapest option amongst all the ECU mods you want to do. Standalone is probably the best but most expensive. Honestly - forget about piggybacks if your ECU is flashable.

Also, learn to adjust the timing on your own car.

 

[Shinjite]

The head job is gonna cost an arm and leg but it'll give you the most gains. Valve seats, valves, valve springs, PNP, skim (consider an aggressive skim), head gasket, piston rings, aircon belt, water pump, timing belt, oil pump, change all of these things one go since everything is coming out anyway. This will set you back a months salary plus your incidentals and obligations (I'm guessing your salary to be 4-5k).

Exhaust probably should be the last thing you mod. That's my opinion anyway.

You'd be surprised but stock Bougicord brand plug cables are actually quite good. Otherwise consider cables that actually make a difference like the iBest cables that I reviewed sometime ago. Best cables I've ever used that actually can be felt. Otherwise the MSD ones are good too. But honestly - stock Bougicord is good enough (unless your stock ones aren't stock or are frayed).

ECU wise this is going to be a long conversation. I know a guy who does reflashing of ECUs and repairing of Haltechs and all that. If you want I can find out more info from him to see if your ECU is flashable or not, it'll be the cheapest option amongst all the ECU mods you want to do. Standalone is probably the best but most expensive. Honestly - forget about piggybacks if your ECU is flashable.

Also, learn to adjust the timing on your own car.

sanekit, do you know where your ECU is located? To check whether your ECU can be reflash or not, have a look at the cover of the ECU itself where the labels states your ECU code and etc etc. Look at the bottom right, if there is a letter 'E' then it is reflashable

 

[sanekit]

The head job is gonna cost an arm and leg but it'll give you the most gains. Valve seats, valves, valve springs, PNP, skim (consider an aggressive skim), head gasket, piston rings, aircon belt, water pump, timing belt, oil pump, change all of these things one go since everything is coming out anyway. This will set you back a months salary plus your incidentals and obligations (I'm guessing your salary to be 4-5k).

Exhaust probably should be the last thing you mod. That's my opinion anyway.

You'd be surprised but stock Bougicord brand plug cables are actually quite good. Otherwise consider cables that actually make a difference like the iBest cables that I reviewed sometime ago. Best cables I've ever used that actually can be felt. Otherwise the MSD ones are good too. But honestly - stock Bougicord is good enough (unless your stock ones aren't stock or are frayed).

ECU wise this is going to be a long conversation. I know a guy who does reflashing of ECUs and repairing of Haltechs and all that. If you want I can find out more info from him to see if your ECU is flashable or not, it'll be the cheapest option amongst all the ECU mods you want to do. Standalone is probably the best but most expensive. Honestly - forget about piggybacks if your ECU is flashable.

Also, learn to adjust the timing on your own car.

My salary is less than 4k. Haha. Slow steps then. Find the head first, then find workshop to do PNP and skim. And then buy all the important stuff you mentioned. This is gonna be a slow project then.

For plug cables, the engine already at 119k mileage when I got it. Australian halfcut. So I guess need to change it. Workshop that did the transplant change the timing belt (that's what they told me). I can get those Bougicord from local spare part shop here right?

sanekit, do you know where your ECU is located? To check whether your ECU can be reflash or not, have a look at the cover of the ECU itself where the labels states your ECU code and etc etc. Look at the bottom right, if there is a letter 'E' then it is reflashable

Yeah. I know where the ECU is. Need to remove the dashboard compartment and see if I can get my phone in there and take picture. If not, can I get any other ECU to do the mod?

 

[vr2turbo]

ECU not cheap leh......

 

[sanekit]

ECU not cheap leh......

saw a few half cut ecu on mudah selling from RM100-300.

cheap - http://www.mudah.my/Ecu-44025365.htm
RM500 nego 4g93 sohc - http://www.mudah.my/Ecu+lancer+1+8+4g93+soch+single+cam-39412031.htm

 

[Shinjite]

Yup ECU not cheap when it can be reflashed :)

 

[sanekit]

Yup ECU not cheap when it can be reflashed :)

Ok. ECU last thing on the list. If say that my ECU can be reflash, is it gonna be a waste to reflash it? Or can it be reversible?