Modding A 4g93 N/A Engine...Give ur comments pls ppl

niceputera,

thanks for helping n sharing those above,i need to ask for your personal exp for stuff's done such as below:-

1)How was the diff after p n p?...was it more of pick up or higher top-speeds?
2)Was the torque higher bcos of h/comp/pistons?ans is it satria 1.6 pistons or mivec's?
3)J5 chip...performance chip?or?
4)Was there a diff felt on gas pedal with fixing of a r/regulator?

Sorry,but just so curious on these as above...thnx for the help again.
 
satria81 said:
niceputera,

thanks for helping n sharing those above,i need to ask for your personal exp for stuff's done such as below:-

1)How was the diff after p n p?...was it more of pick up or higher top-speeds?
2)Was the torque higher bcos of h/comp/pistons?ans is it satria 1.6 pistons or mivec's?
3)J5 chip...performance chip?or?
4)Was there a diff felt on gas pedal with fixing of a r/regulator?

Sorry,but just so curious on these as above...thnx for the help again.

Satria81,

1)p&P - You'll gain both if the correct technique being applied. But if u over polished it by more than 1mm ( non experience mechanic always do this) youl'll gain top speed but you'll lose pick up at all.

2)The torque was high because all the components work together. There is no such thing as 1 specific component can boost torque. The pistons were satria 1.6 pistons. Mivec pistons will give u CR of 12.0:1 and eventhough it will be good for a bit more overall power, you'll have to be more conservative with you timing since it will prone more to knocking.

3)J5 - is the programmable chip by Matspeed that can control / change the air fuel ratio and the ignition timing of the engine.

4)I use the f/regulator to compensate a little for the shortage supply of the existing / std injector. If u reach this level, there is no more thoughts of " can adjust / play around with f/r for better pick up etc etc" - that phrase is limited only to those that do not serious to build up their engine.

Satria81, If u really serious to build an engine - any engine - than you must plan on how to go about. U must alway remember, an engine will only yeild good power if all the components can work together in harmony. Harmony is the key word.

I give u an example. U build ur intake, head, internal components but u still use std exhaust piping. Where can all of the power that is being produced in the engine transferred to? Yes it will go through the std exhaust but the std piping is only meant for std exhaust. With a modified engine, the total gas volume and velocity is so much greater than the std engine. Because of this, the std piping cannot channel all the gas in the most efficient way thus will results in some of the gas to stuck inside the engine. What will be the cause of this? It will create back pressure in the engine. And because it is creating a back pressure, the engine cannot inhale the large amount of fresh air to the head because the existing air / petrol mixure that has been burned out cannot be channelled out from the head. And because the head cannot inhale the required fresh air, the fresh air petrol mixture that get into the combustion chamber is less than ideal. Less than ideal - it means less power & tork.

That is why u can see why people mods their engine and getting less power than std or higher power than std but much lesser than their predicted power for that exact mods being carry out. Remember the key word - harmony.

Rgds.

Note: U eat, u defecate. U eat more, you need to defecate more, right? That is the simple way to describe it.
 
Nizeputra,,

How about your ignition timing setup ? wanna share with me:regular_smile: How much advance you can run with your setup now until the engine "ping" ? You set distributor timing at which degree now ??

FYI our race car have approx. 14.1 compression with 0.5 gasket. Running Mivec 1.8 with 83 pistons, with a full 118 (perhaps more like 110) octane petrol (bought it from J.B dealer). Our problem is engine pinging,,,any insight to minimize this problem:Not_Impressed:
 
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V8_nutter said:
Nizeputra,,

How about your ignition timing setup ? wanna share with me:regular_smile: How much advance you can run with your setup now until the engine "ping" ? You set distributor timing at which degree now ??

FYI our race car have approx. 14.1 compression with 0.5 gasket. Running Mivec 1.8 with 83 pistons, with a full 118 (perhaps more like 110) octane petrol (bought it from J.B dealer). Our problem is engine pinging,,,any insight to minimize this problem:Not_Impressed:



I'm not really sure what was the exact timing of my engine. I started the timing at a modest 15 than started to increase it. You see, the cam pulley adjustment took me nearly 2 hours for each out of 4 full dyno sessions. And then Charlie tuned it again on the road for several days. So I don't have a real clue but I think it was close to 28.

I did experinced knocking on my tuning sessions. But it has been minimised by using cold air intake & retarding abit the timing. But of course I was using 98 Ron. BUt for your case have you ever consider to run dry ice on your race car? If not maybe you can try to run with it and tune it again. As u might already know, a cooler air will resist/lower knocking effect plus increasing the power due to more oxigen molecul in it. Dry ice normally can stand for about 2 hours and if it is properly pack and covered from the engine heat under the hood, it can last for almost 4 hours. I've seen several racing teams in US and Europe applying this technique to boost their overall power (and to prevent knocking).

Sorry coz not being specific about the timing because it was quite some time already. I've left the mods scene for more than a year already. Nice talking to u.

Rgds.

Note: Links Sunway also sells 110 race gas same as used for JGTC. Can ask them. Johor quite far la.
 
niceputera,

Thanks for givin me a real good anwser's as for my 4 questions..ur been so very helpful.

A few more doubts...so wanna ask:-

1)about the pistons...at ur personal view,do u think the satria 1.6 or OEM Mivec pistons would be better as in for the delivery of power?
2)As for the J5 chip,i guess thats only to be applied on a GTi ecu box cos it has a slot ...how bout if i were to use the 97 Putra ecu with code bearing-5537?which has no slot to remove chip...
3)My car was originally a 1.6(manual) and im still using the same old fuel pump...will this course a diff compared to a ori 4g93p fuel pump or is it the same?
4)Otherwise,What do u think are the benefits of adjusting the throttle position which is on the t/body.....i mean the BLACK thingy with size 8 screw if im not wrong..will it make any significant diff at all?
5)Im also running on a 1.6 4g92p gearbox n flywheel..is there a lot of diff in the ratio?

Bro,sorry again for all these q's asked...hoping for ur comments on it....thnx, a lot!
 
have u guys try toyota 4age 20v silver top /black top piston into 4g93 block...
we have try to mod a few and getting satified respond..
but needed mod the conrod pin to fit the piston..
same diameter of piston but higher compression...
and it's can save budget
cheers..just my 2 cents
 
Daihatsu Mira,

Whats the engine c.c of the toyota 4age 20v silver top /black,im totally empty on toyota's....and also whats the cost of a set of these pistons...otherwise,thanks for the try-to-help.
 
Love your tourque figures though."

Thanks. It was like driving a modded 2.5 six cylinder engine. Try driving 325 but with 1150kg instead 1500kg and you'll understand the response and the pulling power.

I've ran 300m with a putra that was specially prepared for drag. The car best scored at Sepang was 13.7 sec with fully striped car and slick tyre. I ran with just carbon fibre bonnet minus the car jack tools. Everything else std ( I was using evo 3 caliper and disk someore..heheh) and I comfortably at the back of the car bumper from start to finish. Oh yea I was using 195/15/50 Bridgestone G3 only. Was they impressed? U can count on it.

Many said 4g93p is not good. I said they have yet to discover the right way to tune it.

Rgds.


hehehhe it was an awkward moment for people kekekekekkekeke even the mechaninc of the putra...

p/s: sell every thing already got the car u wanted me to asked is an ori car n cost a bomb...check ur pm niceputera
 
satria81 said:
niceputera,

Thanks for givin me a real good anwser's as for my 4 questions..ur been so very helpful.

A few more doubts...so wanna ask:-

1)about the pistons...at ur personal view,do u think the satria 1.6 or OEM Mivec pistons would be better as in for the delivery of power?
2)As for the J5 chip,i guess thats only to be applied on a GTi ecu box cos it has a slot ...how bout if i were to use the 97 Putra ecu with code bearing-5537?which has no slot to remove chip...
3)My car was originally a 1.6(manual) and im still using the same old fuel pump...will this course a diff compared to a ori 4g93p fuel pump or is it the same?
4)Otherwise,What do u think are the benefits of adjusting the throttle position which is on the t/body.....i mean the BLACK thingy with size 8 screw if im not wrong..will it make any significant diff at all?
5)Im also running on a 1.6 4g92p gearbox n flywheel..is there a lot of diff in the ratio?

Bro,sorry again for all these q's asked...hoping for ur comments on it....thnx, a lot!

My answer:

1) Both are good. Satria 's will be safer in terms of timing setting. Mivec's will need you to careful a bit and are prone more to knocking. Whatever u do, try not to exceed 12.0:1 CR. Generally, that is the limit of Ron 98. OEM Satria piston has several designs as well. Look same but it's not. Choose wisely.

2) J5 - u need to refer this matter to Matspeed. My personal opinion it cannot be done. Not necessarily to use J5 - e-manage, Unichip, Smt6, Obit are all good. Just find a good tuner to tune it for u. A piggyback / standalone is only as good as the tuner - if u get what I mean.

3) I'm not sure about the fuel pump capacity. But in general, if u do not increase the std factory fuel pressure level, than it still can withstand the increase in power. Fuel pump max. operating capacity is highly depending on the fuel pressure. The more pressure being applied, the less max HP it can withstand. With std setting, '93p fuel pump can support up to 300bhp power.

MY advice, do not change it yet. U (or ur dyno operator) will know when the is shortage of fuel from the dyno reading. 1st thing to do is to change the injector to 1+ size rather than to go for the fuel pump (assuming u can mod ur car to more than 250bhp if not leave it alone :regular_smile: ). The factory part is quite good already.

4) No benefit, just concentrate on the REAL things.

5) Ratio 1-5 same as SGTi/Putra/1.5. Final drive I'm not sure. I've forgotten. Maybe somebody else can help.

Rgds.
 
niceputera said:
My answer:


5) Ratio 1-5 same as SGTi/Putra/1.5. Final drive I'm not sure. I've forgotten. Maybe somebody else can help.

Rgds.

if not mistaken 4.3
 
malyadayada said:
hehehhe it was an awkward moment for people kekekekekkekeke even the mechaninc of the putra...

p/s: sell every thing already got the car u wanted me to asked is an ori car n cost a bomb...check ur pm niceputera

Yup, I wish I have the money to buy an M3. Because it is so, than I guess I just build one hehehe... :regular_smile:
 
kekkekeke take it easy bro...
u can make it man.....
it's been a while saw ur post ....
nice of u to share ur mods.....
need to know the place of ur valve job ....
 
malyadayada said:
kekkekeke take it easy bro...
u can make it man.....
it's been a while saw ur post ....
nice of u to share ur mods.....
need to know the place of ur valve job ....

Can no problem. Ipoh mali tatak sombong hahah..
 
hello niceputera,

"Dyno tuning at Links Sunway revealed two power figures (depending whether I go for tork or bhp):

High Tork - 140WHP @ 7100 +-
- 210Nm @ 5000+-

High Power - 160WHP @ 7200+-
- 160Nm @ 5500+-"

i noticed the rpm is 100rpm difference and why do u have 2 different runs when they can cross hp and torque together? based on the 2 results, at which point do you shift to the max at your own preference?

thx
 
210Nm of torque is really very impressive......tats equal to B20B Vtec's torque figures already.....!!!...hahaha....btw niceputera, do u mean tat u did ur 3 angle valve job in Ipoh.....?.....mine telling me where's the workshop....?....interested ler....thx dude....
 
J101 said:
hello niceputera,

"Dyno tuning at Links Sunway revealed two power figures (depending whether I go for tork or bhp):

High Tork - 140WHP @ 7100 +-
- 210Nm @ 5000+-

High Power - 160WHP @ 7200+-
- 160Nm @ 5500+-"

i noticed the rpm is 100rpm difference and why do u have 2 different runs when they can cross hp and torque together? based on the 2 results, at which point do you shift to the max at your own preference?

thx

The 2 diff runs were different in timing and valve overlaping. It can't be cross as simple as you mentioned.

I normally shift at less than 7300rpm depend on the corner layout. At straight line I'll go max at 7200rpm. Cut off at 7500. No point rev higher than that coz no add power available after that point.
 
wah..a lot of information la this thread.. really good la...satria81,we are in the same boat..i just bought a putra and planning to modify it..after reading this thread, i can finally get the picture on how to mod my car,coz it totally different from my last car which was eg..

niceputra,can wanna invite u for a drink or two la..wanna gain more information la..

rgrds
 
spyderslr said:
210Nm of torque is really very impressive......tats equal to B20B Vtec's torque figures already.....!!!...hahaha....btw niceputera, do u mean tat u did ur 3 angle valve job in Ipoh.....?.....mine telling me where's the workshop....?....interested ler....thx dude....

Yes I did it in Ipoh. It's located in an industrial area. It's on the way to Kampar (if I'm not mistaken). I do not know the name of the shop but I do know how to get there.

The shop specialize in reconditioning car, lorry (big lorry I mean) by way of government tender. They're so specialize. 1 person does the valve job, 1 person does the pnp, another person handle the rebore and sleeve area, micro polishing etc etc. BUT they do not know what is 3 angle valve job is (the term). I had to give them the exact intructions on how to do it. But because they have a very good basic skill, the job done satisfactorily. U'll be impressed with their job quality level - very high . Take pnp example, I've been and seen to Amoil, Powerzone, Matspeed, Active (no more nowdays) and several other big names in M'sia - none of them can beat the workmanship level of this shop. Call me liar, call me exggerate the fact but I've been there, saw it, done it and it worked.

Maybe 1 day when I go back to my hometown, I can guide u there. :regular_smile:
 
Spoon))) said:
wah..a lot of information la this thread.. really good la...satria81,we are in the same boat..i just bought a putra and planning to modify it..after reading this thread, i can finally get the picture on how to mod my car,coz it totally different from my last car which was eg..

niceputra,can wanna invite u for a drink or two la..wanna gain more information la..

rgrds

Actually, not that much diff in principle. Any engine will follow the same principle on how to go about to make it more efficient. I mean any head can use a pnp right? U got my point - I hope :regular_smile: .

I'm always on the move. I went for out station quite frequent nowdays. But sure if the time is right we can have a chat no problem. It's nice to have new friend to share info from both parties. I might be learning new things from u too.:regular_smile:
 
niceputera: so u r from ipoh....?......i only goes bak to ipoh once in a while....actually i have limited knowledge on valve angle jobs....would like to know more tho....cant really seem to understand the function of doin a valve angle job and also how its been done......do u Port it....?...or Polish it....?...or reshape it to various angles...??.....hope u can enlighten me abit....thx....cheerzzz
 

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